intex1982

iTrader: (2)

i have a 355 with around 10to 1 cr , trick flow heads ,rpm perform intake, 600 holley and 4.10 gears stall 2200 . what is the best cam under .480 lift please help

funkdubie

why do you want a small cam cause that will make a difference in the recommendation?

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

the head springs cant handly anymore than .480 lift

funkdubie

if you are looking for good hp and torque i'd purchase a cam kit and replace the springs. if it isn't in your budget comp cams makes a couple that would do fairly well. what are the other specs on the heads or do you know. will you be towing a boat or seadoos or something like that or just looking for a mild everyday cam and is the lopey sound something you are after or not?

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

62 cc 195cc runners 2.02 1.60

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

lol its in a camaro and its for lil sheet and more strip

funkdubie

there is no way i would stick with those springs. you can make 400+ hp with that setup if you change springs to accomodate a larger cam. I would go with something like a 230-240 duration and .525 lift. otherwise you are seriously choking the life out of your motor. Lunati makes a good kit found on summitt as well as some other vendors. Those trickflow heads flow really well stock but won't do so well with a cam less than .480.....i would recommend calling a cam manufacturer and giving them all the specs such as gear,tranny,compression,carb,exhaust and main purpose (daily driver or street/strip) and let them pick one for you. i am using an erson with a .474 lift with a 108 lsa and it sounds great but doesn't make power until about 3500 rpm because my heads suck. your gears and stall can handle a larger than .480 cam but your carb is probably 50cc to 100cc too small unless you really want to stay will a smaller lift for the torque instead of horsepower.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

i have a blue racer .480 lift cam with 1.5 rockers now but i have some 1.6 rockers what u think that would do for it if i changed the springs?

funkdubie

do you know what the max lift the head will accept is..prolly like .575 or something i would think. i would put the max spring on it and change the rockers on the exhaust for sure. you won't get much benefit from changing the intake ratio by that small of an amount but you will on the exhaust....purchase a good roller cam and lifter setup when money permits...you'll prolly get 5hp and 7-10 tq just by changing exhaust rockers.

matt_p

those trickflow heads are good for .600

just pic a good cam and then use the springs the cam company says

F-BIRD'88

The near stock 2200 stall is realy going to limit your choices. Too much duration and the launch is going to get soft.
What makes you think you are limited to .480" lift.
I'll bet you can handle more. You need to remove a valve spring and check things. Baring that, a Crane Energizer 278H
Summit # CRN-10013 would work well with your stock converter. 278-278-222-222@.050 .467-.467 110LSA.
1.6 ratio rockers will help more on the intake side than the exhaust side. Will give a few more ponies up top at the expense of a few down low. It's a mild tuning affect at best.
What cam do you have now? What effect are you looking for by changing the camshaft. More RPM? harder launch?

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

bc i have TFS-30400001 heads http://www.trickflow.com/product/prfeature_index.htm and as for the stall i'm going to get a 2800 one next week after i get some mickey thompson etsand i want more power i just dont think i have a good cam now its a blue racer .480 lift cam and i just dont think its to great

Air_Adam

Two words... "stock lift rule"

Check out some of the circle track and drag racing 'stock-lift rule' cams... they are low lift, between .460 and .480 usually, but still have the duratio of the big cams... usually anything between 220* and 260* @ .050.

Probably not really friendly cams for street duty though.

F-BIRD'88

Most stock diameter springs are good for .510" lift. Some much more. Youwould want to remove 1 spring and measure the installed height and then the coil bind point of your spring. Even if it is really limited to a .480" cam a simple valve spring swap to say a Lunati 73943 springs $64@ Summit is a pretty simple swap. Good for .540" lift depending on the installed height. There are probabily 20 things holding your car back more than the cam u have now.
If you're going drag racing don't buy a 2800stall. get a 3500 stall converter. The distributor probabily needs recurving and dialing in. The actual compression ratio is probabily not near as high as you think. etc etc etc. exhaust....carb.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

new 350 bored 40 over with 10.1 to1 cr trick flow heads 2.02 1.60 195 runner edelbrook perfrom rpm intake 750 holley msd 8.5 wires summit blueprinted hei dist .473 .486 zcam rollar rockers 4.10 posi rear, 350th with mild shift kit 3200 stall convertor, Heddman 1 5/8 shorty hedders, custom y pipe complete 3 inch ext and flowmasters is what i have now but want to change the cam what can i do to get more poweri want high 11's

jonmark1985

don't ever buy a cam because the "springs can handle .### lift" always match the cam and springs together, other wise your asking for trouble

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

lol in what he said spring for $64 dollars right

Stekman

If the spring only handles .480", it can't be that great of a spring to begin with.

