Can I get by w/out honing the cylinder walls? This is an LT1 block that had approx. 65k miles on it. The cylinder walls appear nice with no ridges or marks on them. One of the pics shows dots on the walls, but that is from the camera

 

What do you plan to do about piston rings?

 

I believe that the basic rule of thumb is that if you are going to use the same rings that were in there before you do not need to hone it. If you will be replacing the rings then you will need to hone it for them to seat correctly.

I would also check each cylinder for ovalness either yourself (if you have the tools to do so) or have a machine shop do it. If the cylinders need machine work anyway you would be wasting your time honing them.

 

I received the motor with the pistons removed. A few pistons have one or two rings missing. So, I'll need new rings.

 

I built my first motor without honing about 5 years ago. Still running today, not one problem.

 

i would at least make a pass or two with a ridge reamer . this would ensure no ring damage when you install pistons . good luck .

 

The pictures aren't very well focused, but I don't see a ridge there. If there is any kind of ridge at all, you need to remove it so the new rings with their sharp corner don't catch on the ridge and break the ring and/or piston.

You don't "hone" the cylinders, you need to "break the glaze". Provide a "micro file" to wear the rings to the cylinder at start up to help them seat. Those ball glaze breakers do wonders - a couple of passes up and down the oiled cylinder is all it takes.

 

That looks a lot like my LT1 after 110K+ on Mobil 1. It still has a little cross hatch, so I wouldn't advise any more than a light glaze break, thorough wash, and new rings.

How do the piston skirts look?

 

I assume you measured the bores for taper or are confident they are not tapered excessivly (no ridge)?

Do absolutely NOT use a ridge reamer.

Do also NOT use a glaze breaker hone, they suck!

What you want is a bottle brush, bubble gum hone or whatever you want to call it. You can get them from mcmaster.com if not locally.

They are easily used on a hand drill, they make a perfect pattern, unlike the glaze rbeaker hone. They work fast and even an idiot can't screw it up. Clean the bores thoroughly after and you can install some nice fresh rings that will seat properly.

When done, set the ring gap in the BOTTOM part of the bore, pushing it down with a flat top piston upside down. This will ensure you set the gap in the elast worn part of the bore, setting it tight on the top could cause it to jam in the bottom.

 

There is no ridge on the walls. The piston skirts look nice as well. I'll take pics when I get a chance. I may shop around for the ball type brush.

 

The ***** on a ball-type glaze breaker are made out of the same material as a fine grinding wheel. They're just spherical and on the ends of spring wire.

Like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GB418...3A1|240%3A1318

You can often rent or get them on loan from a parts store.

 

http://www.brushresearch.com/index.php This place has everything for anytype of honing. I'm thinking I would need a 240 grit @ most, maybe even a 120.