Upgrades? Let me know!
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 162
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
Upgrades? Let me know!
Hey guys! I'm looking to do some perf. upgrades to my LG4. I've already got an edelbrock 2101 intake and I'm going to re-use my ccc q-jet (just rebuilt). What i'd like to chage are the following
Heads to World Products S/R # WRL-042650-1
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rsview=sku&Ns=
Comp Cams k-kit K12-242-2
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=
Headers are already on their way the engine was re-build aabout 20k miles ago. It runs fine no noises or leaks etc.
Tell me what you think!Please be kind, but honest!
Heads to World Products S/R # WRL-042650-1
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rsview=sku&Ns=
Comp Cams k-kit K12-242-2
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=
Headers are already on their way the engine was re-build aabout 20k miles ago. It runs fine no noises or leaks etc.
Tell me what you think!Please be kind, but honest!
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 365
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From: Melbourne,Fl
Car: 1989 TRANS AM GTA
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27
thats a big cam for a stock 305 but with the heads,intake,and headers and exhaust i hope!! you should be ok just make sure you get new springs with it and you should have a strong little 305
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 162
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From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
the k-kit come with springs,retianer locks etc. If that cam is tooo big what would you suggest a 262?
go fast parts cost money...........how fast do you want to go?
headers are going to have to be long tube and i would seriously think about investing some money into hardened push rods. Springs are a must.
some springs require you to get after market retainers....might as well spend the extra few dollars and get titanium...as long as you are down there, (and you have to take it off anyhow) your timing chain and sprocket too.....the way i figure it, why spend the time and effort to find out the hard way that replacing them is a good idea when you put the stock one back on just to to have it fail. as long as you have the heads in your hand you need to put the rocker arms on it any ways...might as well put some roller rockers on it........ as long as you have got the pulleys off you could put an underdrive back on.......thats sonething optional though... you might wind up needing a fuel pump and oil pump. both high volume.................i would get a torque converter eventually.....and if its a manual tranny....you can forget about a stock clutch........ but my only real suggestion is wait until you have the parts before you start ripping stuff apart....are you doing this your self?
i looked into swapping heads and cam on my car..ive got an 84 z28 that i toy with......i figured for the money and the time it took to make a 305 beefy why not get those extra 45 ccs' and start playing with that... find a block thats not cracked and start cleaning it up... then you can put parts on it and still drive your car every day....if its your daily driver........
thats my 2 cents
headers are going to have to be long tube and i would seriously think about investing some money into hardened push rods. Springs are a must.
some springs require you to get after market retainers....might as well spend the extra few dollars and get titanium...as long as you are down there, (and you have to take it off anyhow) your timing chain and sprocket too.....the way i figure it, why spend the time and effort to find out the hard way that replacing them is a good idea when you put the stock one back on just to to have it fail. as long as you have the heads in your hand you need to put the rocker arms on it any ways...might as well put some roller rockers on it........ as long as you have got the pulleys off you could put an underdrive back on.......thats sonething optional though... you might wind up needing a fuel pump and oil pump. both high volume.................i would get a torque converter eventually.....and if its a manual tranny....you can forget about a stock clutch........ but my only real suggestion is wait until you have the parts before you start ripping stuff apart....are you doing this your self?
i looked into swapping heads and cam on my car..ive got an 84 z28 that i toy with......i figured for the money and the time it took to make a 305 beefy why not get those extra 45 ccs' and start playing with that... find a block thats not cracked and start cleaning it up... then you can put parts on it and still drive your car every day....if its your daily driver........
thats my 2 cents
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
I will be gettting 1.6 roller tiped rockers and as far as timingsetup and springs etc it's all included in the aforementioned k-kit. The exhaust will be a set of shorties as i'm not wanting to go through the hassle and expense of finding a muffler shop to run the long tubes around the hydraulic clutch setup
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Those parts you mentioned will work real nice.
Pay attention to the fact that that cylinder head is sold individually. Ie, $389 for one head, $800 for the pair. Is that still worth it to you? The S/R head stands for "stock replacement", so expect stock replacement power sorta thing eh? I'd rather do up the stock heads (port and polish etc), and save a few hundred bucks.
Also, those heads came assembled, (with springs, retainers, etc), if the K kit comes with springs and retainers etc then..... Well, just make sure you read the fine print eh? You don't want to spend an extra $300 to have "extra" parts on hand - that's just silly.
