READ ALL PAGES: HOME, RETAILERS, WHY TOP TIER, DEPOSIT CONTROL

http://www.toptiergas.com/index.html

The Only GAS Around Me That Is Worth Buying Anymore Is SHELL, if you look in the retailers section, NO Marathon, NO Sunoco, NO BP (Not even their high octane meets good standards)

READ ALL THESE PAGES: GET THE FACTS ON FUEL, SHELL V-POWER (ALL ABOUT SHELL V-POWER)

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...dir_fuels.html

ENJOY.......I DID

 

You work for Shell???

I've been using AMSOIL PI fuel additive for a little over 23 years. It is a concentrated detergent with an upper cylinder lube and rust inhibitor to boot. It costs $7.85 for a 16 oz bottle, used at a rate of 1 oz per 10 gals of gasoline. That comes to just under 5 cents a gallon.

I have obtained several vehicles over the years that had marginal maintenance done on them, and started using the PI on every fill-up. In every case that I've subsequently opened them up (valve seals, gasket replacement, etc.), the fuel path was squeaky clean. In two of the cases, the engines were carbureted with primary and secondary barrels - the primary paths were the aforementioned squeaky clean, while the seldom-used secondaries were still coated to some degree with residue from the previous "neglect". I know the stuff works.

V-Power is somewhere around 15-20 cents more per gallon than the discount gas I buy. V-Power doesn't have upper cylinder lube in it, and I don't see anything on their site about rust inhibitor. Bottom line, I have absolutely no motivation to pay 10-15 cents more per gallon to get less in the end.

 

How about this one......what if I buy Shell V-power....its the only EPA met gas around me.....and the fact its 50% more detergent in it makes me want it, and then add your amsoil PI additive? I bet that would make for a super gas. Lol. I might go with the v-power (because of actual tests) and that amsoil additive because you obviously know your shyt.

What is the diff. in driving ability with this additive. better mileage, better idle?

What do you think about Sea Foam?

P.S. I DONT WORK FOR SHELL.

 

congratulations... you've just been brainwashed by marketing.



now go look into how gasoline is transported...esp long distance pipelines... you'll be surprised...

another hint:
ever wonder why they dont paint their brand/logo on the side of the tanker truck??

 

No why dont they paint them. And I saw the V-power thing on MUSCLE CAR TV. Plus it blatantly shows you what happens....

I have never seen their tankers sooooo.....dont know about the logo thing....and whats that suppost to mean?

Also if you read EPA standards show Shell to be one of the best gases to use. They say ALL other gas companies only meet the MINIMUM requiremtns for detergent while shell uses 50% more than them.

IM CONFUSED NOW.

 

first off.... what your reading is WRITTEN BY SHELL.... hence the bias.


second... while there are degrees of separation, at any given time, you cannot tell where the gas you're pumping comes from.
gasoline is not imported. it is refined within north America. it is transported thru pipeline, rail and truck.... alot of these pipelines, tanks, and trucks are shared between companies... so your "special" shell gasoline might be pumped from one tanker... then that same tanker drives across the street and fills up el cheepos...

 

I infact know someone who drives a gas truck all the gas from every company comes out of a local distribution center where all the gas companys put it in thier own trucks but the additives each company adds is a little different but they arent added out in a chemical facrtory they are actually added by the truck driver as we all know mistakes do happen but 50 % detergent isnt doing anything for your motor that buying the stuff once a month wouldnt do beside lining gas company pockets

 

I WAS WANDERING HOW MUCH A DIFFERENCE IT IS TO USE 93 INSTEAD OF JUST USING 87 UNLEADED GAS, 1987 5.7L IROC-Z AND IS IT BAD TO USE THE 87 UNLEADED

 

if your motor is not pinging with the timing set correctly then ther is no benefit to use ing a higher octane gas. It does not initself make more power ot get better gas mileage.

