355 with flat top pistons.....
AFR eliminator heads.......
And one big *** mechanical roller cam......(do i need to get my lifter bores machined to run a roller cam?) thoughts on what size cam to use?

im also planning on buying some industructable valvetrain stuff, full roller setup and the best money can buy.....ive been told you can make over 500 horse power N/A with those heads and the right cam.........feel free to chime in if you know what your talkin about

 

Don't know if I've seen it done on a 355, but I've seen a few 383's setup like that make in the neighborhood of 600-630hp. If you're talking this power, I would say not street friendly. 500hp isn't too bad. My setup a couple years ago was the trick flow kit summit sells for 500hp on this 383 10:1 compression that dynoed 405rwhp and ran 11.4's. Only special parts for solid roller is the lifters and springs made for a solid roller. Solid may end up cheaper anyway as the lifters are usually half the price of hydraulic roller.
For 500hp I'd say the AFR195's and a cam around 250 degrees intake duration @ .050.
For 600hp I'd say the AFR227's and a cam around 270+ degrees intake duration @ .050.

 

would the 500 hp one be streetable? is it better to go with a hydraulic roller?, finaly would the car hold that much with just sub frame conectors? i guess the factory 10 bolt is out of the question

 

With 405rwhp it didn't get very good gas milage, but it was streetable. The worst thing I've done for streetablility was switch over to a th400 with a 4500 stall, but I still drive it from time to time. I just don't like that it gets terrible milage and revs at least 2500rpm just to keep speed anywhere let alone pull a hill. I was also using my 10 bolt when I did that for more than an entire season. I took it out before I ever ran faster than 11.4's, and it looks fine. After going solid roller, I prefer it although it doesn't really make any more power than a hydraulic. Because of the valve lash you basically have to get .02" extra lift to match that of a hydraulic roller and a few more degrees of duration. The biggest thing is to get a stud girdle for a solid roller from the extra spring pressure and make it so you don't need to adjust them as often. I have checked mine, and they've held their adjustment all year.

 

i get the feeling that a huge cam like that would be a bit much in a 355

 

with the AFR 227cc heads that i have been looking at they "strongly recommend" the T&D shaftmount rockers that are custom made for the heads but run an additional ~$1000 (purchased through AFR). but their tech said that the 400 i am planning would have no problem spinning to 8,000 RPM's with proper cam/intake combo.

pn for the heads is #1068
pn for the kit on the rockers is #6053


if you are getting really serious about this, i would email AFR and a couple of cam companies (i chose Crane and Lunati) and keep shooting the emails and you will figure everything out from the technical aspect just to make dang sure everything will work well.

 

i know, cause thats alot of money to build a 350 horse power turd.....

 

For heads I'd say stick with something around 195-200cc like the AFR's, Dart Pro 1's, or Trick Flow's all of which need no special parts. You might be able to still make the power with a smaller cam using 1.6 rockers. Duration seems to change power fairly quickly, but all these heads should do best with a .600" valve lift so that's what I made a target. These should be more friendly as far as duration for street use and vacuum for brakes. A couple hyd. rollers I like for that: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku and http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
A couple solid rollers used with 1.6 rockers: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku or http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku