I have a zz4 shortblock w AFR 195, Preformer RPM air gap and Vic Jr intake, 750 DP

I am looking for a hydraulic or solid flat tappet cam that will make power to 6200. I would like the broadest flattest torque as possible.

I also have a complete solid roller set up less cam. If you know of a good solid roller chime in also.

Car weights 3,040lbs wet with driver. t-10 close ratio, various rear end ratios.

Thanks

 

Street driver or race only?

What parts do you have for the solid roller? ie. do the lifters have the slots cut in them for oiling? If I were you, i'd use the solid roller, but i'd groove the lifter bores if you don't have the grooved lifters.

You'll need some big valve springs for that though, and the stiff pushrods, and the pricey cam. That'll definitely be the most expensive and best way to go.

Decide which style you want first, then we can throw out suggestions for the cam. I'd guess a solid with 235/240 @.050, around 112LSA to get the flattest power curve, and the most lift possible.

I'm going the opposite way, tighter LSA for a max peaky curve. A close ratio trans can keep you in that tight powerband best

 

Car is a race only piece. Road race car. GM recommened a 6,300 red line for the zz4.

I have a solid roller set up less cam. Cam was destroyed when last engine threw a rod.

The roller components are all from Bullet Cams.. NOT A BILLET CAM. I have the good push rods the 7/16 rockers and stud girdle etc and so on.

I don't need as much power as I had before and don't want to spin the motor to 7,000 which is wath I did last season.

I was thinking of a comp cams 280 hydo flat tappet. to make power below 6,000.

I need to finish races. One pole and too many DNFs last year. Spent the last season fixing torque arms, rear end brackets, cross members, and brakes. I want to see the checkerd flag.

 

your compression is gonna be very low with AFR 195 heads. that motor is rated at 9.6 to 1 with L98 58cc heads... let alone AFR 64-65 cc heads. its gonna be somewhat a dog in the low rpms with a big cam. i'd have the heads milled down for sure, to 58-60 cc. should get compression up near 9.7-9.9 to 1.

 

Geez, I don't know what to tell you, you're consciously looking to downgrade...? Did you have any valve-train/cam related failures before? I don't know, more power = more fun to me.

A comp 280H is an alright cam, the straight pattern would be ok with those aftermarket heads.

Road race? Deep rear gears? You should be able to keep the car in its powerband pretty easily, most "road race" type of cams are a tighter LSA, ie short powerband, then you just shift to stay in it.
Comp has some nice oval track ones, and "XOS" max area, "maximum area under the curve" or something they're called. They spec a 106-108 LSA though, but have pretty wild ramp rates.

Were you really hoping to stay with a hydraulic for ease of maintenance? The comp280h is kinda a "shotgun" cam, good at all kinds of applications, but not 'great' at anything specific.

 

Thanks SONIX,

We have a power to weight ratio per our rules. Car come off track hits scales goes to chasis dyno.

No more than 9.5 rear wheel hp per pound. With my car's weight I don't need alot of power. Too much and I am DQed.

Last year I ran in the unlimited class. Don't want to do that again. I don't want to make too much power. I feel that if I can make 330 to 350 rwhp I can add ballast where needed. I believe 330 to 350 should be acheivable.

 

hell you dont need AFR heads for that. stock zz4 should dyno near 300whp in a manual trans. CC503 Cam swap would do 330-350whp in that motor.

since you dont want a roller cam, and i dont know why you wouldnt tho, something like the xe274 would work. Or lunatic voodoo stuff. With AFR's you wont need a whole lot of cam

AS far as solid rollers go, the smallest i know of is like 236/242. Not a bad cam and shoud make power to 6500rpms or so, but i think it would put you over the 350whp mark

 

oohhhhh! Ok, now i'm on the same page as ya SDIF. If peak HP is limited, then you definately do want to maximize your usable powerband.

If you want flat tappet hydraulic, I'd look at something with semi-lazy ramp rates. Easy on valve-train, longer lasting parts, etc. Go with a wide LSA, like a fuel injection type of cam, those typically make the "table-top" power curve. 23x ish duration @.050, slight split pattern, maybe 4-6 degree split. The longer split helps the higher RPM, and is better with lower quality heads.

Look at these ones here;
-comp 268XFI H13 (fast ramp rates, but with 1.6, if you're using 1.5 it's easier on the parts)
-crane H-288-2
If there was a comp magnum 280 on a 114 LSA that would probably work just great.

 

comp will grind it on w/e lsa you want and i dont think they charge extra

 

Just for some info check out this web site.
www.zz4build.com
They used the Thumper cam in the ZZ4.

 

comp cams OWNS that site and OWNS RHS heads your not LIKELY to get unbiased reporting from guys whos only intent is to promote thier products
COMP CAMS
PATRIOT HEADS

notice what decent heads and a cam designed to make hp not a (THUMPY IDLE) do for a ZZ4

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/...010/A10-P1.htm

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine/index.html

 

Thanks for all the great replies!

Grumpy, I haven't heard from you since I was on Hybrid Z!

Sonix, You got the punch line. I want a broad flat torque curve. And do not want to make more than 350 rwp. I can add ballist if needed and can put it where I want to balance the car.

To all I already have the AFR heads, so that is why I am using them.

I did build an engine similar to the Gladiator Article. That is what my last engine was flat top JE, 6 inch rods chevy steel crank, solid roller, vic jr, etc. The engine was great but a rod bolt snapped and ruined everything but the heads, intake, carb and valve train. Cam was not to radical as I wanted smooth liniar power. It would plant the tires without spinning and had good smooth predictable power and was very drivable.

I don't need as much power as I had before. I want to run in a lesser class which has more competition.

 

yeah sonix has it right with the wider LSA theory... most of the dynos i've seen with wide lsa's made more flat peak HP curve, carrying good hp beyond peak. thats exactly what you want.

for 350whp and AFR's, it wont be hard. those XFI Flat tappets would be cool, since they are on a 113lsa.

 

I like the comp 294s it will put you at the #s you want use a 1.6 rocker.