I am in the process of changing-out rocker studs because the intake stud on cyl #2 broke at the rocker arm nut threads. I noticed that I can depress the pushrod slightly (depress the lifter plunger) on the #2 intake, but all of the other pushrods cannot be depressed. Seems kind of odd to me; is this a problem?? Thanx!! -Bill

 

i have the same problem on 3 of my LS7 lifters... they are spongy at the top. Some say is just cuz they arent pumped up right, but a hydraulic lifter has a spring in them thats suppose to keep the plunger at the top and be fairly stiff reguardless.

So i'm thinking its got a weak spring inside and may work when pumped up but it will be noisey at first. who knows if it will collapse or not. I'd just replace it tho since you can get new ls7 lifters for 100 bucks or comp replacement ones for under 200

 

you can go to www.jegs.com punch in # 270-10530-2 they sell these roller lifters in a 2 pack for $42.99 later jimmy

 

I would like to not have to remove the intake until I do the HSR swap. The engine had been running well, prior to developing the miss that I traced to the broken stud. Thanks for the reply.Anyone else want to toss in their 2 cents? -Bill

 

Did you check for proper geometry when you assembled?

 

Yes, and verified before disassembly. -Bill

 

good man. makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside now, right? At least you dont have to do any more chasing. Its always a possibility you just had a bad stud. It shouldnt just collapse, but its not out of the ordinary for one to be easier or harder than another to depress. depends on the oil in it, and its position on the lobe.

 

NO, I'll get a warm fuzzy when it's purring again. It just seems odd that it is the ONLY one that doesn't feel 'solid', and it was the BAD lifter/pushrod/rocker/stud location to begin with. Would that be a 'pumped-up' lifter that would act like that, or would a pumped-up lifter pull the end off of a rocker stud? It seems like the pushrod would fail first, if the rocker stud was 'healthy'. The poly-lock had .600" of thread engagement, so that looked right. Thanks for all of the replies people! Now, would anyone want to go over the valve adjustment procedure, or give me their favorite method? Thanks again....anyone want a beer? -Bill