Someone please tell me , is my Camaro taking alot of oil ?...
It dosent get blueish smoke when I start it up and it dosent come out any blue smoke when I give WOT.. and I dont think there is a engineoil loss..

please check my pictures out on : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/rep/sparkplugs/

They seem oily / blackish ... maybe to much fuel.. those sparklpugs have been used for ~490Miles (800km)

Ive changed to a new MSD distributor and new MSD 8.5 superconductor wires and new AC Delco RJ45TS sparkplugs (made in usa).. the old AC delco was made in france... strange...

Ive made an compression test last year in october and it turned out real good..

please help me out, shall I worry for my sparkplugs ?! maybe its better now with a new ignition.. also changed the blaster coil to MSD..

 

i had a plug or 2 look like that when my left side valve cover decided to start leaking. they've been bone dry ever since i replaced the gasket.

 

I have been told it is due to the valve stem seals. I also have the blue smoke on start-up, a pretty big cloud actually. Now if this is the correct problem I do not know. Here is the article outlining how to change the seals. http://vettenet.org/vlvseals.html

 

it looks to me like your valve covers are leaking down onto the plugs. Those plugs look fine. Is the oil level going down and you have to add oil? If it was your valve seals it would smoke at startup and eventually stop smoking. Do the easy/cheap thing and change the valve cover gaskets before you do anything else.

 

I cant tell if it takes any oil, havent checked the level (because ts been winter and the car have been sitting in the garaget).
only done some projects and so.

Ive changed the valvecover gasket already did it last year, and ther is no "fresh" oil leaking now, So that Ive already changed..

Dosent it look black ? seems like it too rich or isnt it ?
(I have 24lbs injectors and ive changed the injector constant in the PROM so it wouldnt matter because the inj. constant is set to the new size.)
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I havent added any oil since my change (I change everyyear)
I will change the oil next week again, and I will keep track of it. IF it loose any oil. But I cant say I have any bluesmoke when I fire it up, wouldnt it give the blue smoke when I give hard throttle to ? there is no blue smoke then..

If it takes oil, it would take alot of oil right ?!..
Ive made an compressiontest and it turned out strong..

thanks for all the answers.

 

The electrodes look fine to me, but it's hard to tell after only 500 miles. Mine were solid black when I took them out, from the car running too rich. If you're burning oil, they will turn black too, so I wouldn't worry.

Look at this chart, these are what bad spark plugs look like:

 

you know what burns me at 6am

people who post problems and have it all figured before you get replies

see the end of the plug without any deposits on it- that means you have pretty good combustion

that oil on the threads means an external leak

if you dont want good advice from this site and you know whats wrong already- dont ask

 

The oil on the treads could also be caused by a loose spark plug. Oil will travel up the treads from the vibration of the motor. How would you say that all that excess oil got into your combustion chamber??????? Well it's through your valve seals. If you have a puff of smoke on start up after the car has sat for a short while it is your valve seals. Some of your seals are leaking worse than others, and you can see this in your plugs. Notice that in your pics it appears that plug 1,2,3,4 have a little to no oil on them, now plugs 5,6,7,& 8 have a lot of oil on them. You can see this oil at the base of the electrode, and on the insulator. Look at Ward's post, on the 4th pic down of the left side you see a plug labeled OIL DEPOSITS. Now this pic is far exaggerated then what you have but it has the same basic idea. So go ahead and change out those valve seals.

 

^ Agree.

Even if the plug is tight, the 1500+ PSI of combustion pressure will push the
oil out between the threads. If the valve seals don't help, the oil may be
leaking past the rings.

Aside from that, from the angles and poor lighting, it seems the AFR is a touch
rich.

I'm also seeing some extra heat, and/or improper timing and/or improper gap.

#5 seems too tight compared to the electrode width; I'm guessing #5 is less
than 0.040"?

Check the timing, and gap. You may need to step down to a colder plug.

 

Guys, oiled threads means there is oil coming in with the intake charge- usually valve guide seals. Seen that so many times I couldn't even count them. External leak will never get on the threads- can't get past the plug seat to get in there. Oil coming in with the intake charge will get pushed up into the threads by the pressure of compression/combustion, as was mentioned above.

Want to try something to prove it? OK. Notice how the center electrodes have a dark part to it on one side? Make a mark with a Sharpie on the OUTSIDE/porcelain of the plug that corresponds to the position of the black mark on the center electrode. Now screw the plug back into THE SAME PLUG HOLE IT CAME OUT OF ORIGINALLY and tighten as normal. The mark on the plug will point directly at the intake valve of that cylinder. Hence, that's where the oil is entering the combustion chamber.

I'll give you a 99% probability on this one.

 

All the sparkplugs (new and old ones) is gapped to 0353inch (0,9mm) (as described in manual and engine compartment..) So it would be gapped right or ?!

My base timing is 6 degrees (checked and set it resently becuase ive changed out my old dist, and before I had 6 degrees too.. and with computer connected it goes up and down depening on load and throttle/rpm...

RJ45TS is the stock plug for my engine its the recommened one, havent done anything big with the engine, shall I change anyway ?!.

thanks for the post.

 

So you think I have a "decent" combustion then ? Maybe ill change some stuff in the prom to make it al little leaner (seems like its little too rich, some blackish or Im i way off?!)

How sure are you on externalleak ?

Thanks for the help.

 

You need to open those up a touch with that MSD ignition coil. Try 0.045"
for starters. Once you mod the ignition, the factory manual and hood sticker
is no use.

I'd also go down one range colder. Plug seems too hot according to the photos. It could be ignition timing, lean AFR, and/or improper gap. It's better
to be one step colder than too hot.

Try those suggestions,then check the plugs again.

 

The pics is with my old busted distributor and ald cables and my bad fuelpressureregulator (and thats maybe it isnt "realgood")

I just installed my MSD distributor, MSD blastercoil and MSD 8.5mm wires. So Ive only started the car.. havent runned it for long So I'll try gapping it to 0.045" then.

Maybe I give it some time and see if it burns any better.

I dont think my car is smoking blueish when I start it, and it dosent smoke blue when I give hard throttle. Maybe ill do some more runs and see how it turns out.

THANKS all for the answers and help. Will check this out and get back here with some new info (and feel free to post som more ideás / tips)