The needed gas additive package is specified by the auto manufacturers for proper emissions, drivability and engine life. The package is adjusted for wether a few times a year.
Adding 50% more detergent will not make your car run better or last longer or require less tune ups. its a marketing ploy.
What has been shown to help clean out your motors combustion chambers and valve stems is to simply, periodicly switch brands of gas you buy. Like from Shell to Esso or Mobile. This changes the additive package. The new additives help clean out the enevitable fuel deposits of the old gasoline additive package.

 

heres another fun carbon cleaning fact..

ever see a engine with a blown headgasket?
notice how that piston is perfectly clean?

steam cleans off the carbon.... easily.

99% of what that seafoam topend cleaner does, can be replicated by using.......water. afterall, water is seafoams main ingredient anyway.

 

Now how do I drop water into my engine and have it be fine??? I mean if its the same tell me how......I'll check back for an answer. Thank you.

 

Technically, it isn't the "main" ingredient, but it is one of the ingredients that is responsible for significant cleaning.

The analysis of SeaFoam® is:
Here's my take on it. SeaFoam® is basically refinery "waste". With the exception of the alcohol (added to keep the water in an emulsified suspension), the components are the mid- to upper-tier byproducts of hydro cracking useful petroleum products from crude oil. Those that are usually hardest to separate (normally done through a centrifuge). Instead of further refining the products, it could simply sold as a mixture with some alcohol added to keep it volatile and emulsified. The alcohol mixes with the water(as does the naphtha to some extent) and the "murky" appearance of the liquid is due to the emulsion created by the water/oil mixture forced into suspension by those solvents.

It was a good marketing ploy back in the '30s when it was first sold as an additive for outboards that were stored over the winter and suffered the typical stale fuel problems and varnish. 70 years later, the sellers and marketers have lots of suggestions for its use - "Add it to fuel; Add it to crankcase oil; Add it through the intake to clean chambers..."

As a fuel additive, the water is a big "No-No" if you have injectors. Most injectors don't tolerate much water without problems. And I always get a big grin over people who swear on their honor that they'd NEVER use alcohol in their fuel because of their misconceptions of problems caused by it, but regularly use fuel line anti-freezes (alcohol) and SeaFoam® to "make it run better and last longer."

Because of the formulation, I'd never even think of putting it in my engine oil, even though a lot of people swear by it (probably the majority of whom don't have a clue what's in it). The alcohol and water will likely evaporate and be cleaned out by the PCV system before they can do a lot of harm, but the solvent (naptha) and extremely thin oil can't help the lubricating effectiveness of your chosen oil.

As for dumping into an intake, plain water injection will do a far superior job of cleaning carbon deposits. As with any liquid administered to an engine, the rate is critical, and there really isn't eoungh water available in SeaFoam® to do much cleaning. I’ve had pretty good success with the 99¢ gallon bottles of windshield washer fluid - That’s right, the same stuff you might pour into your washer reservoir. It is a mixture of water and methanol, with a hint of blue dye. The alcohol is flammable and slows the combustion process, as well as helping clean some deposits, and the water in the combustion chamber finishes the task when it explodes into steam. And you can get a whole case of it for the cost of ONE can of oily water, err, SeaFoam®.

Hey - You asked....

 

How do you guys feel about this one. I read alot by a guy who uses this and he said whenever he uses this an engine (after being opened up) tends to be cleaner....alot cleaner....like shiny inside. Just thought I would bring this up too since i dont want to just pour stuff into my tank.

Thanks

 

how about this.....





water does the same thing.


what looks "dirty" on the piston/head/valves??? carbon deposits.


pour water down the running engine.. water turns to steam.. steam cleans carbon off..... and you have a pretty looking motor.

for more examples of this, just lookup "leaky headgasket"... because when a headgasket blows, it leaks coolent in, and guess what? that piston/cyl is clean.

 

So what your saying is for me to drop water into my PCV or something like that?

Okay and for the Fuel Additive.....how do you guys rate that?

 

no do not ad water to pcv system spray or pour slowly down throttle bores with the motor running and be sure to keep it running...works real good for a free cleaning fuel additives suck they can foul plugs if used on a regular basis



and how did you get a IRoc with an L03?

