I did a search and found that some had kept the stock one in along with the aftermarket, and some had spliced wires so the pump was on whenever the key was forward.

I dont have any room for two senders, and I dont want my pump on all the time.
The port down by the oil filter is a pita and theres just no room by the dizzy for a T.

Is there any other way?

 

It will run fine without the oil pressure switch, as long as the FP relay is working properly. By your inquisition, It sounds as if you may not have the correct information about the control system on your vehicle.

 

Well I'm not sure if its a switch or not, I know its a sender. The car's a 91. With the sender removed the pump only works once at startup, and not again. With it in the pump works, but I think the stock gauge is ruined. Or maybe the sender.
I also think I shorted out the gauge I just bought, so I'm off to buy a mechanical one. Shouldve done that in the first place. With the mechanical sender I think I can fit both on a T I have, and that should take care of everything.

 

Can we assume that you've got a non-stock induction system and distributor?

 

Why yes.

 

That information would have been useful to Vader when he made his reply.

 

I dont follow. The stock motor didnt have anything in that port by the dizzy.
I also have to run an oil line to the supercharger in the near future after I feel the car is ready for it.

I simply want to know if there is a good way to get around the fuel pump shutoff. Guess I won't be getting a good answer. Just a bunch of spam.

 

It's hard to provide an answer when you haven't provided any information. Vader assumed you were talking about a stock car, so his answer was incorrect.

The best thing to do would be to relocate the oil pressure switch to one of the other locations on the block.

 

Wait till someone conforms this, as its a trick i've only done once or twice, and i've slept since then.

I believe on your OBD1 (diagnostics port) you can send 12+ volts to the lower left terminal and the fuel pump will run for the entire time its applied.

 

If you are also running a supercharger on the car, The port for the back of the block is not the best spot to draw oil from. Most supercharger kits give you a T adapter by the oil filter to draw oil from. Vader's answer would have been 100% correct if the initial question was ask properly.. You won't get spam, only help or answers.

 

I dont think the 91's had a sender and a switch did they?
Right under my name it says blow through 383.
Can you use the ports on the center left and right of the block for supplying or reading oil pressure? I heard they arent the best spots, and usually used for knock sensors.
The obd1 port would be great, but does sound funny.....maybe worth a try?
On my last setup I used a T by the filter and it was real messy. Hard to get a wrench in there and the sensor rubbed on the block or the tranny, I cant remember.
Using a T by the distributor isnt working for me, it gets in the way of the dizzy ear and will make it impossible to adjust timing.
What I would like to do is do away with the stock sender, use the filter port for the supercharger, and the dizzy for the aftermarket sender. I will be drag racing it and I think you need a cutoff switch in the rear, in case you wreck.
Apeiron-Now for those center ports, maybe they would be a good spot for the stock sender? Maybe not the most accurate, but good enough to keep the pump on until pressure got real low??
I will also be putting my A1000 pump on with the blower, so that will do away with the stock sender, but I'm not putting the blower on until I get a stronger rear, tires, cage, etc.

Ibmtech-Are you serious with the 18lbs and nitrous??? Wow! Your page isnt working.....turbine engine tech huh? I used to be an F-16 mechanic...

 

All fuel injected cars had an oil pressure fuel pump switch. Some years they were integrated with the gauge sender, some years they were seperate.

The ports on the right and left of the block just above the oil pan are coolant drain ports, you won't find any oil behind them.

Some blocks have an oil port on the front above the timing cover. If yours doesn't, then your only choices are beside the distributor or above the oil filter. I'm having a hard time believing that there isn't some way you could make either of those work with some combination of fittings.

 

This THREAD shows the front oil port Apeiron is talking about. It may be handy to connect to the blower. It will flow more GPM than the oil pump will at idle.

 

 

This thread is kind of confusing.
sounds like he is talking about the oil pressure gauge sender, which on his car would have been above the oil filter in a combo sensor that included the oil pressure switch for the backup power for the fuel pump. The oil pressure switch doesn't cut the power when oil pressure is lost.

what is your car doing as we speak, with the stock sender?

 

Well theres only one sender, must be the switch sender combo. Installed and plugged in, no pump issues, unplugged and the pump only works initially. Well i did end up getting the plug out from the oil filter port. So all is well right now, until I look for a spot for the supercharger oil feed. Maybe that front port would be good? They recommend using the filter port though because it is freshly filtered.