Hey again, all.

I was having an issue with my computer fuse constantly blowing, which seems to be due to the wire grounding out somewhere. I couldn't find out where, so decided to run new wires to the MCS and computer... works great now, except computer is throwing a code 43 (ESC module). This runs off of the fused power that the computer was switched by and the MCS runs off of. Where can I find this module on my car? Any pictures? Repair books and search have been hopeless for carbed cars (lots of results for TPI or TBI)

Thanks

 

On the firewall betwent he brake master cyl and the fender. It's flat, about 3" square, has a plug with about 5 or 6 wires in it.

 

It will throw that code when it's disconnected. Check the connector to the distributor as well.

 

The reason it is throwing the code is because, again, there is no power. Effectively, it's disconnected =)

I've found what my books refer to as the "EST" module there, is this the same thing? This unit does not have the fused power going to it. I guess this is what is confusing me.

Also note that the vehicle seems to drive fine. Is there any advance when this unit is not connected? I can't really tell, since I've been driving without it (or the MCS) for a little while now. The Chiltons book isn't exactly clear on it (it says it only retards advance, otherwise does nothing...?)

I just did the easy thing and took a picture... is this unit it? (don't mind my messy/dirty engine bay ;d)

 

yes. it interfaces between the knock sensor and the ecm.

 

Yes that's it.

How can you possibly work on something that nasty and funky? You can't even see what you're doing with all that filth all over everything. Go take it to the car wash and clean the engine bay up, you might be amazed at how much easier and generally less unpleasant it is to work on something that isn't all crusted up with 150,000 miles of groaty oil-leaking dusty-road funk. Might even help you find the oil leaks, so you can make it stay clean for longer.

 

I wasn't going to bring it up.

 

The plan is to do an engine swap (engine is leaking oil like a sieve, plus I have a nice 350 waiting...), and totally remove all the computer harness and clean the bay out, since I won't be using the original carb or dizzy. It's just up to money and time to do it, I just need to get it as drivable as possible until I get my other vehicle... got all the parts, don't got the tools or a place or time to do it

Other parts of my car are clean though, like anything external the engine bay, the interior, etc... so I am getting there...

I'm also not sure if my car has a knock sensor? Where are the other devices that interface to this so I can find out where it is fused from? The schematics I have are confusing, one shows a link to this unit from the computer fuse (which there is not), another shows no power coming from the fuse directly to this unit but I don't know which one this would be getting power from at that point.

Again, do I even have advance right now? Is it something to be concerned about for 2 to 4 more weeks or so?

 

Some early models, reportedly did not come with knock sensor. It would be above the pan near the starter if so equipped.

If going with a 350, why not use your existing computer controlled carb and dist. Unless you're really getting crazy it won't limit your power and you'd save a butt load of cash.

You can verify your timing advance with a gun. Like opening a rear end to check the gears, you don't know what you have or if it's working until you check it with a light.

The connector to the EST module. None of the wires has power with ignition on?

 

Hey, thanks for all the help naf, and sofakingdom.

I don't think mine has a knock sensor - I didn't see anything above the starter when I did a starter change recently. It also isn't the original engine, so it may have not been put on if my car did originally come with it.

I am not using the computer controlled carb and distributor mostly because I am not used to it, the wiring is failing and I don't want to keep on troubleshooting wiring problems when a mechanical solution would work. Besides, I already have the new carb and distributor. The carb works (could probably use rebuilt though), the distributor works, the computer works... the wiring in between is garbage. I'm not getting rid of it for performance reasons, rather just so I don't have to have the wiring mess and won't have to troubleshoot it.

I don't have a timing light, and I don't know a thing about checking it (never done it before). Though I am sure I could learn. =) As I said, one of my books says that the ESC only handles cases when timing needs retarded, but I've also read here (I think?) that it handles all of the timing. It certainly gets to higher RPMs far easier than it did before I reran the ECM and MCS fuse wires, but the mixture also changed (since the MCS wasn't working) so I don't know. Thanks for the help anyway, might just have to get it timed to see if advance is working... but since I am only going to drive it for another few weeks, and I am already getting similar milage to what I got before, I may just assume it works

 

You're going to need a timing light soon anyway...

 

Well, it's going to be 2 to 3 months until I work on it =)

Thanks again.