I have read at least 8 no spark threads and did everything you guys said to do.

1. change spark plugs
2. check and test idnition module
3. replace ignition coil
4. replace roto button and cap
5. replace wiring harness that connects to ignition module
6. i have good pick up


Still no spark, anyhelp would be appreciated

 

But on one part:I think there's a clue in there.

Modules go bad and cause a no-spark situation more often than any other part. I hate to recommend just blindly changing parts, but that might be the thing to do. At the very least, get another known good one, like borrow one out of a friend's car or something (since they're so quick and easy to change), and "test" it by substitution.

 

don't forget the PICKUP coil. I had the EXACT same problem....I was going completely insane. I replaced completely everything...and ran test after test. I got nothing. Then I found out that it was the pickup coil. I went ahead and replaced the whole distributor (pickup coil was included) and it cost about $100 bucks.

 

yeah a few guys was telling me that should i get a used one? or basically just get the entire distributor

 

I had a problem with my pickup coil and I couldn't get the distrubutor apart, so I got a new procomp dist. on ebay for around $100. I have not had a problem since, almost 3 years.

 

If its a DIS system take off the coils and turn the key on engine off and check for battery voltage at the positive terminals of the icm if its there ur icm is good if it aint check to make ur icm is getting power from the pcm 5v and if its getting 12v from the battery if it aint getting 12v its ur park neutral saftey switch or clutch switch if its manual if the 5v aint there tere is probably an open or short from the pcm to the icm also check ur CKP if its a VRS it will have two wires going to ur icm back probe those wires and hook ur DMM leads to ur probes then crank the engine u sould see at least 1 volt

 

all that has been checked now i have to go with the electronic spark control

 

replaced the esc module still no spark

 

Bad ESC module won't cause a no-spark condition. The ESC module 'listens' to the knock sensor and sends a signal to the ECM when knock is detected. The ECM then decides to retard timing. If it fails the engine will still run but the timing will be retarded or in a possibly extreme case, never retarded.

Like Sofa said above, the ignition module under the distributor cap is the most likely candidate for failure causing no-spark. You've tested power TO THE COIL, right? Ignition in run, 12 volts at coil?

A new ignition module is around $30 at AZ or one of the others. A rebuilt distributor will come with a new coil and runs around $100.

If you've got the small cap and you open it up and see a lot of rust around the pickup it may be worthwhile to replace the whole thing. Just make sure you've tested EVERYTHING UP TO the dist. If you've got the earlier cap in coil, it's already over 20 years old.

 

take the dist cap off and spin the engine over.see if the rotor is turning to begin with.it should turn clockwise.if it aint turning i dont care what you replace.you may have a pin sheared in the distributor.

 

Forgot that important, and easy, check. Hate to be chasing electrical gremlins only to find out a timing chain was bad.

 

I'm having the same problem with my '89 GTA and I've done all of the above as well yet still no spark! I installed a new set of moroso ultra 40 universal spark plug wires yesterday and now when I flip the key to 'on', the f/p doesn't prime and the 'check engine' light won't come on but was working fine with the msd's I had. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Check your fuses. Most likely cause is something shorted to ground temporarily during the work. There should be no other relation between plug wires and your issues.

 

Already checked the fuses; both f/p fuses as well and they're good. Don't know if this might have something to do with it but before I installed the wires, I had to remove and repair the ground wire from the alternator because it appeared to have been tapped into leaving a small section exposed. Once that was repaired, I hooked it up to the alternator while the other end is hooked up the the negative battery terminal. I was too excited that day about my wires and looms going on that I didn't pay as good attention as to where the other end of the alty wire belongs. If I remember correctly, the negative battery teminal on my car had just 1 other black wire running to it and its bolted about 6 inches away from the main f/p fuse by the battery behind the headlight. Thanks for clearing that up naf, I wasn't too sure if it was my wires or not. I'll check for any possible loose connections or faulty wiring tommorow.

Later,
Phoenix