I have a single fan 1985 trans am 305 TPI.

I installed headers and i broke the radiator fan switch, on an attempt to remove the old one to replace it, i ended up breaking off half the copper outside. So, what do i do now? Is there any way i can remove this from the block?

The most i can do is tilt the engine, i cant remove the engine. Thanks.

Edit: Ill get a pic when i can, its hard to explain. Basically none of my wrenches or sockets would do anything but strip, so i tryed te vice grips. Any help appreciated
--Sorry for the double post, but i dont think the other section gets a lot of views--

 

Some will disagree - but my suggestion is the easy way - if it isn't leaking leave it in there, and wire up a separate fan controller. I tried replacing my fan switch, and went through 4 of them, including a high-dollar Thermaster switch - they all stopped working after about 30-60 days, so I got fed up, and wired in a separate fan controller that probes the radiator - it was about $90, and has wiring to have an always on and always off switch in the cockpit, as well as totally adjustable settings, and I love it.

 

i dont think it is leaking, i wont know untill tommorow when i can put my headers back on..
what do you mean by probes the radiator?

couldnt i just wire in a switch to the green wire and that would turn on the fan when needed?

As long as i keep a close eye on it, and dont run it when i dont need to?

 

well i dunno about that, it would work BUT if i were you i would run a fuse, relay and switch on it to be safe, im doing it on mine and im gonna use my ignition as the power tap for the relay that $90 kit i've heard is pretty good and simple to do but i spent $15 on mine lol

 

The radiator fan switch goes into the head, not the block. Which is wrong, the part or the location?

 

location, this goes into the head, not the block

Sorry about that, i use to consider the whole thing a block, but now i am learning the correct terminology.

 

Okay, you're off "the list" now. . .

You should be able to back or break it out. Whichever you do, it'll be easier to get to with the header out of the way. Or, remove the head and have a machine shop do it for you (they'll probably charge you $30 for 5 minutes of work).

The switch just grounds the circuit to energize the fan relay. It already has fuse capability built into it. To hook a switch to the factory wire, you'd just have to hook it up so turning on the switch grounds the green wire.

 

I wired up a switch for now, although i mounted it in the dash, i must say, i like how it looks.

Works great it seems. i had the header off at the time i tryed all this. Now just need some 90* plug boots and a Ypipe.

Car is finally coming togehter again.

 

You can take the plug out of the other head and put it in there.

 

what plug?

 

There should be a plug in the other head in the same place. Remember that it's turned around on the other side, so it will be between the last two cylinders.

Of course that may not want to come out either, but at least it's not brass.

 

He should have a coolant temp sensor for the guage in that spot....?

 

Duh, right, sorry.

 

Are there any threaded coolant ports on a TPI manifold? I know most aftermarket carbureted manifolds have a spot for a fitting on either side of the thermostat housing, one usually used for a heater hose fitting, and the other is typically either used for the temp guage or is capped - one of those spots could be used for the fan switch as well. Probably a better spot anyway, since thats where the coolant would be the hottest anyway, as thats where it exits the engine.