The other day i was driving on the highway and as i accelerated, my car had a big hiccup. I had a code 34 and my voltage dropped to 12V.

I had the alternator tested and it was toast, and it was only 1 month old. So i bought a new alternator, hook it up and turn the key and my new alternator fried!!!! Why is this happening, would a short somewhere in my car blow a new alternator?? HELP.

 

You may check that you have the connector on correctly and not on reversed/backwards and that you don't have a loose ground.

Pat

 

I've checked all my grounds and they are good. I checked my connections, they are in correctly, i can't put the two wire plug in backwards. Is there a way to test the two wire plug without the car running, because my battery is almost dead and doesn't have enough juice to turn over. (FYI Battery is a month old and tested fine)

 

I installed headers and they are not wrapped. I noticed several fuseable links running on the passenger side close to my headers, could these links cause this problem?

 

Anything electrical that has the possiblity of shorting can wreak all kinds of havoc. Are the wires bare?

The fusible links would tend to blow/burn in two if they got a good enough jolt, but if the insulation on any of them is melted off, broken, or showing bare wire, they should be corrected immediately.

I would need to look at a schematic to check how to test the alternator connector. I'm currently at work and won't be home until around 5:00 PM CST. Sorry I'm not more help than this.

Pat

 

I found the wire from the alternator to the starter welded to my headers. I fixed the wire and everything works now.