And Adam, for the record "stock lift rule" is three words, bud. Maybe 2 in Canuckia, though.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

haha, LOL, yea we say stock lift-rule, it's one one word at the end there

Almost all of the 1.25" type of springs are "very similar". Heck they're probably made in the same place. They're the same OD, same spring thickness (or very close) and have the same installed height and same coil bind. It's just a matter of rounding, and what the company says the numbers are. You still want to measure it when you set it up.

So if you set it up right, .525" is usually the safe limit. And yea, never buy a cam based on the springs. That's like buying shoes based on what shoelaces you have. Buy the cam ($200-$400), based on what you want/need, then buy your springs ($60-120) to suit that.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

ok what do i need to get in to the 11's really with my cumbo?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

11's?
A bigger stall speed
A bigger carb
suspension/tires, you'll need it to hook and GO
gobs of duration. You're looking at a flat tappet? I'm thinking like the compxe284h. Just set up the valve train with the right springs.

With a 2200RPM stall, 600cfm carb, and a sub .480" lift cam (that's also assuming low enough duration to match up with the 2200 RPM stall and 600cfm carb), you'd be lucky (VERY LUCKY) to break the 13.000 barrier, IMHO.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

i running a 750 holley vac sec now running and a 224 230 at 50 .473 .486 lift z cam and have mickey thompson et streets on rear now

F-BIRD'88

You're a long long way away from running a 11sec time.
just about every thing in your combination will need to be changed.
You need 470 to 500hp to run 11's in a 3500LB car.
114+MPH track speed.
taking weight out of the car helps a lot. every 100lbs reduction is worth a tenth.
For a 350ci motor 3500lb car your looking at a 4500 to 5000 stall, Chassis work to increase traction to allow a hard launch (1.6ish 60ft times)
4.10's 4.56's ported aftermarket heads, Single plane racing intake, big solid or solid roller cam, 6700/7000rpm capability. 11:1 compression or more. racing fuel or a blend of race fuel and street gas.
How does your car perform at the track now?
(60ft, 1/4 mile ET and MPH)

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

ok in to the 12.7 range

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

not been to the track yet going friday to see what it does just dont think its that fast in my opion or dont feel it but it out run a 95 z28 head work bigger cam to it on slicks by 4 car lenths

F-BIRD'88

its a lot easier to guage what direction to go once you know where you stand now. I check back on your thread and see how ya do at the track. have fun...

rx7speed

as far as the .480cam you brought up with 1.5 rockers switching to 1.6 rockers would change your lift to .512" lift


also if you are reusing springs and switching cams you might as well go new and get good springs that can handle the lift. you will be a lot happier in the long run

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

that 480 cam was my old cam

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

ok anywhere from 13.290 to 13.564 over seven runs in a 1/4 mile

F-BIRD'88

thats not too bad. What was the MPH and 60ft times? Was that open exhaust or thru the muflers? What headers do you have?
Are you TF heads the Twisted Wedge design or the newer "23deg"?
Woops I reread the thread as see you have the 195cc 23deg heads, a 3200stall and shorty headers.
Was your testing thru the Y pipe or open exhaust.
What size is the Y pipe?
A good set of long tube headers( like hooker comps) add some power and torque especially with a bigger cam.
If you can tell me your MPH and 60ft times I can evaluate your engine HP and chassis effientcy now.
And suggest what to change to get 'er into the mid 12's.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

(mph) 102.45 - 104.74 (60ft)2.020-2.348 that open exhaust or thru the muflers? muflers What headers do you have? headmens 2 5/8 shorties
Are you TF heads the Twisted Wedge design or the newer "23deg"? 23deg

F-BIRD'88

You're making about 375 hp. Your 60ft times indicate the car is not launching well. Either the car has no low end torque or the tires are spinning on launch.
or both.
If you multiply your et x mph you get a number ranging from 1300 to 1400.
A low result indicates a effient chassis that leaves the line well relitive to its hp.
A high number indicates that the launch is soft. Your 2.0+++60ft times confirm that. If you were to improve the chassis and traction and the engines low end torque so your 60ft times were in the 1.7ish range you would be running 12's easily without adding any more hp.
This is what you need to work on. A good bracket/drag car has a chassis effiency factor ( et x mph of 1300 to 1330) so your car is capable of a 12.41 to 12.7 just by improving the launch and engine torque without adding any top end MPH.
the torque converter is very important. tell me about yours.
Your torque converter may or may not be junk, your tires are probabily spinning (more likely), The engines distributor probabily needs recurving. (needs more inital advance with a shorter curve. (try locking out the distributor advance by removering the weights and springs and tie up the mechanism with two tie wraps temperaily.)
then set your timing to 34-36deg at idle. See how this effects the launch.
then remove the distributor and recurve it properly with about 20-24deg initial and 34-36deg total. this will improve low end torque and throttle response and make it hit harder on launch.
Shorty cheapy headers leave a lot to be desired and unless the Y pipe is designed to scavenge the exhaust it will cost you a lot of lost torque.
tell me about your Y pipe and exhaust dimentions.
I would check the condition of the lower control arm bushings and get some LCArm relocation brackets and maybe some Airlift air bags to improve traction. Your posi diff may be lunched allowing 1 wheel to spin.
I would ditch the shorty headers for good long tubes. You can still use a Y pipe but it has to be a true merge pipe that scavenges and big like flowmaster sells
eg flowmaster# Y250350 2.5" into a 3.5" main pipe.
Are you getting a true 3200stall on launch or a sorta 320stall because the tires are spinning on launch?
----------
Your cr may not be as high as you think.
If your engine has the typical "rebuilder" flat top pistons (h345np) that are .045" in the hole at TDC and the block was not "decked" the cr could be as low as 9.3:1. Do a compression test with all plugs removed and a fully charged battery. A healthy pump gas motor should be 180PSI. less than 150 is cause for concern.

