Oil Pump in Car?
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,949
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
That partially depends on your definition of "pull the motor".
You have to "pull" it to some degree.
It's easier to "pull" the motor completely.
Most likely, if you think you're going to actually repair something by doing this, you're likely to be disappointed.
You have to "pull" it to some degree.
It's easier to "pull" the motor completely.
Most likely, if you think you're going to actually repair something by doing this, you're likely to be disappointed.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
If your oil pump has actually gone bad, which is more than highly unlikely, you have a lot more to replace than just the pump.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I've pulled the pan twice in the car. Yep, have to lift the engine to get the pan to clear the crossmember.
I wouldn't call it easier to pull the engine, though.
I wouldn't call it easier to pull the engine, though.
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
I have done it also. I think it is easier to pull the engine if you dont have to many things in the engine bay. I wont pull the pan with the motor in again. If you do take the motor out then you can change the rear main seal and check everything.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,949
Likes: 2,461
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
That's about the way I look at it...
Jerking a motor out and slamming it back in is a little bit of nothing. On the other hand, I HATE laying on the ground working over my head. I'd a whole lot rather pull it all the way, and work on it out in the open where I can see it and reach it and not be laying on my back, than try to get something to seal up while laying in a puddle of fluids underneath a dripping, oily mess on my driveway or whatever.
It may look like it's less work to do it with the engine only partially out of the car; but I seriously doubt that in the long run, it really saves any time or labor.
Jerking a motor out and slamming it back in is a little bit of nothing. On the other hand, I HATE laying on the ground working over my head. I'd a whole lot rather pull it all the way, and work on it out in the open where I can see it and reach it and not be laying on my back, than try to get something to seal up while laying in a puddle of fluids underneath a dripping, oily mess on my driveway or whatever.
It may look like it's less work to do it with the engine only partially out of the car; but I seriously doubt that in the long run, it really saves any time or labor.
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From: Bolivar, TN
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
I just did mine last week isnt too bad. All you need to do is drop exhaust, pull off starter, unbolt motor mounts then using to 3in blocks of wood jack the motor up and place the wood between the motormount and the k-member. I would also reccommend removing oil cooler and trany cooler lines first if you have them. Also rotate the engine so the timing mark on the damper is at 6 o'clock that will give you the clearance you need to remove the oil pan.
Do it right and buy high quality parts only want to do this once. Took me a whole day to do it. I replaced the oil pan and pump. GL
Thanks
jason
Do it right and buy high quality parts only want to do this once. Took me a whole day to do it. I replaced the oil pan and pump. GL
Thanks
jason
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