I need to measure for a new pushrod length for my head swap. What engine would have the solid roller lifters comparable to my hydraulic roller lifters? I've tried a search and got mostly argument over which is better.

 

What, exactly, are you asking? GM never installed any roller lifters that weren't hydraulic. But aftermarket retrofit-type hydraulic roller lifters for pre-87 SBC don't use the same pushrod length as GM roller lifters.

 

I need to measure for new pushrods for my hydraulic roller cam/lifter engine. The hydr lifters won't give me an accurate lift measurement. I want to pirate a couple soild roller lifters from the boneyard so that I can measure correctly, and I need to know what kind of engine or car would have them.

 

Okay, I get what you're wanting. Take one of your lifters, pop the snap ring out of the top, keep the guts in order for later reassembly, then you can find something, (I like kite string, and use a pencil to pack it in) to take up the space inside. Then replace the little cup that the pushrod seats on, and the snap ring, and you're ready to measure.

 

I appreciate the reply, but I'd really rather not mess with a good working piece. I want a used SRL, if you will.

 

That's the only way I ever did it in my 7 years as a professional automotive machinist. Sorry I can't tell you anything else you think helpful. That's all I can offer.

 

Don't think you'll find a used solid roller lifter the same length as stock, BUT you can find used stock hydraulic rollers all day THEN modify it (the recently purchased used one) as Atilla said above.

 

GM never put solid rollers in a factory car. You won't find one in the boneyard.
If you have factory GM hydraulic rollers, you can either grab one of those from the boneyard and mock it up as described by Atilla, or mock up one of your existing ones.

It isn't brain surgery, rebuilding a lifter is pretty easy.

 

Dammit, I hadn't thought of that. (no sarcasm ). Sorry Atilla, my mind has a hard time thinking outside of the box.

As a famous bald yellow man once said..."DOH!"

 

I wouldn't use string or anything else that will deflect for any type of precision measuring like for pushrod length. I also wouldn't do it without the torqued gasket in place, AND deciding on how much preload you intend to run in your hydraulics.
That's way too much error stacking for me.

There is no problem with using a hydraulic lifter for this, then returning it to operation.

 

Intersting observation 305. I'll find something to stuff in the lifter that is non-deflectual. The preload on the hydros is per the AFR or Comp Cams (forgot where I read it) literature, that being zero lash plus 1/8 turn.

You were in on my last thread where I got some advice about PTV/PR length. I'm wondering, if I do it Orr's way (from the other post), why could I not simply find the "correct" rod length & PTV clearance without the gasket, then add the compressed thickness of the gasket to that value and get the nearest pushrod and correct clearance figure? I don't want to seem like I'm trying to shortcut stuff on this rebuild, however it's enough that I will be buying some tools I will only use once, but spending an extra $70 on head gaskets that would only be used for testing doesnt really make sense.

That said and my inability to be creative, is there another way to do it all while torqing my heads down on the gasket only once? AND, while I've got your attention, when I bolt the engine to the stand, will it leave enough room for me to install/remove the flywheel, clutch, pilot bearing too? Where does it actually bolt up back there?

 

The string is actually good because it simulates the effect of the oil. Don't knock what works until you've tried it.

 

my last comment was directed at 305sbc, not at boss357

 

The 1/8 turn is a standard for some performance lifters. I think it works out to around 0.010" or slightly less.

You can do what you say and be close enough on a SBC. That method doesn't work as well on some other engines with more angle to the pushrods in relation to the deck. As a rule I always measure for pushrods last. It takes into account any additional milling that might be necessary, or a change to a headgasket that wasn't originally planned.

I definately wouldn't buy new gaskets for just the mock-up.

I have four engine stands and I can't really work with anything on the back of the block besides the rear main seal, with the engine bolted on. Stands use long bolts and thread into the holes where the transmission bellhousing would bolt to.

 

Thanks 305 & Atilla.

 

you bet. 305sbc is correct in being sure there's no more milling to be done. And this isn't my technique for any engines other than SBC and SBF, but we were discussing a SBC.