 

http://www.iroczone.com/techartspottersguide.html

Check for the year 1989....it will tell you everything...my car was re-painted (before I bought it) and the guy that had it liked the IROC-Z on the front instead of the rear....the title says 89 with 305 and the vin says 89 with 305....and I am not sure if its stated but I have a stock steering brace....my brothers and other friends do not....of course they are not IROC's either.

 

I know I work in the petroleum industry, (LPG) and it all comes from the same places, and is shipped out in different trucks..About 10 companys in our area get theirs from the same place (Dynagy) Have used Seafoam once, and thought it was an ok product, but it is true that water injections do clean up the cylinders rather well..........What is the highest octane gas sold in the Houston area on a regular basis???

 

The water trick has been discussed many times before on this site, it amazes me that people still don't know or understand why it works.

 

Amen! I remember doing this on my old bird...

 

That page makes no sense. Yes, as others have said, it all comes from the same distributors, but then different companies add their own additives, BUT, what they add changes regionally by time of year, because of market pressures (the ratios and types of additives change as their prices change) and constantly changing laws which change what they can get away with.

Because of that it makes no sense to rank gas by brand since you can’t reliably predict what exactly you’re getting out of the pump and how it is different from the next brand down the street or even the same brand on the other side of town.

WRT to running water through the engine… with a normal carb or TB you can carefully pour it down the bores, but that’s always a hassle. What I’ve found that works best is to just use a spray bottle and that way you can control where and how much you deliver. The basic deal… make sure the engine is nice and warm and spray down the bores basically as fast as you can keep it running without futzing too much with the throttle, and you really don’t want to stall the engine doing this if you can prevent it. Oh, and do this when your neighbor’s aren’t around or when it’s windy, since this will fill the neighborhood with smoke/steam

 

the way i see it, too many additives means less burning gasoline. i choose a gas with less additives and a high octane rating. i do the same with my oil, i chose an oil with the best Viscosity Index Improvers which keep oil at the 5W30 mark where i want it, and with mild levels of detergents. if you add too much stuff to gas or oil youve lost the basic properties of them.

plus i dont like shell stations, they are slow when you wanna pay fast.

 

here is some more reading for you guys

http://quiktrip.com/gasoline/toptier.asp
here they say they are one of the first to meet tier 1 standards and how great teir1 is and others not part of teir1 aren't that good right?

now go to this page which is the DNS listing of the quiktrip.com website that is nothing more then a convience store

http://dnstools.com/?lookup=on&wwwho...ubmit=Get+Info

now do the same thing for the toptiergas.com website

http://dnstools.com/?lookup=on&wwwho...ubmit=Get+Info

notice the contact info?

it's all the same

for toptier
Registrant:
National Products Group
P.O. Box 3475
Tulsa, OK 74101
US

Domain Name: TOPTIERGAS.COM

Administrative Contact:
Denny, Jim ynnedj@aol.com
P.O. Box 3475
Tulsa, OK 74101
US
9188368551

and then your local gas station quicktrip



Registrant:
QuikTrip Inc
4242 S. Sheridan Road
Tulsa, OK 74145
US

Domain Name: QUIKTRIP.COM

Administrative Contact, Technical Contact:
Long, Lynn llong@QUIKTRIP.COM
QuikTrip Inc.
P.O. Box 3475
Tulsa, OK 74101
US
918-831-1359



then notice on the retailers page guess who is at the top?
at least as far as your address so doesn't that kinda make you wonder how accurate that topteirgas is?

and if they are the ones who started this toptiergas then no wonder they are the first to meet the "standards".

and then read this funny part on the quiktrip.com website

http://quiktrip.com/aboutqt/faqs.asp


can we say misleading marketing information. and if nothing else I could easily join top tier myself. buy some cheap nasty gas. add some detergents and I'm set. marketing sucks

 

WOW. Thanks for all of that....I guess you can say good thing I brought this up...because now everyone knows about this. Thanks much.