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cam assembly lube

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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 02:21 PM
  #1  
johnsonm's Avatar
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From: Sunny LaCrosse FL
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: LG4 feedback controlled 350
Transmission: used to be T5 now T56
cam assembly lube

I am swaping in Comp Cams XE cam and have heard horror stories about lobe failure at break in. Threads on here and other folks have said be sure to use the moly cam lube not the red stuff, get it at NAPA. I went to NAPA and what they have is "engine assembly lube with moly graphite" or "Lubriplate no. 105 motor assembly grease".

I think what I want is the engine assembly lube with moly graphite, is this correct? Nothing specifically says "moly cam lube".

Sorry for being a DA, just want make sure I get the right thing. Thanks Guys!
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #2  
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
About this time last year I was jawboning with a good-ol'-boy fellow racer who runs an engine shop about this topic. I was also asking if I should remove the inner valve springs for the cam break-in. He walked over to his bench, opened a drawer, and handed me a packet of ARP thread lube. "I've been using this for years, and have never removed the center spring and I've never wiped out a single cam lobe."

Moly is the key. I've also heard people sing the virtues of GM EOS Oil Additive (I think that's what it's called, off the top of my head). Crane has a break-in oil additive as well. And, use a petroleum-based diesel engine oil for the break-in (a diesel synthetic is a good idea for use after the cam break-in) because diesel oils have the anti-wear additives that have been removed from ILSAC GF-4 rated oils for emissions reasons (for latest model cars, which all have roller lifters).
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 05:17 PM
  #3  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Just use the grease that comes in the box with the cam
You shouldn't have to buy extra. This is also your best bet for warantee usage.

ARP thread lube did feel VERY similar to the lunati/crane lube I bought for cams. I think it says on the box not to use it for that though But the stuff that came with my compxe is red like strawberry jam, very similar to Clevite's bearing guard. (aka bearing jam).
I wiped out my lunati cam, and not my comp. Go figure.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 05:35 PM
  #4  
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From: St Louis, MO
Car: 89 Iroc & 88 Firecird & 86 Camaro
Engine: 350 TPI & 305 TBI & 305 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
If its a roller cam then you can put just 30w oil on it and it will be fine. However I use the lube that comes with the cam.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 05:53 PM
  #5  
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Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: Built 406ci
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 Torsen Posi, Moser Axles
If it's a flat tappet cam, go with the prescribed lube the cam manufacturer suggests and start with Shell Rotella oil for diesels, it has the added properties to protect the lobes and lifters on start up and break in.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #6  
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From: St Louis, MO
Car: 89 Iroc & 88 Firecird & 86 Camaro
Engine: 350 TPI & 305 TBI & 305 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah I think that High Tech Gm or another magazine did an article on this.It was called when good cams go bad.Anyway the test results showed that if you have a flat tappet cam rotella oil is the way to go.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 08:40 PM
  #7  
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From: NJ
Car: 1986 & 87 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 & PG
Axle/Gears: 28spline 4.10 & KTRE 12 bolt
I was told that Shell Rotella no longer has the additives in it's newest blend of oil. Has anyone heard about this as I am ready to install my flat tappet cam again after wiping out a lobe after 4,000 miles. Cam was broken in with the Shell oil.

Thanks Frank
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 11:14 PM
  #8  
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 vortec
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i am a marine mechanic and i put shell rotella in every new diesel i install infact volvo penta will not warranty the motor if you dont use shell oil but they dont tell you that until after the motor has cooked it self
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 11:21 PM
  #9  
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From: Hou. TX
Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
I used the red "stuff" supplied, so if it fails i will let you know, if i can easily fix the nock the engine recieved after 50 miles.
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 06:52 AM
  #10  
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From: Sunny LaCrosse FL
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: LG4 feedback controlled 350
Transmission: used to be T5 now T56
ZONES89RS you just installed an xe cam? Something started knocking after 50 miles?

This is a flat tappet, hydro cam.

Thanks for all the replies guys. The reason I asked was because I heard the moly stuff was far superior to the red stuff.

Anyone else know anything about Rotella being a different blend, w/o the zinc I guess?
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 08:27 AM
  #11  
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I heard
Doesn't count for crap.

Call Comp, and see what they say.

Doesn't matter what anybody here says: if the cam goes flat and Comp won't warranty it because you didn't follow THEIR instructions, you're fornicated.
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 08:39 AM
  #12  
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From: loxahatchee fla
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh.../post/new/#NEW

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...n/welcome.html

http://www.beslub.com/moly.htm

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 10:41 PM
  #13  
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From: York County Va
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: 350, aluminum heads, carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 10 bolt, 3.42:1
i'm in the middle of my engine build and i have a pack of the arp moly thread lube five7kid is talking about and it does specify that you can use it as an engine assembly lube. personally that, moly lube, "red jam" cam lube, or any engine assembly lube would do the trick. i would'nt use only motor oil for start up on a new or even used cam. check out my motor pics under PARTS!!!!!!!!! in the engine tech section and don't forget to leave a comment, thanks and good luck
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