I was givin a 350 high nickel/tin block bored .+030, true decked, O-ringed, aligned bored mains, block filled 2/3 with block filler, reworked lifter valley oil returens (all holes plugged except the front/timing oil holes and they have been enlarged), notched for stroker crank, and block deburred. The owner decieded to go with an all aluminum block. I don't have a race car, and thought about making a serious street engine for something???? The guy who owned the block is a racer and a engine machinist. He told me that all the heat is in the cylinder heads and as long as I run a good water pump, radiator, and low temp thermostat, and maybe an oil cooler if oil temp gets hot and I would be fine driving on the street? On the other hand I have people telling me that it will burn the motor up? I have already used a 12" hilti bit and drilled out some of the filler through the deck holes that weren't threaded(head bolt threads) in atempt to get coolent down lower in the block, then I flushed out block.
Any opinions on this topic, keep in mind that I will run a 160 degree thermostat, 3 core radiator, dual electric fans, edlebrock aluminum water pump, synthetic motor oil, and some type of oil cooler, if I build this motor to run on the street.

 

Two thirds?, I think your gonna have trouble except the coldest days in Philly. Generally, anything higher than the freeze plugs is asking for trouble in street motor. It produces little benefit also. Id say give it a shot, but Id be fully prepared to move all the parts over to something else. Id also say if you can find a fresh 2bolt 350 that is clean for less than 200 for the block then save yourself the trouble and go with it.

 

for sustained street use id say no. if it was just a half fill you could get away with it.

 

You could get away with a half fill and a oil cooler on the street... anything more than that and your going to burn it up on the street

 

Look at the $$ risk. The block and machine work are only a fraction of the cost of the entire motor. Do you really want to risk it? I wouldn't do it but that's just my 2 cents. (where is that cool 2 penny smiley?)
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Found it.

 

When other people and some friends tell me, "its going to burn it up". They really can't explain what it would burn up. If the cylinder heads and top 2-3" of the block is around a 160degrees, and bottom end is splashing cool oil on the cylinder walls to lubricate the pistons and rings what would burn up? Coolent temp and oil temp guage would be the key in monitoring it on the street. If either one starts going up uncontrollable you know that it won't be long before a nuclear meltdown occurs, right?????

 

what will happen is the cylinders will eventually get a ton of heat in them, the oil temp will get to high and the pistons will stick as tghey expand from the heat. i have run 1/2 fill blocks on the street with no problems (not daily driving though)

 

What's going to happen is the oil temps are going to rise... which is where the oil cooler comes in

Now with a 2/3 fill on the street the oil temps will get to high from driving and the oil will start to breakdown from the heat.... After you pull it apart you will understand why they say burn it up. By looking at the bearings, crank journals, wrist pins, cylinder walls...etc

 

How hot does the oil get in a typical street motor (not a daily driver)? How hot will the oil get with block filler? Then add a oil cooler (100% eff.), synthetic oil. I want to know every possiable out come good or bad, I'm very curious as far as this subject goes. Not many people have experiecnce with block filler and street motors.

 

typically, oil temp is 20 degrees hotter than the coolant. I do not become concerned until it exceeds 250 degrees.

 

Let me try to restate what 11Flat was saying. Even if you have nice cool oil splashing on near-red hot parts, they will not be adequately cooled by the oil. If this worked, nobody would fool with silly radiators. It doesn't matter how good the oil cooler is the parts will burn up. Most notably the pistons, which have a near constant flame above them. The only way they stay cool is by passing heat into the cylinder wall. The whole idea is that a track engine will always be run only 10 minutes maximum and will have cooldown time between runs.
I agree, pass on the filled block and get a rebuildable core to be machined.
The money is in the "goodies" inside the block. It'd be a shame to burn 'em up.

 

I know that you really want to use this block. I understand the pain of turning down such an offer. I beleive that your gut is telling you that it is a big risk. It is.

Try to keep in mind that the engineers designing and testing engines put them through extreme tests. And most that make it to market hold up. Your car is a daily driver. That means you need it to get you around. Do you want dependable or risky?

 

block fills.. street engines. they don't necessarily go hand in hand. sounds like a sweet block though. it is capable of making some serious hp numbers. street/strip is a very fine line to walk. find yourself a 2 bolt 350 block and have the main caps splayed. if you can get this filled block grab it and keep it around in the case you want to build a strip only car. it will come in handy, otherwise don't worry about it because it won't live long in a daily driver. good luck with your decision.

 

Thanks for all the input, I'll probably just keep the block for a strip car. I have a factory roller block I'll use in its place. I'm only 22 and I'm still learning the many aspects of serious street rods as well as track cars.