Apparently they don't play well with each other.

Question is do I need to get the head checked or can I simply replace the valve(s). No pics yet. Those'll come later today.

 

OUCH! Pistons cracked? I imagine the valve guide is shot Heads most likely need to be went over carefully.

 

Actually i'm about an hour away from final disassembly. Cylinder 3 got the kiss of death. I went from 210psi to 20psi. Pushrods are still straight and the studs did not pull. All that's left is a bent valve or possibly broken rings but I highly doubt the rings said cianara.

This sucks that I already messed up my Eliminators. Stupidity. I forgot to shift and bounced off the rev limiter (6600rpm) several times. Nothing happened on any other cylinder so at this point i'm only removing the single head.
Right now i'm on hold with comp cams about different valve springs. I don't want this to happen again. See what happens when you cut corners?

 

What cam was that?
I don't think revving it that high would have hit the valves against the pistons, unless something else let go to let the valves hit the pistons. Well hey, post back in 3hrs with a picture and we'll see eh?

 

Cam is
XFI custom 224/230 .531/.534 112 plus i'm running 1.6RR.

Comp cams just told me that most likely I didn't overpower the spring but that I most likely over powered the lifters. He said that hydraulic rollers can only spin up to around 6500 at the most.
He suggested lifters 871-16
and springs 977-16

Supposedly i'll be able to spin to 7000-7200 with those.

I'll post back with the pictures. Hopefully I don't have to pull the engine.

 

That cam is out of steam by 6200 at most isn't it??
Ahh, solid rollers yea, good idea. But what cam? You can't *really* run a hydraulic roller cam with solid rollers - can you? I know with a flat tappet it's a bad idea unless you set the lash SUPER tight.

 

The XFI cams are not designed to spin to high RPMs. They have SUPER aggressive ramps, and will DEFINITELY float the valves. They are designed to work with typical FI systems, which don't do real well over 6000 RPMs anyway.

If your combo requries that you run very far past that, which can be verified with dyno runs or time slips using different shift RPMs, then I'd suggest getting something with somewhat milder ramps. Or, going to a solid roller setup, with 1.55" springs.

 

Well I was planning on going with solid rollers and I still may but here are the pics.
What could have possibly caused this?
BTW - There's absolutely no damage to the head or valves. I guess they never kissed.

 

Camera phones suck, I have no idea what you're trying to show. Scratch in the bore? Head gasket is dented up? I'm not sure what i'm seeing there.
Oh, it just focused on the wiring in the background and blurred the bores there. Can you spell it out?

 

It's actually a digital camera. The stupid flash kept washing out the picture.
It looks like i'm missing part of my piston. It's no longer a true circle.
In that same area where it's missing a piece are some scratches in the cylinder wall.
I'll continue removing the engine tomorrow. For now I just need to cry. By the weekend I should have some much closer pictures of the piston.

 

What was your top ring gap?

 

 

I don't remember. I bought the size rings that my engine shop said that I needed. Kind of strange numbers too.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

He claimed that he just honed it and that the stock sized rings would work fine. Is there a possibility that he messed up by giving me the wrong info?

 

What pistons are they? If your ring gap was too small, the ring ends would butt together when they expanded, forcing them outward against the cylinder wall and putting stress on the ring lands on the pistons. Hypereutectic pistons transfer more heat to the rings than stock cast pistons do, so typically a larger ring gap than stock is needed.

 

Factory 92 350 flattops. Forged aluminum I believe.

Mahle.

 

Are they factory, or are they Mahle?

 

These came with Mahle from the factory. At least that's what my machinist said and what was reported to me on this forum.

 

MELTED!!! It burned off. HAHAHAHAHAHA. Must've run lean. That crap on the cylinder is actually piston material melted to it.

Oh what fun. Forged my gluteus maximus!!!

 

More likely the broken piece was wedged in there and got smeared into the cylinder wall.

 

I just dropped most everything off at the shop. He said they're hypereutectic pistons.

Anyway, Here are a coule of better pics of the damage. The hole goes all the way through the piston. I also did find that 2 valves tapped different pistons. I get to look into that as well.
Also, every single one of my rod bearings were loose due to detonation. I gotta say it sure was a fun drive before and during this happening. Sure didn't feel like I was missing a cylinder.