intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
#1
intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
i recently did the top half of a 305 crossfire motor. ran great untill it started to run rough at idle. pulled all the plugs and had 1 oil fouled plug in cilinder 5. i went right to the intake manifold. took off the upper intake and found that my bolts have loosened up. also there seemed to be a greenish color in the gas that was left. next day dried up and seemed to be slippery. coolant got in there . i didn't use any thread sealer as per the manual if i remember correctly. sould i use permatex with teflon sealer on the bolts or a thread locker to keep them from loosening. what are your thoughts on using a permatex high tack sray sealant on the gaskets. last time i did them dry except for coolant ports with permatex right stuff. also did the v seal with the same stuff. also as long as i am in there i would like to retorque heads. good idea or bad. i used thread sealer on those bolts for sure. if i retorque will it break the seal after about 500 miles, or should i leave them alone? i would also like to make sure that i got the valves adjusted properly after the rebuild.had the heads redone. car has suposed 45000 miles. light build up of carbon around the top of the cilinder walls. what is no valve lash, when the rocker doesnt bouce against the push rod?then i did one turn past that point to do the adjustment. just want to make sure they are not too tight and not seating the valves properly. sould i use a locktight on the rocker bolts?b i really would hate to do this over again after this. thanks for the replies in advance.
#2
Re: intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
permatex high temp black on the front and back ridges
do not use a gasket for the front and back ridges, if you got one in your kit, throw it in the trash can. use only a 3/16" thick strand of permatex
use some sort of tacky sticky substance to keep your other gaskets in place....meant only for that though, you don't need to superglue them down, just enough so they don't slip around when you put on the manifold.
removable strength loctite or equivalent on the bolts...small amount, bottom part of the thread
if you need to retorque the head bolts the sealer didn't do its job anyways, so just check to see they are the proper torque and you should be good to go.
do not use a gasket for the front and back ridges, if you got one in your kit, throw it in the trash can. use only a 3/16" thick strand of permatex
use some sort of tacky sticky substance to keep your other gaskets in place....meant only for that though, you don't need to superglue them down, just enough so they don't slip around when you put on the manifold.
removable strength loctite or equivalent on the bolts...small amount, bottom part of the thread
if you need to retorque the head bolts the sealer didn't do its job anyways, so just check to see they are the proper torque and you should be good to go.
#3
Re: intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
thanks for the reply. i just took off the lower intake and the 5 cilinder gasket gave way. seems they did move a little when i set the intake down. after time the failure.also the bolts for the inner lower intake where wet. will lock tight hold back fluid or is that gas that got down in there because of them comming somewhat loose? and your suggestion is to not use the high tack all the way through the intake gasket. just spot it on to hold it and seal the ports with high temp black and the v of the engine. the right stuff by permatex seemed to do the trick though or after time would i have had a problem
#4
Re: intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
tack it on and use high temp only around the water ports, and the v of the engine. permatex high temp RTV will be fine, just make sure you put plenty on the V, as oil leaks can be confusing around the back of the engine, where all oil leaks are possible.....oil pressure sending unit, distributor, valve covers. If you're not sure if you're using enough....use more =)
I don't understand what you mean by the bolts being wet. were they wet when you removed them? all around the bolt or just on top?
I don't understand what you mean by the bolts being wet. were they wet when you removed them? all around the bolt or just on top?
#5
Re: intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
all around the bolt, hole length. those are sealed holes right, no coolant runs through the passages? if so those bolts must have loosened up quite a bit.im guesing they where at about 30-37 ft. lbs. didnt check but i should've.about half a turn to torque to 45 ft. lbs. and you say tack it on, is the high temp spray by permatex sufficiant, or other products. what would you use
Last edited by 82 recarooo; 07-24-2007 at 10:18 PM.
#6
Re: intake manifold sealing and valve adjusting. help
torque spec is 25-45 or something like that....that actual range too, it doesn't pin it down to any specific number in that range.
no coolant runs through those passages to my knowledge.
edit: anything to just hold the gaskets in place while you put on the intake is sufficient. i used an autozone brand tacky glue spray thing
no coolant runs through those passages to my knowledge.
edit: anything to just hold the gaskets in place while you put on the intake is sufficient. i used an autozone brand tacky glue spray thing
Last edited by Synful; 07-24-2007 at 10:24 PM.
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