F-BIRD'88

The headers on my car were made by Mr. Gasket (no longer sold). Too bad cause they fit well. They are 1 5/8" long tube. The exhaust is a custom build dual exhaust system that follows the stock exhaust path except it is 2.5" duals from front to back. There are two custom built turbo type mufflers 2.5" i/o ganged together behind the axle. the two exhaust pipes exit the rear bumper on the drivers side. Gives it a European flavour.
there is nothing wrong with a two into 1 exhaust. this exhaust suites the third gen cars better but the headers need good collectors andthe Y pipe needs to be big and a true merge collector so it works with the camshaft exhaust timing in order to scavenge the exhaust. The bolt on stuff sucks.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

i know i need a better stall its only a 2200 b&m. my tires was spinning a little because i broke the trans mount on the second run. my y pipe really look like **** they done a bad job on it. well i checked my pistion a few time and they are in the hole .025 and i think that is the piston i used tho . the motor aint got 1500 miles on it yet.

F-BIRD'88

A 2200stall B&M is a basicly a stock rebuilt converter. A ny stock gm 12" converter will give you 2200stall. Buy a 10" "3600"stall B&M Super Holeshot #http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
#20425 this converter will do as advertized ( knock off .4 to .5 second from the ET) but it needs traction. Another great converter is a ATI 9" treemaster. All ATI converters are custom made for your car and work very well for the extra $$$'s.
If you want to go fast you need a quality converter. get the B&M 3600 at a minimum. get the ATI if you can swing the bucks. you wont be disapointed.
http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com
Your 60ft's should drop to the 1.7 range at least. This alone will get you into the 12's.
The exhaust as you know, sucks. The engine has to breath to make power.
To see how much power you are giving up remove your Y pipe from the headers. Make up two 2.5" header dump pipes about 10" to 12" long. Bolt them on to your shorty headers and go for a ride (collector extensions).
Either built your own Y pipe using a Flowmaster Y250350 2.5" into 3.5" merge collector and or get long tube headers.
I would go with long tube headers with a big *** Y pipe Flow master Y250350 mounted just rear of the trans and right of the drive shaft. use 3.5" ex pipe over the rear axle into a Flowmaster 3.5"-4" i/o racing muffler.

I hope you didn't bust the trans tail housing. Use a Poly trans mount. Get some Rear location brackets and new control arm bushings.
Once you've got a decent high stall converter and headers- Y pipe combo you can try a bigger cam like the Comp 280H magnum. Comps XE284H makes good power too. Do the exhaust first. The long duration cam won't work without the proper exhaust.
If your pistons are .025 in the hole with 64cc heads your cr is 9.77:1 with a felpro gasket. you could experiment with a thin .015' gasket. Cr 10.39:1. as long as it doesn't ping at WOT your find. A big Xe284 will want this cr. Other wise go back to a .039" gasket. Nothing wrong with doing a little port work while the heads are off.
if they are "out of the box" a little bowl and valve guide boss contouring is effective at getting the airflow up.
just remember, the cam has to work with the exhaust (scavegeing) to make power. One does not work without the other.
All these improvments combinded should get you mid to low 12's @108-109MPH.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

what do u thin i can get out of it with out changing the cam

F-BIRD'88

Now you're on the right track. I would change the cam last. It will have the least effect.
I say easy mid to high 12's with all the improvments I outlined above using the cam you have now..

F-BIRD'88

Something like this

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

like his would that work

F-BIRD'88

That will work great. use 2.5" pipes.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

here a bad pic of my y pipe now ! its ugly. do u think i can get some more power out of just fixing that mess.

F-BIRD'88

thats not a Y pipe LOL no you're not going to make nay power with something like that.
this is a Ypipe.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

how much power am i losing with that ****

F-BIRD'88

I don;t know. Cut it off and go for a ride and find out.

intex1982

iTrader: (2)

i have to of these will they work fine they are 2.5 in and 0ut

F-BIRD'88

yes