What are a few of the best bang for your buck heads for a 383 stroker?

 

AFR 180 or 195 Street Eliminators.

RBob.

 

Ok thanks are summit heads good? Cause they are alot cheaper and I prolly won't get them because I want quality but I am just cuious

 

Spend the money on the AFR heads if you can....they are far superior....I would go at least 195cc though....You can go with a cheaper head...like a procomp or summit...I did the procomp heads...but then had them custom ported (63 hours worth), to get them up to par....but I spend as much doing that As I would have if I would of gotten the CNC AFR heads.....To save some money to some companies make a good flowing cast iron head....just some food for thought...

 

Ok well AFR definatly sounds like it's worth the investment...so what pistons would you recomend with that combo interceptorZ?

Also is your 700R4 still holding up with your power or have you beefed it up?

 

depends on how much money you have...what compression you want....and what you want to do with the car.....they make different brands of course and different materials of pistons, but also different pistons for different rod lengths....most common two for 383 are 5.7 rods and 6.0 rods....which each rod length requires a different piston.....6.0 rods are better for higher revving motors, more top end power, plus less side load on cylinder walls, better durability....5.7 rods are the same as you stock rods....but produce more torque that the 6.0 rod...I prefer the 5.7 rods myself...but I more into mid range power for auto cross and road course racing, with occasional drag race....For straight up drag racing...I would use 6.0 rod....There are a ton of options for you....
what compression ratio do you want??
what cam will you be using??
any nitrous or supercharging/turbo??
Give us some more info and we can help you farther.....

 

First I am not for sure on the compression because I don't know too much about it yet and I am taking suggestions I just know I really don't wanna get over 10.5:1 Cause I wanna be able to run on premium pump gas with NO problems.

Second it's the same with the Cam...don't know lot but I know I want a roller cam, and I want something pretty mild so I can use as DD

Third there will be no Nitrous, supercharger, or turbo at this point but I don't want to be limited to where I can't in the future

anything else??

 

well if you have the money.......forged internals are the best..but if not...you can go with cast.... I prefer SCAT internals..but EAGLE and other.....check out summit's web page...look at the different kits....they should list the material type, the rod length, and piston compression.....you probably want to run a 64cc head..so make sure you look at that because not all pistons are rated for a 64cc head.....I think somewhere in the range of a flat top piston to a small dish to work...I'd have to look but a dome would be too much compression......are you using a 86 or new block or an older block...in other words two piece main or one piece main. Cause if you get a new 1-piece main block that was a factory roller cam, you don't have to get a retro-roller cam..which is a little more money. Also you know you have to bore block out (.030 over) and notch block for stroker motor at a maching shop. Do all your research though before buying anything, and make a game plan, and stick to it for sure.....add up all the cost and write every nut and bolt price down...including stuff like gaskets, hose, spark plugs, oil, coolant...every $$ you need to build this, all labor cost, then add $500 or more to top, and that's your price for your build you'll need....also are you using a carb or fuel injection???

 

Haven't got the block yet because I am going to build this when I return from basic training and AIT for the Army(Leave June 11th and return mid december) So I am not sure on what block yet just depends on what I find...it's gonna be 4 bolt main(DUH) and other than that not sure...also carb all the way much cheaper and easier to work with

 

true it's cheaper to use carb...I prefer FI though personally....on the block when you find one...now this is my opinion...I like the new 1 piece rear main blocks...but on the 4-bolt main thing.....here is what you do....buy a two bolt main block, and then buy the 4 bolt main conversion caps, and then have block drilled for 4 bolts when you have it as machine shop getting the machining done, it's stronger to convert a two bolt than it is to buy a 4 bolt main...also, it's easier to find a two bolt main motor anyways. Also, use an ARP stud kit instead of bolts, but make sure they line hone it with the stud kit, (just make sure they have the kit with them when you go). Make sure they notch it, line hone everything, check if for cracks, and also when they bore it, ask them to use a torque plate...it pulls up on the block like the heads would and give you a better more accurate bore.......

 

ok thanks but it seems alot easier to buy a 4 bolt main...I mean they were put into a million GM Trucks!

 

How much power are you after? AFR's will do just about whatever you want with the 195 cc heads and be streetable. I ran them on my 383 with 11 to 1 compression on 93 oct no problem. Made 400 hp at the tires. Was a nice motor with more available power with different cam and still would have been somewhat streetable

If your not looking to set records or whatever, just about any decent aftermarket head will work. Summit heads i have heard are just repackaged brodix heads..probly the IK's but i'm not sure. Jegs brand heads are repacked Canfields i've heard. Both of those heads will make good power..easily 450hp on motor.

AFR i feel offers the best head out the box..based on the flow numbers and valve train parts they have.

 

Ya I have decided on AFR's because I don't plan on doing anything too crazy now(goal is 400 at wheels) however I plan on keeping this car for a WHILE so I want to be set up well for expansion thanks

From what I heard they are definatly worth the money

 

Well 400 at the wheels is pretty stout but easily doable in a 383 while running pumpgas. Just need a cam that will peak in the 6000-6200 rpm range just about. I shoot for 6400-6500 rpm peak just for fun and make sure you get that 400 whp.

 

ok well here is the deal I am not going to buy a cam that peaks that high just so I can have a good dyno run because low end is WAY more important to me

plus if I ever acually dyno it I will prolly end up just doing an engine dyno and using that number cause I don't know anyone or anywhere around here that has a dyno

 

Dont worry about low end. A proper cam that makes power that high will still have GREAT lowend. My 383 made insane bottom end, enough to roast any tire at anything below 40mph if you werent carefull.

Low end power is overated anyway. Your rarely going WOT at rpms below 3000 rpm anyway. My 383 was over 350lb-ft tq at the tires at 3000 and reached peak of 380 or so by 4000 and held that to 4400 and stayed over 350 to 5100 rpm. Flat curve and very very powerful all around

 

O ok thanks

I do see what you mean I guess I just never looked at it that way because the GTP I had had really good low end(for a stock car) but not to great top end but I never cared

I was just kinda confused aout you saying to get a cam that peaked that high cause I thought if it did that then it was made for top end and would lack bottom end power but sweetness thanks alot

any particular cam suggestions?