Hows it going? I want to swap in a 4-wire type heated o2 sensor in my '89 GTA in place of my 1-wire unit since its bad. Anyone know what brand, part no. I need that fits my car? I'd like to do a clean install if possible so where would I be able to purchase a 4-wire pigtail? Thanks in advance.

Later,
Phoenix

 

------> tpi parts to the right of this page has them,its a 3 wire $85.00 ,jimmy

 

Thanks 1fastam. I actually purchased a 4-wire o2 pigtail assembly from a 98-01 T/a off tpiparts.net . As for the o2 sensor its a Denso brand part no. NP2344025. While I'm waiting on these parts, the 4-wire sensors hook up just like the 3-wire type except theres 1-extra wire (ground) too hook up correct?

Thanks again,
Phoenix

 

I was told to buy a heated O2 when buying my 2055 hooker headers. Should I purchase one from TPI parts...just wondering since my car is an LO3.

 

Its recommended to swap to a heated unit when aftermaket headers are installed since the o2 sensor is placed farther away from the headers usually in the y-pipe increasing heat-up time. Using a 3-wire or better yet a 4-wire unit cuts time down from the usual 5-8 min. to 1-2 min. I'd say go for it.

Later,
Phoenix

 

Thanks.

 

Me again, sorry for ressurrecting this thread. I installed the 4-wire heated sensor on my GTA several months ago and would like to confirm if I did it right. I used a 98-02 Trans Am pigtail for 4-wire sensors, and a Denso 4-wire unit (which fits the LS1 ofcourse). I wired the purple signal wires together, tapped into the brown/white striped alternator wire for switch-on operation with the blue wire on the pigtail, and finally twisted both remaining white wires together and grounded them on the driver's side ground bolt located at the rear of the head....... not supposed to go there correct? It ran fine for about a month and a half and noticed it went into closed loop much faster. ....... I ended up with a no crank-problem (found out its a bendt rod) where my engine all of a sudden wouldn't turn over at all mind you its rebuilt. I'm just wondering if this might of be a possible cause?? Just to throw it in the mix, I'm also facing a continuous running FPOPS problem after the car is off but thats another story unless someone can relate the 2 some how lol. Thanks in advance guys.

Later,
Phoenix

 

Ok its been confirmed. I wired it wrong .This must of caused the rare 'open injector' condition on my car. A member of these boards suggested I tap off of the brown alternator wire. There was only a brown/white striped wire present on the alternator harness which I tapped from, this might of caused a short or something causing the injector to stay stuck open. As for the grounds, I read many times on these boards that its ok to wire both of them together on the driver's side head ground bolt. Wouldn't it make more sense to ground the each wire seperately (depending on which one) since one wire is for the dedicated heater ground?

Later,
Phoenix

 

Why do people bother with 4 wire sensors? Really

The break down of them is IGN to heater, heater GRD, Hi signal, Lo signal

Unless you guys have a special PCM with utilizes both Hi and Lo signals, 4 wire swaps will be problematic at best

Most people simply GRD the Lo signal and run it but as seen above and in MANY threads, this leads to problems

Buy the 3 wire sensor. If cost is an issue grab one plus the pigtail from a 90's Ford truck in a junkyard

 

Simple. Faster closed-loop mode due to the dedicated heater ground.

 

Huh? Dedicated heater ground?

You do realize that 3 and 4 wire sensors have the same heater wiring. The difference is in the signal output

3 wire is like factory 1 wire with the heater suck on it

 

"Suck on it????". That was a mistake right? lol j/k! I read on these boards that theres 2 types of heated o2 sensors, one bieng the extra grounded version, the other bieng the extra signal output for better signal reliability.

 

No they have 2 signals. It makes no difference if a sensor has one or 5 grounds. Ground is ground and the factory wouldnt waste the extra wire on something redundant like that

People assume the LO signal side is the extra ground because its similar to 'low reference' which is commonly mistake for a ground in connector pinouts

It should read 'stuck on it'

 

I see. Where would be the correct location for that 'Lo signal' wire? So in other words, it would be better to stick with a 3-wire unit since that 'Lo signal" wire doesn't even serve as a 'ground' and I'd only be using 3 of the wires correct? I appreciate the info bro. I know about the typo, just poking fun lol.

L8r,
Phoenix

 

To correctly use the split signals you need a PCM capable of reading them

For any stock 3rd gen ECM, use the 3 wire

 

Will do! Thanks for the information pocket .

Phoenix

 

Have a Bosch oe smart link sensor going in a SD tpi setup. Only? I have is, does it get a constant ignition hot? 2 heater wires, black signal wire, gray ground wire. Its a 4 wire without hi low operation, and says right in instructions gray ground is optional!