went to change the oil today and it was grey and milky....talk about ruining your day...at least the motor wasnt knocking.... time for a rebuild...just to be safe

id first figure out what caused the milky oil. hopefully the block isn't cracked.

that could be exactly what it is....it saw the better side of 7 grand a few times...but i also had it over heat bad on me.... i launched it hard one day and when it twisted it cracked the tank on the radiator..and of course i did my best to baby it home stopping to add water when i needed to...being 50 miles away from home and having something like that happen sucks...when it broke the radiator appearently the interanal tranny cooler cracked also and let coolent into my tranny...so thats thrashed to.....all i can say if it is a cracked block...either a dart block will go back into it...or a new 6.0 ls based

i would think that the car wouldn't run at all if the block cracked. Its most likely a head gasket. Is the block bored at all? i was thinking maybe cracked cylinder wall. Those can be sleeved so maybe all isn't lost. But i would swing towards a ls1 motor and tranny.

its just got a .030 over bore....mainly for cleanup, if something is cracked...i already for a 6.0 truck engine with 55000 on it for 1100 at the local yard..

My oil is not milky..it looks 'healthy'..but as of late it has started a VERY annoying t i c k ing....

got the engine out today...right away i found a blown intake gasket..i had been having trouble with distributor gears and could never figure out why...i thought the oil pump was dragging well when i pulled the intake i noticed a bit of rust around the hole for the distributor and then saw the gasket had torn and pushed into the valley on the back passenger side coolant passageso it must have been shooting water right down onto the cam gear...i thought those 1205 felpro gaskets were suposed to be strong..lol. So at least i know its not the heads or block...gotta pull off the main and rod caps see how all that is....if the crank is thrashed seem like a good time to upgrade to a 383...still doing a complete rebuild anyway...better safe than sorry...

the ticking could be a sticking valve

go with a cast crank and get it balanced with all of your components (pistons, rods, rings) its well worth the money. If it wasnt knocking then you should be fine with your bearings.

that same stuff happened to me too, that ticking went away when i did a oil change with some lukas oil treatment