Pay attention to the fact that that cylinder head is sold individually. Ie, $389 for one head, $800 for the pair. Is that still worth it to you? The S/R head stands for "stock replacement", so expect stock replacement power sorta thing eh? I'd rather do up the stock heads (port and polish etc), and save a few hundred bucks.
Also, those heads came assembled, (with springs, retainers, etc), if the K kit comes with springs and retainers etc then..... Well, just make sure you read the fine print eh? You don't want to spend an extra $300 to have "extra" parts on hand - that's just silly.
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: miami
Car: 1983 z28
Engine: '73 4-bolt 350
Transmission: t5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 with auburn and 28 spline axle
i had the upgrades to the carb as per the tech article from here. Wow! Sonix has set my mind to work as he's correct why pay for all the valvetrain stuff twice i guess i should port and polish my existing heads and use the upgraded parts from the k-kit ( I thought the S/R's would flow beeter than stock out of the box.)
----------
And yes i will be doing the dual snorkel also as per the tech article
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And yes i will be doing the dual snorkel also as per the tech article
Last edited by 83-84z28; Mar 5, 2007 at 05:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i didnt see the k kit...the link you have just took me to the cam.......i didnt even pay attention to the k kit link after you click your link. looks like everything is there............ you did see that the k kit is about 500 dollars though right....... but heres my theory....
Heads (2)= 800.00 (on the way low side, im not a fan of world....i would just port and polish yours, but then again i would not buy worlds heads ever.)
K-Kit (1)=500.00
1.6 roller rockers= 350.00
1,650.00 before digging in

part number:VC01cubic inches:350 Cubic Inchesliters:5.7 Litershorsepower:275 Horsepower @ 4,500 RPMtorque:328 ft/lbs @ 3,250 RPMcompression ratio:9.5 to 1block:4-bolt, cast iron, 4.000" borecrankshaft:Cast nodular, 3.480" strokehead, chamber size:Cast ironvalve sizes (i/e):1.940" / 1.500"camshaft lift (i/e):0.442" / 0.444" hydrauliccam duration (i/e):278 / 288 degreeswarranty:1-Year/12,000 mile limited warrantyprice:$1595.00
granted you will have to install the intake and all that is missing but realy, for the price of heads and cam on a 305 vurses a 350 long block.......350 is the way to go
.....and i would figure an extra 500 for unexpected expenses when doing so............... take a look at this though......and this motor was built from the ***** up ..bore stroke all the works...by lunati.......the numbers arent horrible but for gods sake look at the build they did to achieve..i highlighted some things in blue and red. this article is what turned me off to even messing with a 305 and turned me on to a 350. your numbers wont be near theirs because they re worked the entite thing ......but what ever here it is.......its just not worth it on a 305. lol i mean look at the numbers..... super built 305 vs stock plane jane 350.....the horse power is not too much different and the torque is damn close......slap a cam and heads in the 350.....it will kick lunatis 305 ***........
THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT!!!
Lunati SM-225
Why not use a smaller cam? Lunati says it's hard to move air through a small-bore motor with a restricted valve area like the 305. You need a bigger cam to make this small cylinder work, but there are limits due to the small displacement. Fortunately, the relatively long stroke for this displacement engine helps low-end torque, so the engine isn't all that cam sensitive.
Dyno Test ResultsLunati's engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow engine dyno, using the 200 rpm/second acceleration test schedule. All values are corrected to 29.92 inches Hg, 60°F dry air.Test fuel was 108 octane race gas. Peak amounts shown in bold.
Dyno Test Results
Lunati's engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow engine dyno, using the 200 rpm/second acceleration test schedule. All values are corrected to 29.92 inches Hg, 60*F dry air. Test fuel was 108 octane race gas. Peak amounts underlined.
Speed (rpm) Torque (lb-ft) Power (hp)
3000 324.3 185.2
3250 333.7 206.5
3500 342.0 227.9
3750 347.0 247.8
4000 352.1 268.2
4250 356.2 288.2
4500 351.9 301.5
4750 340.2 307.7
5000 333.8 317.8
5250 324.4 324.3
5500 313.0 327.8
5750 306.2 335.2
6000 297.3 339.6
6250 288.2 343.0
6500 258.4 319.8
sorry...didnt turn out the first time
Heads (2)= 800.00 (on the way low side, im not a fan of world....i would just port and polish yours, but then again i would not buy worlds heads ever.)
