Can i take off the oil pan without pulling the motor? when i put my cam in i did not take the oil pan off because it was not leaking before and i figured if it aint broke... well you know.... now at the bottom of my timing cover where that big rubber peice of the seal is it is leaking bad. can i pull the pan with the engine still in?

 

The pan can be dropped just enough to get a new gasket in there. Not much room though and you might need to jack up the motor a little.. It's a pain but it can be done.

Good luck

 

wow... so when i put the new seal in, do i pinch the timing seal inbetween the timing cover and the oil pan or does the timing seal just push against the front of the pan

 

You're faced with cramped quarters and the fact that you'll be breaking the pan's seal. If and when you get there, you'll need to remove as much of the old seals as possible and get the surfaces as clean as possible in order to help ensure the new seal does it's job. I'd suggest you purchase a one piece Fel-pro seal for this job (with the appropriate front seal thickness). Hit the edges of the timing cover and rear seal area with silicone sealer before you install the gasket and snake / slide the gasket in and press it into the timing cover groove. Button up the pan.

 

ok so fel pro one piece with rtv (oil resistant type) got it just hoist the motor up a bit and scrape and replace. good i will try that thanks

 

If you remove the motor mount bolts on each side, you can then raise the engine with plenty of room to get the pan all the way out and thus be able to really get the old gasket material out and clean it the way it should be. Just watch the distributor - take the cap off and make sure it doesn't hit the firewall when raising the engine up.

 

ya thats the plan cshould i put the rtv seal all the way around with the gasket or just on the front and back?

 

I think it's really just the corners due to the extra gap that kinda gets there. I would also put like little blocks between the clams when you lift the motor so you don't have to worry about the motor coming back down on ya.

 

I have to do this job on my RS this weekend. One question though, do you have to loosen the bolts on the transmission bell housing or crossmember in order to hoist the engine up since the engine is attached to that as well ??

 

You shouldn't have to. Just don't go up too high. a couple of inches max.

 

ok got everything disconected and ready to lift a couple of inches .... of coarse as normal i am finding many things wrong with this car as i do this the temp sensor was broken and needs replacement and like a dummy after already loosening the bolts on the oil pan i pull it to replace it with the new one i bought and of course i now have coolant that has run down into the pan so guess i am going to have to pot free the pan now too. another question how much is to much (talking shavings in the oil here) after driving on new cam lifters and springs for about 45 miles. it looked like i struck gold or something in my oil that i drained?

 

Don't forget to take the distributor cap off to get clearance for when you lift your engine. Also disconnect the tyranny cross member bolt to avoid stressing it out. I took this bolt off and the engine lifted pretty good.

 

oh ya cross member bolt thats prob a good call thanks. wont be able to get to it until sat prob working late all week but .... how much is enough when it comes to the sealant? one good size beed or a thin strip or what?

 

Actually I don't really know how much sealant to put. With mine I didn't put any RTV sealant since I had a high quality one piece rubber gasket that does not require any sealant, and it also came with these little alignment jigs so that you don't have to hold onto the gasket and the pan at the same time when your putting it on. Personally I would go for that gasket. Its 20-30 dollars more expensive, but it makes the job go a lot faster and easier.

 

ok so i put the gasket in and bolted the pan back on. put the starter back on. and the fuel pump (mech). and dist cap. now i cant get it to start and it keeps puffin black smoke while trying. smell fuel prob fluded it so i turned it over you know a few times. tryed again and it started but it was shaking violently and would not stay running unless i was on the gas hard any ideas

 

Out of curiosity, what is the fuel pump mechanism that you say that you had to remove to put the gasket on. I think that might something to do with the problem. I didn't have to take anything like that off when I did mine. 91 RS.

 

the mechanical fuel pump had to be removed because i put the engine mount bolts in from the front when i reinstalled the motor last time. so when i tryed to pull the engine mount bolt out the mech fuel pump was in the way. i can smell lots of fuell in the exhaust though so i just kind of figured the pump was good. the firing order would be 18436572 right? i am going to check it again today cause for that second that it was running i mean it sounded bad

 

Oh ya, I looked at my 86 today and realised that you cant get the motor mounts out unless you take the fuel pump off. I did this job on a 91 RS TBI, so it doesn't have the mechanical fuel pump in the way.

When you took the distributor cap off, did you take all the wires off too ? Is it possible that you put them back incorrectly ? Sounds too me like you have a firing order issue...like you say. Let me look at my manual too see the firing order for this, but yeah if its as bad sounding as you say it is, than that would point to a firing order issue I think.

How far did you have your engine hoisted ?

 

fixed it needed new cap and rotor and dizzy was chep and easy just needed a pro opinion and look i guess thanks all