I had to swap out my lower intake manifold due to a stripped thread on the water neck and now when I try to fire it up, it will only stay on if I give it some gas. I tried to adjust my timing, but when I move the distributor, my timing does not fluctuate. I tried jumping pins A and B on the ALDL, I tried removing the tan/black stripe wire...nothing. I rewired my spark plug cables 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 as stated on the manifold...and nothing. The car starts, it shakes and gets all "chuggy" then shuts off in 3-5 seconds.
Also if i rev it around 3000+ my SES light comes on and if i restart it, the light is off till I rev it again. This car has me stumped

thanks guys

 

Bump

 

did you check for vacuum leaks?

 

....so what code is it throwing?

 

How do I check the codes? I tried getting a reader but no one sells obd1. I tried the AB jumper and it flashes like crazy, how do I read that?

Gurk- there are no vaccum leaks, I even swapped out the vac hoses that go to the plenum

 

UPDATE

I got it running, it runs crappy, I still cant adjust the timing. It runs better when I have the AB jumper in, if I pull it out it will start to shake. Also I noticed even though I have my distributor bolt tightened, the cap sill moves. Is that normal? I had her running and she overheated (around 240*)while idling. Now it wont turn on, its spins over but wont run.

 

your not supposed to run the engine with the jumper in...

The cap should not move, try redoing the distributor clamp (loosen and make sure it is on right) after setting the timing. Sounds like you have way too much timing?

On my '89 bird to adjust the timing there is a connector on the pass. side (underhood) right on the heater motor.

You may also want to try to have someone turn the engine over while you move the distributor slowly to get your timing close.

EDIT:
To read the codes- it will blink in a series of 3. It will start with a # blinking 3 times (count flashes separated by pause) then the engine codes (3 times per code) then it will blink the same # as the beginning (3 times).
So code 42 will be... 4 flashes *slight pause* 2 flashes (3 times), then it will go onto next code or end.

 

ok tell me exactly how you dropped the dissy

 

when i pulled it, the rotor was pointing to the passenger fender, i put it back pointing straight ahead, spun it towards the passenger fender and it dropped right in. I know for sure that its not 180* off. I reinstalled it with the #1 piston at TDC with the rotor pointing to the #1 piston. When I pulled it out again...my distributor is not good, the cap will spin but the shaft stays put. Im going to pull one at a junkyard tomorrow. A OEM new one is $120

 

As of now...it wont start again, the code is gone. My spark at the coil is really strong but at my cylinders it seems limp. As stated earlier, im going to pull a distrib from the JY and get some new wires for it... which will do me better? 7mm or 8mm? my plugs have around 200 miles, I have a new cap and rotor, about 20 miles on those.



a little off topic... on my throtle body, there is this sensor which after looking it up is the Idle Air Control...well my 4 pin plug isnt good, it does not have the clip that locks it in place...therefore i dont know if its installed the right way. could that be causing my rough idle? i removed that plug, removed the air flow sensor and the TPS, and my car was idleing a bit better, but if i gave it gas it would bog

 

you should be able to tell how the Iac is supposed to go in buy the broken tab on the plug and the little bump on the sensor

 

well i got a distrib right now from the JY and the IAC plug...time to give it another shot

 

Alright...everything is installed, its firing a spark every time its at TDC.... but its not starting. A little trouble shooting...and im not getting gas. Is there some kind of reset switch for the fuel pump? I checked the fuse and its good. Where is the fuel pump relay located? I really need to invest in a chiltons or haynes manual....

 

If the car ran fine before you swapped out the intake manifold, you problem is going to be something you removed and put back incorrectly. The chance of a relay going is pretty slim. Get your timing situation worked out first. Is the pump priming, do you have fuel pressure?

 

Ok, now it fires up. Turned out to be a fuse right next to the battery. It will turn on fine and will shut off if i let off the gas. The code it was throwing before was 35, the IAC since the plug was wrong. i got a new one soldered in and that fixed it. Now it gave me code 25- air temp sensor; sensor out of range, high
Is that whats messing with my idle?

 

So after messing with it more, i got it to run now... my MAS is giving me problems. when its plugged in the car turns off, if i unplug it, the car runs but really rich. black smoke from the exhaust and a strong carbon monoxide odor.

as for the timing, where should it be?

after the car has been running for awhile, after its shut off, there is a pressure releasing sound, which is coming from the gas tank area..i opened the gas cap and it has alot of vapor... im assuming its part of the running rich problem it has...

 

did you forget to plug the sensor that is under the upper pleneum

code 25

also check you tank preasure valve

 

The air temp sensor under the plenum is connected. Where is the tank pressure valve located?

 

dr side near the diff

 

Well I got it running. When i first fire it up in the morning its really shakey and turns off sometimes. When its warmed up it runs fine. But my speedometer hasnt been working (the gear in the tranny is too far back) and after driving for a while the SES light comes on code 24 comes up which is the vss...could this be why it shuts off? Also when turned on in the morning or after sitting a while smoke comes out of the exhaust..smells really bad. Its not oil or water for sure..so im thinking my injectors are bad.