K-Kit (1)=500.00
1.6 roller rockers= 350.00
1,650.00 before digging in

part number:VC01cubic inches:350 Cubic Inchesliters:5.7 Litershorsepower:275 Horsepower @ 4,500 RPMtorque:328 ft/lbs @ 3,250 RPMcompression ratio:9.5 to 1block:4-bolt, cast iron, 4.000" borecrankshaft:Cast nodular, 3.480" strokehead, chamber size:Cast ironvalve sizes (i/e):1.940" / 1.500"camshaft lift (i/e):0.442" / 0.444" hydrauliccam duration (i/e):278 / 288 degreeswarranty:1-Year/12,000 mile limited warrantyprice:$1595.00
granted you will have to install the intake and all that is missing but realy, for the price of heads and cam on a 305 vurses a 350 long block.......350 is the way to go
.....and i would figure an extra 500 for unexpected expenses when doing so............... take a look at this though......and this motor was built from the ***** up ..bore stroke all the works...by lunati.......the numbers arent horrible but for gods sake look at the build they did to achieve..i highlighted some things in blue and red. this article is what turned me off to even messing with a 305 and turned me on to a 350. your numbers wont be near theirs because they re worked the entite thing ......but what ever here it is.......its just not worth it on a 305. lol i mean look at the numbers..... super built 305 vs stock plane jane 350.....the horse power is not too much different and the torque is damn close......slap a cam and heads in the 350.....it will kick lunatis 305 ***........
THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT!!!
Lunati's 343 hp 305 Build-up
Objective
Using traditional hop-up techniques, Lunati's goal was to achieve maximum performance at an affordable price from the 305 small-block in a non-emission-controlled environment. The engine should be capable of running on the street, with decent idle characteristics and low-end torque. For longevity and practicality, the engine ought to develop peak power at around 5500-6000 rpm. finally, the package needs to be reasonably priced because the high-buckers would just as soon spring for the larger displacement small-blocks.Objective
Short-Block
All 305 blocks have two-bolt main caps and use cast cranks. The Lunati 305 rotating assembly consists of a standard 3.48-inch stroke cast crank turned 0.010- or 0.020-inch under, indexed and balanced. Reconditioned stock rods are fitted with Mr.Gasket SPS bolts. Both crank and rods are supported by Michigan77 bearings, and are kept oiled by a Melling standard M55 oil pump. Silv-O-Lite Keith Black Signature Series pistons (PN 144) were chosen. Manufactured from high-silicon alloys, they combine light weight with superior detonation resistance and (compared to forged pistons) permit tighter wall clearances for improved oil control and quieter operation. On under-4.100-inch bore engines, Silv-O-Lite piston skirt clearances can be set as tight as 0.0015 to 0.0020 inch; yet their rigid skirt design and high-silicon alloy permits running the piston "looser" than a traditional casting if desired--as high as 0.0045 inch. These pistons yielded a 10.26:1 compression ratio, used with a 0.038-inch-thick head gasket, 0.010 piston (down) deck, and a 60 cc combustion chamber.
Silv-O-Lite pistons come machined for Spirolock piston pin retainers. Usually, floating the pin requires bushing the rod. But to keep costs down while retaining the floating pin feature that allows the homebuilder to assemble the rods onto the pistons himself, Lunati runs the floating pins "steel-on-steel," with no bushing. If that worries you, remember that Chevy did the same thing on the '69 Z28 302's and warranteed them for 50,000 miles. The key is maintaining 0.0003 to 0.0005 inch of pin-to-rod clearance, not to mention drilling the rod for pin oiling.
Another depature when using the Silv-O-Lite pistons is piston ring end-gap. These pistons make more horsepower by reflecting heat energy back into the combustion chamber. As a result, the top ring runs hotter and requires more clearance than usual. According to Silv-O-Lite, increasing the ring end-gap does not affect performance or oil control because normal end-gaps are realized at operating temperature. Conversely, failure to provide sufficient end-gap can cause a portion of the top piston land to break, as the ring ends butt and lock tight in the cylinder. Silv-O-Lite provides a "recommended ring gap" chart with its pistons for varying applications that recommends multiplying the bore diameter by approximately 0.0065 to get the recommended ring end-gap on a normally aspirated non-computer street engine. On Lunati's 0.030-over 305 (total bore= 3.766"), the end-gap with the chosen Speed-Pro plasma-moly "file-fit" 5/64-5/64-3/16 ringset ended up at 0.025 inch for the top ring and 0.014 for the second.
