Hello,
I'm having issues with the AC on my 92 camaro. It's the 5.0 tbi engine.
I replaced the compressor and accumlator and I think the orifice tube last year (I know the compressor for sure. I bought that, but Tireman had to replace a few other things to legally empty and recharge the compressor).

The AC seemed to work fine, but the car sat for half a year. I got the car down to where I live now (FL) and the AC doesn't work. THe blower is fine, but I figured I had a leak in the hose assembly.

I bought an AC leak detection system, and got a decent UV light. I first added some r134a (or attempted to) to the compressor because I figured it was empty and it needs some for the uv dye to be pushed out. I shot a little into the low side, and patiently ran the compressor for a few minutes. I noticed however, that the ac system clutch would kick in for a few seconds, and then kick out. I also determined that I didn't have a leak (or a visible one anyway). Could the car have been charged too much from the beginning, because adding the extra r134a didn't stop it from working. Would this cause the clutch to kick in and out for a few seconds from stopping?
Thanks

its kicking in and out because theres not enough freon in it ,try putting in another can with stopleak in it,later jimmy

okay, sounds like a good plan to me. I think I'll pick up a guage for the system when I get a chance though. I really am having trouble diagnosing. I had hooked the ac can up, had the car running, and had punctured the top and it still wasn't really taking the r134a out (can wasn't really getting lighter, and even after a few minutes it had a ton left when I disconnected it, which led me to believe it was overfilled). It's probably a great place to start though. I'll stop at napa later and pick both up.

on the aluminum canister theres a plug in unplug this and take a paperclip make a u out of it put it in the plug, this will make the clutch stay engaged, this will help in getting it to take the freon,later jimmy

ah so it won't take it unless the clutch is engaged? Also, could you explain this a little further? I don't quite understand. To add AC I have a blue cable that clips on to the low pressure and then you screw a r134a can on and then puncture it with a twisting ****.

Still no luck.... I checked the pressure, and I actually ended up overfilling, because on the instructions it said "when clutch isn't engaging, add one can". So I did. I then let it out until it met the recommended amount, and still it kicked in and out. I did notice that if I turned it off for a few minutes, then put it back on it'd run straight for a while (like maybe 10 seconds). Also, what would happen with the gauge is it would slowly rise, it would hit "alert" level, then the clutch would kick in and it would shoot to like 30psi (which is still the recommended level). So what now? What electrical problems could be causing this?

also. I've checked all the fuses, they all seemed fine, but I tried replacing the AC one anyway (just to rule it out). No luck... However, There's something that could be related, but I didn't give it much thought before. My climate control ***** might be messed up. Whenever you'd turn the top one it would hiss ever so slightly. My car's always done this, and the AC worked before, but maybe the controls are completly shot? from what I understand, the top lever is connected to a rotating rubber circle that attaches to the Vac? and maybe the hissing is jsut the rubber circle part is worn out? Would replacing this help? I did have it pulled apart and determined that top lever to be the one causing it.

Just a quick post to get this back on the front page. I really think it's the climate controls, but I'm not sure. I dont want to have to spend money unless I have Th to. Can anyone help me out please?! Also, my cardomain is http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2629567/2 in case anyone was wondering.

start the car up, turn your a/c to max, turn the blower on max, check the high and low pressure lines, one of them should be hot and the other should be cold. it may help if you put a fan in front of your car blowing onto your condensor.

Isn't it dangerous to put a gauge on the high line side? Also, what PSI should it be at? And yeah I have the AC at max and blower to max when I tried before, and the car itself doesn't run too hot (It takes 30min with ambient temp of 70 at idle to get the car up to 180). I'm really disappointed by this process, but hopefully the climate controls will solve it.

If you have a gauge set ( high and low side gauges) connecting to high-side is no problem. This is the best way to see what's going on with the sys.
If you just have the single gauge, don't connect it to the high side.
Low side press should be around 45 psi.
High side can be between 200 and 300, maybe a little higher.
To get the freon in the low side, jumper the connector prev mentioned, and hold the eng rpms at 1500-2000 rpms while slowly opening the freon can valve. After adding 1 can. Take out the jumper and re-connect it to the press sensor on the dryer. See if the compressor stays engaged.

thanks for the response. That's what I thought about the high side port.
I already checked the pressure, and the pressure isn't a problem as far as I can tell (unless it gives completly diffeerent readings with the clutch engaged). Could you possibly show me what part you're talking about on a pic? I still dont understand what you mean by use a jumper on it. Thanks.

On the pass side side, near the firewall, there's a large shiny metal cylinder (that's the receiver/dryer/accumlator). There should be a press switch screwed on the side of it, near the top of the cyl. On the press switch is a elec connector. Unplug connector and using a paperclip, connect the two wires together inside the connector and lay it off to the side in a place where the paperclip wont touch any metal. This will trick the systems into thinking the freon press is above min and allow the compressor to keep running while you are trying to fill system.

ah okay, that makes sense. I know exactly what switch you're talking about on the accumulator. I always thought of it as more of a plug, and I thought for some crazy reason you meant the low side. I'll need more freon :P.

Hello there I am having the same issue as you. I tried to leak test it with the UV dye and was unable to find a leak.

I think it might be my compressor hose because, I have seen several posts on this board that say that the r134 molecules are a lot smaller that the r-12 molecules and they may seep through the actual hose itself.

Have you replaced your hoses? Let me know if you have not I think I know where you can get new hoses for around 60.00.

I haven't replaced my hoses. I did see them for about that price at autozone, but I didn't get them. They were also apparently on sale at pepboys today, but I think I found my problem. The nut on the back of the accumulator (not sure where that leads to, just know it's location) was leaking. I tightened it as best I could, but I didn't want to break it. I'm pretty sure the leak has stopped, but I will check my levels in a week. Is there normally a gasket there that could have been left out when it was installed by the magnificient EPA certified Tireman?