HI, I am tearing my engine down, and cant seem to get to the torx head bolt that is behind the air pump, to get the bracket off, my chiltons book is a joke to. I need help asap. thanks.

 

Take the 3 bolts out of the AIR pump pulley and take it off.

 

Thanks, Ya I got it off. At first it looked like those 3 bolts held the center piece on or something, .

I didnt get to the Alternater bracket, how many bolts are on that?

 

Bump, I cant seem to get the Alternator bracket off, where are all the bolts at. what do I need to do, my Chilton sucks.

 

Just under the ALT, its deep inside the aluminum bracket and its a torx head bolt. You might need a flashlight to see it.

 

I'm pretty sure I got that one, Is there one down underneath or something, I am gonna put the car up on jackstand so I can try and look from the bottom. I am stumped.

 

There are 5 total, 1 is just above the PSP cap, 2 are next to the WP (1 is a stud with a nut) and 2 more are at the bottom next to the harmonic balancer and 1 is a stud with a nut again.

 

It also varies from year to year how many brace (round bar) the put on them. 1 on the Atl and maybe 1 on the back side of the PSP.

 

Ahh, Ok thank you Dokken10, I am gonna go out there and tackle it, see If i cant get everything off today, Gotta get the heads off soon. LOL

 

No problem. If your just removing the heads, leave the PSP lines connected and tie the bracket assembly off to the side. If you are removing the whole engine and/or tranny, remove the PSP lines a get the whole ATL assembly out of there.

 

Thanks, I got them off. Hopefully I am just removing the heads, but I might be removing the whole block (I hope not). Ya I left all the lines connected and just moved them to the side, I got almost all the exhaust mani bolts out (someones been in here before, so they aren't all that tight).

Any more advice for pulling the heads would be great, once again it's a 91 T/A L98. Thanks.

 

When removing the exhaust manifold(if stock) you will probably waste the heat shield. Soak bolts, studs and nuts in PB blaster or some other type of rust buster over night and spray them a couple of times. The other issue will be getting to the engine wiring harness (grounds) mount studs on the backside of both the heads. Soak both of those also. The wire connectors, studs and nuts rust together and will twist and break your ground connectors. You could cut the wires on the DS head and just splice them together. The PS you will have to remove the nut from the stud because the CC tube is connected to it or you could cut the tube under the car and have it welded after your done. I hate those studs because there is very little clearance between the heads and the firewall. Make sure you you plug ALL the holes in the valley, the last thing you want is for something to fall down into the shortblock.

 

Have you taken off the TPI yet? I like to keep the pushrods in the order they were removed including which end was against the rocker and the lifter. I also slightly loosen all the heads bolts and go back and loosen them more similar to installing the head bolts. I also get #1 cylinder to TDC before removing anything and mark the dist. and rotor very well. Mark the dist. and rotor when its fully installed and mark it again when the dist. gear disengages when pulling it out. This makes it real easy to get it right the 1st time when installing the dist. Do not move the crank at all when you start removing everything.

 

Thanks for the advice, I have the intake plenum off now, that's about it.
I have been soaking the bolts for like 2 weeks, I have been planning this for a while, Kinda hard to get out to the garage with a family, and being cold as hell.

I am going to try and get out there today and get the heads off. I am gonna keep everything in order, i.e. pushrods and rockers, I am probly replacing all that anyways but still. Ya someone had already cut the A.I.R. pipe and is just sitting there, they cut the end by the cat, and it's not even welded shut or anything. The a.i.r. pump was still there and hooked up. Not sure what side effects this would 'cause. I am removing the a.i.r. and getting non a.i.r. headers. I think I am probably going to make some bigger ground straps.

Thanks for all the advice, I am sure I will be asking more question though. LOL

 

I used to live in Bismarck,ND and Fargo so, I know what you mean about the cold. My blood has thinned now and if I went back up there I would turn into a Popsicle.
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I was in Bismarck from 81-87 and moved to Fargo(88-89)for Tech. school to get my A/P license (Aircraft mechanic) and have never returned.

 

Ooh, ya it's even colder up there, but it get's pretty cold here to. I would love to move further south.

 

Why are you removing the heads? Blown head gasket or just want to rebuild the heads?

 

Ya, it atleast has a blown head gasket, probably cracked heads. I will be putting on a set of Patriot heads anyways, But right now it pushes alot of water and boils over.

 

You could have washed your bearings if your head gasket was blown for awhile and you didn't catch it right away. All that work removing the heads putting new ones on and have a bad bottom end. Fresh heads on a high mileage short block you could blow your rings, it happened to me when I was younger and was on a tight budget. I would say while you are there rebuild the shortblock.
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Most likely your RMS and oil pan seals are bad or leaking also.