Cylinder Heads
Lunati used "generic" 305 iron cylinder heads (casting number=14014416, used on LG4 and HO engines), replacing the 1.84-inch stock valves with larger 1.94-inch valves, but kept the stock 1.50-inch exhaust valve size, treating both to a "good' standard valve job. They also ended up gasket-matching the heads and doing a little bowl work before installing Lunati high-performance springs, retainers, locks, screw-in studs, and pushrod guideplates.Silv-O-Lite pistons come machined for Spirolock piston pin retainers. Usually, floating the pin requires bushing the rod. But to keep costs down while retaining the floating pin feature that allows the homebuilder to assemble the rods onto the pistons himself, Lunati runs the floating pins "steel-on-steel," with no bushing. If that worries you, remember that Chevy did the same thing on the '69 Z28 302's and warranteed them for 50,000 miles. The key is maintaining 0.0003 to 0.0005 inch of pin-to-rod clearance, not to mention drilling the rod for pin oiling.
Another depature when using the Silv-O-Lite pistons is piston ring end-gap. These pistons make more horsepower by reflecting heat energy back into the combustion chamber. As a result, the top ring runs hotter and requires more clearance than usual. According to Silv-O-Lite, increasing the ring end-gap does not affect performance or oil control because normal end-gaps are realized at operating temperature. Conversely, failure to provide sufficient end-gap can cause a portion of the top piston land to break, as the ring ends butt and lock tight in the cylinder. Silv-O-Lite provides a "recommended ring gap" chart with its pistons for varying applications that recommends multiplying the bore diameter by approximately 0.0065 to get the recommended ring end-gap on a normally aspirated non-computer street engine. On Lunati's 0.030-over 305 (total bore= 3.766"), the end-gap with the chosen Speed-Pro plasma-moly "file-fit" 5/64-5/64-3/16 ringset ended up at 0.025 inch for the top ring and 0.014 for the second.
Cylinder Heads
Camshaft
Lunati installed one of its Streetmaster hydraulic non-roller-tappet grinds that offers reasonable idle quality with just a touch of that performance "rump-rump" so dear to our hearts. At least that's how it behaves in a benchmark 350; the cam is a tad more radical in a smaller displacement motor. To compensate for the engine's small displacement, the cam was installed 4 degrees advanced, and uses 1.5:1 ratio long-slot rockers.Lunati SM-225
Lift @ valveAdvertised duration0.050 durationInt/Exh seperationIntake lobe seperation0.477"275°225°108°104°
Why not use a smaller cam? Lunati says it's hard to move air through a small-bore motor with a restricted valve area like the 305. You need a bigger cam to make this small cylinder work, but there are limits due to the small displacement. Fortunately, the relatively long stroke for this displacement engine helps low-end torque, so the engine isn't all that cam sensitive.
Induction
Edelbrock's Performer RPM intake was used. This manifold pulls through 7000 rpm, but it's divided plenum also makes it work at low rpm. It has exhaust heat passages, but no EGR provisions or divorced choke stove pad. Edelbrock says the manifold is not 50-state smog-legal on most emission-controlled applications. The tall plenum won't clear the stock hood on late-model Camaros, either. Holley's model 0-4776 600 cfm double-pumper carb was used.Ignition
Lunati used a pre-computer ACCEL Blueprint HEI distributor with conventional mechanical and vacuum advance, along with ACCEL's in-cap, high-intensity coil and spiral-wound 8.8 wires. The ACCEL unit comes with extra mechanical advance weights and springs, and the vacuum advance is fully adjustable. For the full-throttle dyno test, the unit was run as delivered.Test Results
the engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow dyno using a generic set of 1 5/8-inch primary tube headers. The best results were obtained with the stock jetting and 38 degrees total timing, where a peak of 343 corrected horsepower at 6250 rpm was observed. The peak torque output of 356.2 lb-ft occurred at 4250 rpm. The engine made over 1 hp/cubic inch from 4500 through 6500 rpm, the highest rpm tested. It made over 300 lb-ft of torque from 3000 rpm (the lowest test point) through 5750 rpm.
Through all the tests, the engine idled smoothly at 750 rpm. Dynotech's technicians believe the engine would have more potential with less restrictive heads. They also think that the engine would perform better with a 650- or even 700-cfm carb, albeit at the cost of additional bottom-end sogginess.
