Hey guys

just finished today cleaning the block 305 2bolt 1prs and have spent much time on the combo of parts I want to aquire, but not sure if they "match" the mods I'am planning are

Block:
3.75" stroke
5.7 connecting rods
10cc 4 valve relife pistons

Heads are 081 with a porting and polish 1.94"int/1.6"ex valve angle job
lt4 hot cam
1.6 roller rockers

going to also throgh on a lt1 intake 58mmTB and #30 injectors

I assume with the extra ci I should be able to hit 300hp 350lbft/tq rather easily but I'am sure from what I've seen and A class tunning I could make 400hp


I was wondering when having the rotating assembly complete and in the processe putting on the timming chain how do I align the rotating assembly with the cam? (to be in the exact same points that I need them to be properly timed?)

Regards
Skoda

 

What block are you using? I really hope you aren't throwing a stroker crank into your 305 eh?

If you simply use a 350 block, everything else you listed would work awesome, 10cc dish pistons, conn rods, 081 heads, LT4 cam, etc. That's a winner there.

Once you build that stuff, aligning the cam and crank is REALLY easy. You line up a dot, and a dot. It's quite simple once you get to that point.

 

Like this.



This alignment puts the #6 piston at TDC of compression stroke, Facing the dots towards each other is easier than aligning them for #1 piston at TDC compression stroke which would place the Cam dot at the 12 o'clock postion, the crank gear would stay where it is now, at the 12 o'clock postion.

#1 piston at TDC compression stroke is where you would what the timing to be when installing the distributor to fire the #1 cylinder.

What's your reason for stroking a 305?

 

its an LG 305 block as for that casting number..dont' have it at the moment, wouldn't be a problem to get it for monday

[quote=Ireallyhope you aren't throwing a stroker crank into your 305 eh?[/quote]

Well yes I'am planning on dropping a stroker crank in the 305

[quote=rgarcia63 What's your reason for stroking a 305?[/quote]

I didn't want to see another 305 block sent to a dump or scrapper so I decided to rebuild it with new potentail whats an extra 300cdn for a stroker 334, plus I have budy who works at a machinening shop, its just, I scratch his back he scratchs mine so it cost me 150 bucks to have it 0.02 over honed and had new cam bearings installed plus the block was checked for cracks (not sure what the processe is called)

thanks guys for the info on the timing

Regards
Skoda

 

LT4 cam in an LG4 block? Aren't LG4 blocks flat tappet blocks?

That same combo of parts in a 350 would toss you an extra 50HP or so quite easily and cheaply. I wouldn't lose sleep over trashing a fairly good 305 block, I'd lose sleep over throwing out an easy 50HP.

 

it just says its an lg block theres no 4 after it in less it being an lg alone makes it a lg4 block

as for it being flat tappet when I was terring down the block I came across roller lifters

As for losing 50hp I enjoy challanges, plus I'am young so there'll be many appertunities to do a stroker 350 I just look at it as more experience under the belt

By the way, how would identify a cam?

hmmm getting the cast number is a must now

Regards
Skoda

 

oh, my bad, never heard anyone refer to an "LG" block. Ok, roller lifters in the block is a pretty good giveaway then.

The cam should have some #'s stamped on the front of it. You can google those to find out what they are. If it's the stock cam, we can probably tell you what it is. I thought you knew it was an LT4 cam?

Haha, ok, have fun with your stroker 335 I suppose. :shrug: I can't argue that it's good experience.

 

actually I have no idea what cam i pulled out of the block but I have bought the lt4 hot cam, its calmly awaitting for some use

"haha, ok have fun with your stroker 335" Thanks it will be a journey none the less

Regards
Skoda

 

In regards to timing the cam to the rotating assembly, you can just line up dot to dot, but why not degree the cam and set it EXACTLY at the point where it makes the most power. I think far to many people leave hp on the table by not degreeing there cams. Most cams today are manufactured in China using loose tolerences and/or false durations to make it a flashy sale. How do you really know the lift and duration with out checking? Even had GMPP cams that degreeed differently than advertised. So line it up dot to dot and you may be retarding your timing and losing hp. You can, in my experience pick up that lost 40-50hp that sonix talked about by not using a 350 by optimizing your cam timing. Since you might what to know advancing your cam timing would increase horsepower, which means starting the intake cycle earlier and finishing earlier. Do some research about degreeing your cam using the intake lobe centerline method and how it affects your engines performance. You would need about $80(one time investment) worth of tools, but my opinion is the best money and time spent on really dialing an engine in and getting the best most reliable setup.

 

what are the tools called?

 

degree wheel, dial indicator, piston stop, checking springs. Summit sells a whole kit assembly plus case: Part #sum-g1056 for $83.95

 

thanks for the info joe is there anything I should take in peticular caution to?

Regards
Skoda

 

when putting the wire harness,etc together which ESC should I use for the stroker? stay with the 305 or go with the 350?

Regards
Skoda

 

good basic build info

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

http://www.diabolicalperformance.com...guideline.html


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._first_engine/


http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/131229/

http://www.circletrack.com/tipstrick..._first_engine/

 

Will those heads allow for the lift coming from the LT4 and 1.6 rocker combo ?

 

yes with some machining, but in the end to some it would make more sence to buy new heads for the price

Thanks grumpy for the links, coming in very useful