ok, so i bougt this 87 iroc a week ago. towed it home (had no battery and previous owner said it wouldnt start) so, i found out that the steering column was replaced and instantly thought it was a VATS issue. then i did a little more research and found out that GM did not introduce VATS until 1988, a year after my car was made.

so here is what is going on. I put a battery in the car and it cranks over. i shot some ether (starter fluid) into the intake anf it fired, but wouldnt stay running. I changed out the fuel filter (cuz its only 8 bucks and 15 minutes). I made sure my fuel pump was priming (i can hear it when i turn the car to on position) checked all my fuses under the dash, they were all good.

for one reason or another my car isnt getting fuel, im gunna go check to make sure the injectors are getting power, then come and see if yall have any suggestions? does this car have more than one fuel pump? or something i dont know about the fuel system?

also, its the Lb9 5.0 TPI w/ 700R4

 

check the fuse by the battery. it supplies power to the ecm. without it, it will crank but not start.

 

where exactly is this fuse by the battery? im gunna go look by the battery for a fuse right now.

 

checked 30 amp fuse next to battery, it was fine. sadly lol. that wold have been an easy fix, any other ideas?

 

92whiteZ28

Basic Checks:
Timing - 0 TDC on the balancer should correspond to dizzy rotor pointing to #1 Cylinder post. Got to have this. Check cap post for corrosion.
Do you get as spark when cranking? Get in line spark checker and have a helper crank engine while you observe.
SES light - what does do? Ignition key Off to On - it should light-up, blink off, and stay solid until engine starts.
Does your tach wiggle a bit while engine is cranking??

For engine to start it must have:
1) Static compression in all cylinders - simple static compression check.
2) Proper ignition timing - verify TDC vs. dizzy vs. #1 Cyl position.
3) Good, adequate fuel atomization - injectors firing? Check injectors firing with a test light or DVM. Injector connector one side should have solid +12 V the other side should pulse on-off-on when engine is cranking. Note that OFF durations are very short.
4) Fuel pressure? Just because you can hear pump turning does not mean that you have adequate fuel pressure. It is very common for the fuel hose inside tank between pump and feed through to rout completely. TPI has a fuel pressure test valve. Rent fuel pressure tester at auto parts store. FP should be about 39 to 45 psi for a stock pump.

Go through these checks and report your findings.

//RF

 

sonds like i got some work ahead of me, im about to learn how to do all that stuff. yay.

 

ok, i have zero spark. i changed the disty cap, and the ignition module. i still have no spark. what else can i do to produce spark? i dont know if the disty is bad or what. is there anything else i can do other than changing the distributor to make sure i have spark?

 

92whiteZ28

You may have a reluctor coil going bad on you. Did you see tach needle wiggle while you were cranking engine??? Probably not. Did you check if ignition coil get +12 Volts when ign key is in run or start position?
Reluctor coil is inside dizzy and tells ignition module when to fire. Bad reluctor coil will cause both spark and injectors not to fire. You can check reluctor coil with DVM - very easy. Coil resistance should be between 500 and 1500 Ohms depending on application. If you get infinity or zero ohms your coil is shot. Your options are is to either replace reluctor coil or get rebuild dizzy. In both case you have to remove dizzy.
Follow proper procedure for dizzy removal. Turn engine until TDC on #1 Cyl and mark rotor position on dizzy, before removing it from engine. Do not rotate engine while dizzy is out!

http://info.rockauto.com/Airtex/4P1190.jpg


See this tread
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...k-but-not.html

//RF