i read the haynes manual to change out the motor mounts and it said to remove the 3 bolts holding it in place switch the mounts and reassemble (in a nutshell) i get down there and it is not that easy. so i did a search and after 15pgs of results i got no where. what is the easiest way to change out the motor mounts. the engine/tranny is not in the car. i got one bolt off on the drivers side mount but the other 2 seem impossible to get to without dropping part of the suspension. if the suspension needs dropped how do i go about doing it safely?

 

It can be done.
Get a cheap loong 15mm box end wrench to reach up into the frame thru the holes to hold the nuts. You will probably have to bend the end of the wrench slightly to get on the nut thru the access holes. Use an impact wrench on topside or a helper you can trust.
The nuts in the frame have washers. Silicone these onto the nuts Nascar style while you're drilling the rivets in the clamshells and figuring out which way the new mount go into the clamshell. Only one way is right.
When the glue has hardened on the washers, you can put the nut in the boxend wrench and it will stay there as you put it up in the frame. Start the bolt into the nut by hand.
It's just time consuming and frustrating, but not that hard. Good luck. It should look like this when you finish:

 

thats not what i was hoping to hear, but thanks. guess i will just have to grin and bear it. when you say bend the wrench, do you mean to literally bend the wrench or are you justtalkin about angling it? i dont recall there being a washer on the bolt. guess i will have to double check.

 

There is what seems like a copper washer on there. Larger for the single bottom bolt. I would suggest a small hand. It is possible for them to fit fingers up in past the control arm to get all three nuts on the drivers side. If not, I was able to do it with just a 6" extension, and a universal joint. Wrap the universal with one layer of electrical tape to keep it from flopping around and dropping the nut/washer into the K-member. That takes a while to dig out of there. With the tape on the universal, you can set it at the correct angle to get the nut started. I did it that way on the passengers side, but it would work on both. You can get it in just past the spring where it rests in the K-member. I wish I had taken pics, but I didn't.
I had both mounts done in about an hour. Would have taken less but I was waiting for some help. With a second person, I would think you should be able to get them done in about 30 minutes if you are very patient and have pretty good hand-eye coordination.

Once again... don't drop anything down in the K-member. The holes in the center on top and bottom aren't big enough for the washer and nut to fall through either.

Using Silicon to hold the washer on is not a bad idea at all. I used grease, so the washer fell off quite a few times as well.

 

Get a cheap one and put it in a vice and hit it with a hammer to increase the angle on the 15mm end so it looks more like this: _________/ Cheap wrenches will bend.
The tape idea sounds just as good with a "universal socket" to do the same thing as the bent wrench. You can buy just one universal socket at AZ.

 

Well, if you buy a new universal they are usually pretty tight. It's just after a few years of use when they get real loose. heh

 

thanks i really appreciate the input. i will have to try the electrical tape and if that doesn't work then its off the the parts store to get a cheap wrench. all i have is Craftsman and I'm not gonna go bending them up.