What 1.6's will work???
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Minocqua, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 350 - Approx 300hp
Transmission: 700R4 (Soon to be Built)
Axle/Gears: 3.73's & Eaton Posi
What 1.6's will work???
I have an 89 RS with a 305 RS TBI and am interested in making a step up in the valve train. I am interested in 1.6 full roller's and i think perform makes a set to fit at a good price. I herd that i might have to grind into the hole in the head for them to fit, and i really dont want to do that. Can anyone tell me of a set that works with no modifycations, at a fairly reasonalble price, can sombody please shed some light on the subject???
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From: Flowood,MS
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Axle/Gears: G80,10 bolt 3.42's
What cam are you running.I think if you change the rockers to 1.6 ur pretty much gonna have to do a little head work on the stock iron heads.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Is that the case with the stock cam???????? I too am interested in the 1.6's, am not ready for a Cam change, or head work yet, but might do a rocker change.......Is there any dyno test on just a rocker change from 1.5 to 1.6 (No other changes) ???????????? I have searched for 1.6, but did not see anything like that....Thanks for any answers to this....Tom
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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From: Minocqua, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 350 - Approx 300hp
Transmission: 700R4 (Soon to be Built)
Axle/Gears: 3.73's & Eaton Posi
This is the factory cam, and to answer some other questions yes there is enough room for piston to valve clearance and with 1.6's you wont max out your valve lift, i am just interested in getting 1.6's that i dont have to grind the head to get in smoothly. Like does anyone know if Summit one's fit or Jegs's 1.6's fit. i just dont wana grind into the head.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
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From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Samrs350, im with ya on this, I too want to do no grinding, just bolt in....I was asking the same question as you BTW.......Tom
Joined: Sep 2005
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I too want to do no grinding, just bolt in

Seriously.... Think about it. What is "rocker ratio" anyway?
It's the ratio of the distance between the rocker stud and the valve stem, to the distance between the rocker stud and the push rod end.
The distance between the valve stem and the rocker stud doesn't change when you put a rocker on, does it?
So how does a rocker change the ratio?
The only way it can.... it does it by shortening the side toward the push rod. Now you've got the ratio of the same original distance on the valve side of the rocker, to a shorter distance on the push rod side; which gives you a higher ratio.
Where you have to grind, maybe, is the inside of the hole where the push rod goes through the head. Depending on how close the push rods already are to that side of their little hole, the change in ratio might shorten the push rod side of the rockers by enough to move the push rods inward toward the rocker studs enough that on your particular casting, one or more of the push rods will rub.
So, by the VERY NATURE of changing the ratio, the possibility of needing to grind is introduced. There's really nothing that can be done to change that.
In my own personal experience, it's about half-and-half odds as to whether grinding is necessary or not. It's determined by the precision of YOUR particular castings. So it's not really something that can be predicted. I've seen 2 heads on the same motor with the same casting date, where one head cleared just fine and all 8 on the other head hit. You just never know until you try it.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
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From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Well Sofa, thanks for the explanation...Yes, I do want my cake, and to eat it too...I was under the idea that certain brands would clear with no grinding, but I do see your point about the same model, different heads and all...I have had this problem with my SFC's, mine have clearance issues, my buddy who has the same car, and same SFC's does not have a problem.......Thanks, Tom
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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From: Minocqua, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 350 - Approx 300hp
Transmission: 700R4 (Soon to be Built)
Axle/Gears: 3.73's & Eaton Posi
I am well aware of the geomoetry of a valve train i was just hoping sombody had luck with a set and could give a recommendation of what works good. that's all. I think i will try my luck with Perform's 1.6 set for centerbolt heads.
Thanks
Thanks
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From: Oregon
Car: 1984 Trans Am T-tops
Engine: Chev. 350 bored .030 (355)
Transmission: GM T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: Stock 10bolt 3.55
Well Sofa, thanks for the explanation...Yes, I do want my cake, and to eat it too...I was under the idea that certain brands would clear with no grinding, but I do see your point about the same model, different heads and all...I have had this problem with my SFC's, mine have clearance issues, my buddy who has the same car, and same SFC's does not have a problem.......Thanks, Tom
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,899
Likes: 2,437
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
No.
The ones with only the roller tip, still have the stock style ball fulcrum. This is clearly not "better" than a roller-bearing axle.
The ones with only the roller tip, still have the stock style ball fulcrum. This is clearly not "better" than a roller-bearing axle.
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