I hope that enough of it was made HERE to warrant all that searching for a unit not made in China.
Anyway, the instructions say to use either mineral oil [for R-12], or PAG [for R-134A]. No mention of Ester Oil.
My system is full of Ester Oil, as it is compatible with all known refrigerants, even the organic ones.
Is it OK, in your opinions, to put in those two ounces of Ester oil, and go ahead with the installation? I will be using R-134A, but if I find that extra one pound of wonderful R-12 in the future, I will then have the three necessary to refill it with the real stuff.

Thank You,

Seth

 

Do you have the equipment to fill R12? If not i woud just fill the system with R-134a.

Also are you replacing the accumulator and the orffice tube, along with vaccuming down the system? These steps are very important to the life of the new compressor.

 

Do you need one can or one pound of R-12?

 

I seem to be one pound short.

If I had gone to the Hamfest in N.J. last week, I certainly would have secured the R-12. In the recent past, I have gotten this stuff at these Hamfests for $15/container.

As a new or rebuilt compressor needs to bed in, I will be leaking a bit for the first week after installation, so I am best off initially with R-134A. Then I can switch to something else. I was very happy with Envirosafe, as it works at very low pressures, and does not react with moisture.

I have secured a new receiver/dryer and a variable orifice valve. A 'V.O.V.' seems better suited for the higher-pressure R-134A.

I guess I need to borrow a vacuum pump. A long time ago, when a can of R-12 was cheaper than a can of Pepsi, I would simply chase the air out of the system with an entire can of freon. Always seemed to do the job, as, at least in the case of the home-made A.C. system in my Triumph TR-7, the system would get so cold, that the car could double as a beer cooler.

BTW, I have the manifold gauge set, for what its worth.

Seth

 

It is up and running with R-134A. The V.O.V. is an interesting addition, that I might need to remove.
It seems to restrict cooling performance to 60 degree vent temp, until under-hood heat soaks the system a bit, building more head pressure in the compressor. Then it magically gives a 45 degree vent temp. The valve is the only explanation for this wierd happening, as I would normally expect an opposite problem. A dirt clog might be an all-the-time issue.

As a matter of fact, the low pressure side seems to stay at 25 pounds and high at 250, warmed up, with hood opened, even when I fill it up with an extra ouce or so. Pressures change and then equalize back to these readings. Guess the valve is opening under higher pressure, to improve cooling and reduce pressure.

Also, cycle switch is set to 23 lbs, and works as needed until warmed up, rarely cycling after that.

Is the V.O.V. supposed to work like this?
And is a fixed unit better? It is obviously more reliable.

Thoughts?

Seth

 

I hate to push, but if I knew the answer, I would not have asked.

Also, were the heck can I get the rebuild kit for the windshield washer pump? It is integrated into the wiper motor assembly, and it seems that the local chains have given up selling this once-common item.

Seth

 

You mean this KIT?
Auto Zone sells the whole pump too.