Racing gas with a 108-octane level was used for all tests. This gas is not generally available for street cars. Assuming the use of 92- or 93-octane unleaded, you could get by with a true 9:1 to 9.5:1 compression ratio street motor when using cast-iron heads. The generally accepted rule of thumb is that you lose 12 to 15 hp for each point drop in compression-- so an otherwise identical 9¼:1 engine would be down about 15 hp from the results reported here. This lost power could be easily regained by using aluminum heads fitted with bore-clearing 1.94/1.50 or 1.55 valves, such as those offered by GM or Air Flow Research. Not only do the heads flow much better than 305 iron castings, but aluminum's superior heat-rejection characteristics allow 10:1 street engines on available unleaded premium pump gas. In any event, the end result is a 305 that will surprise quite a few late-model 350 owners.the engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow dyno using a generic set of 1 5/8-inch primary tube headers. The best results were obtained with the stock jetting and 38 degrees total timing, where a peak of 343 corrected horsepower at 6250 rpm was observed. The peak torque output of 356.2 lb-ft occurred at 4250 rpm. The engine made over 1 hp/cubic inch from 4500 through 6500 rpm, the highest rpm tested. It made over 300 lb-ft of torque from 3000 rpm (the lowest test point) through 5750 rpm.
Through all the tests, the engine idled smoothly at 750 rpm. Dynotech's technicians believe the engine would have more potential with less restrictive heads. They also think that the engine would perform better with a 650- or even 700-cfm carb, albeit at the cost of additional bottom-end sogginess.
Dyno Test ResultsLunati's engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow engine dyno, using the 200 rpm/second acceleration test schedule. All values are corrected to 29.92 inches Hg, 60°F dry air.Test fuel was 108 octane race gas. Peak amounts shown in bold.
Speed (rpm)Torque (lb-ft)Power (hp)3000324.3185.23250333.7206.53500342.0227.93750347.0247.84000352.1268.24250356.2288.24500351.9301.54750340.2307.75000333.8317.85250324.4324.35500313.0327.85750306.2335.26000297.3339.66250288.2343.06500258.4319.8
----------Dyno Test Results
Lunati's engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow engine dyno, using the 200 rpm/second acceleration test schedule. All values are corrected to 29.92 inches Hg, 60*F dry air. Test fuel was 108 octane race gas. Peak amounts underlined.
Speed (rpm) Torque (lb-ft) Power (hp)
3000 324.3 185.2
3250 333.7 206.5
3500 342.0 227.9
3750 347.0 247.8
4000 352.1 268.2
4250 356.2 288.2
4500 351.9 301.5
4750 340.2 307.7
5000 333.8 317.8
5250 324.4 324.3
5500 313.0 327.8
5750 306.2 335.2
6000 297.3 339.6
6250 288.2 343.0
6500 258.4 319.8
sorry...didnt turn out the first time
Last edited by fbodyorbust; Mar 5, 2007 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Dyno Test Results
Lunati's engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow engine dyno, using the 200 rpm/second acceleration test schedule. All values are corrected to 29.92 inches Hg, 60*F dry air. Test fuel was 108 octane race gas. Peak amounts underlined.
Speed (rpm) Torque (lb-ft) Power (hp)
3000 324.3 185.2
3250 333.7 206.5
3500 342.0 227.9
3750 347.0 247.8
4000 352.1 268.2
4250 356.2 288.2
4500 351.9 301.5
4750 340.2 307.7
5000 333.8 317.8
5250 324.4 324.3
5500 313.0 327.8
5750 306.2 335.2
6000 297.3 339.6
6250 288.2 343.0
6500 258.4 319.8
sorry...didnt turn out the first time
Lunati's engine was tested on Dynotech's SuperFlow engine dyno, using the 200 rpm/second acceleration test schedule. All values are corrected to 29.92 inches Hg, 60*F dry air. Test fuel was 108 octane race gas. Peak amounts underlined.
Speed (rpm) Torque (lb-ft) Power (hp)
3000 324.3 185.2
3250 333.7 206.5
3500 342.0 227.9
3750 347.0 247.8
4000 352.1 268.2
4250 356.2 288.2
4500 351.9 301.5
4750 340.2 307.7
5000 333.8 317.8
5250 324.4 324.3
5500 313.0 327.8
5750 306.2 335.2
6000 297.3 339.6
6250 288.2 343.0
6500 258.4 319.8
sorry...didnt turn out the first time
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