I just went today to go and have my car dynoed and was very suprised to see that my car is only making 300whp and 342wtq!! I have a 350 block (2 bolt main) bored .30 over, stroked, 72cc trickflow 23 degree angle heads, forged flattop pistions, forged rods, balanced rotating assembly(by machine shop), 1.6rr, true double roller timing chain, roller lifters, hardened pushrods, Hsr intake, comp cams 230/236 duration .570/.576 lift with a 113 lsa, msd 6al box (no limiter chip and all new tune up stuff. What gives? Is my car reall in need of a tune that bad I know that I need injectors and a fuel pump but I thought I would at least dyno like 350hp+ to the wheels untuned? I mean the only things left are bigger TB, injectors, fuel pump, afpr, and a good tune. Is it just me or does something not seem right here?

 

whats the compression ratio?

was this through an auto or manual? if auto, do you have a large stall converter? a big converter that doesnt lock up will cost you some power on a dyno. i know 10 second cars that have dyno'd really low numbers because of big converters.

Also was this a mustang dyno or dynojet? mustang dynos i have heard tend to dyno alot less than dynojets

i'm sure you need a tune if it is untuned. that will be 50hp right there. that combo should be making near 375whp atleast i'd say if compression is over 10 to 1. sounds like the combo i planned on running. i wanted near 400whp with the auto and i may go to a bigger cam

 

Out of all that, the only things relevant to making power are:

383, trickflow heads, HSR, 230/236 .570/.576 roller cam.

You haven't said anything about your exhaust.

 

190cc heads?
230/236* cam? That's a pretty standard combo, you're looking at ~400HP, that sounds about right.
You might be a tad low, but I wouldn't set your expectations too high.

If the car wasn't going lean on the dyno, then bigger injectors and pump probably won't get you any more power.

 

The guy said he cut it alittle short because it was going lean. I have a full aftermarket exhuast, shorty headers, no cats....... Actually now that I'm looking at the graph alittle more the guy stoped it alot shorter than I thought he stopped at 4500rpms and my cam lives from 2000-6000. So am I around where I should be or is something still wrong besides my fuel setup?
----------
Oh and its going through a t-56, 6 speed tranny with a spec stage 3 clutch.

 

Id say you're almost certainly lacking fuel. Whether or not its due to lack of fuel delivery or tuning is another matter. A stock fuel pump may not be enough fuel for you. The HSR comes with pretty decent injectors i would think. I would talk to someone who has tuned a HSR on a dyno and have them do it for you. I'm suprised the car went on a dyno without having someone there with the stuff to tune it.

Of course if you have freidnly dyno access, you can play with it yourself if you kinda know what you're doin.
As for the effects of tuning, reading a little HR magazine will teach you to use parts that compliment each other. Even on a motor that makes 400 HP, 25% can easily be lost due to poor tuning and/or a single bad part choice.
So start by tuning, if the numbers still arnt where you want them then start trackin down inadequate parts.

 

4500 RPMS??? uh yea, that explains a bit. You'll make the big HP above 5000RPM. Get that fueling taken care of

 

Well I asked the guys there if they could tune it in alittle better for me but they wont touch my computer cause its not an ls1 pcm or something? So I have no idea where to start with getting it tuned I was looking around town for someone with enough guts to tune my car for me(so far no luck). I'm looking to get alittle head start in the right direction by letting someone else tune it first. Then I want to learn to tune it myself but I figured that if someone esle got it to be around about where it should be then I can tune it up alittle here and there.

 

Doesnt sound all that unrealistic with the RPM and... stock chip? What about the base timing? It might be running totally wrong when its trying to make some real power. Is it a MAF or SD setup? You didnt answer about the compression either, that setup should be 10.5:1+. I'm thinking based on that 72cc number you're at around 10:1?

Anyway its going to need a datalog to see where its at, tuning, and repeat several times.

 

Hi,

I think what I'd do is install a good pump.
Jump the injector size to at least #30.
Get a starter chip from MadZ-Performless or a few other
knowledgable people giving them your specs and updated
fuel system.
They have libraries of setups like yours and continue to update and upgrade them.

That gives you a safe base to start tuning your setup.
Take it back to the same dyno and you'll probably be
pleasantly surprized.
Thats how I started and starting to learn how to do it
myself
Look at my setup, although mine is FWH but expect quite
abit more. I have more camming and a higher Comp ratio
than you do but not so far apart.
HTH

later

 

well 300whp at 4500rpms is very good start. you'll make ALOT more once the fuel is taken care of. definately mess with the tune and add more fuel up topend and then dyno it again, or datalog it to see how the motor is running. keep doing that till you get it close to where it should be or to the point the stock fuel pump fails or injectors max out. you may want bigger injectors like 30 lbs, and it may want a new high flowing fuel pump.

 

I'm not sure he needs injectors at this point, unless the ones he has are bad. If its a MAF and stock chip, it going way lean is no surprise. Need to add a bunch of fuel and probably adjust the MAF default table.

 

An AFPR is also a nice tuning tool to have as to fueling
problems. When injector duty cycle starts pushing 85
percent or higher though, IMHO, a bigger pump and
injectors are needed.
Am running the 340M Walbro and kit with SVO injectors.
Seem to be a good and popular choice.

You don't need a stock pump or to small injectors maxing
or going bad at WOT under load on the Dyno or the street.

It only takes an instant to take out a pistons or top rings

Later

 

MadMax,

Agree on the fueling tables and stock chip but assuming
does not have the equipment to datalog.read and burn
a new chip.
On the Maf, we Will, just have to agree to disagree. Especially on 350-say to 412 c.i.
Don't want to get into a ------- match

Just thought starter chip would be a good start to getting
up to speed. Not talking about TPIS-Hyperteck and the list
is long for that junk.

Later

 

Ok well I know my car is a SD not a MAF. And I don't have the equipment to tune my own car. Nor do I know where to start.

 

You initially didn't specify MAF or MAP but fueling problems pretty much stay the same.
Maf is more forgiving as to modifications than SD until
you get into some high flow setups.

You start getting carried away and yes the Sensor is the
bottle neck.

I'd still start with starter chip. Just make sure you give
them (ALL) info on your setup.

If you want to learn to do it from there your going to have
to invest in some tuning equipment and be prepared for
a steep learning curve to do it rite.
Believe me
Or find someone with the equipment and knowledge and
your dating his sister and he's on your side!!

Later

Irocing

 

I dont know what part of the US your in cause your thing over there<<<<<<<< doesnt say where you live but another place to try is www.lsracingchips.com he knows alot about the HSR and has done a few peoples chip here in the boards. He may be close to you. He did mine also and I have a 383 HSR motor.

give him a try....pretty reasonable prices too.

 

First things first. Make sure you're not losing fuel pressure @ WOT. Once you verify that, then tune, or get it tuned. It's gonna need a chip burned regardless obviously, but I'd rule out all possible mechanical problems first.

 

Well I tried to call that guy at www.lsracingchips.com I left a message on the message machine but he never got back too me? And the web site doesn't work for some strange reason.