well i finally go a bottom end together it consists of eagle forged 6in h beam rods, forged eagle crank, forged keith black 12.3:1 pistons right now it has a comp cam 501 cam specs are 501 501 with a duration of 292*, i plan on using a set of dart track 1 heads, now my question to you what cam do you think would give me more power i know this is a decent cam but i think im losing alot by using it. any advice is greatly appreciated,

Mark

 

With the pistons and heads you have, the field is wide open just depends on what you want to do with it drag or street. And I think you mean Brodix track 1 heads or dart platinum.

 

first you need to decide the PRIMARY use of the vehicle....12:3:1 compression with track 1 heads is leaning towards the strip IMO. A solid/hyd. roller cam in at least the high 240s duration range and at least mid .5xx-.600 lift with a 3800-4000rpm stall.

 

ya i mean brodix my bad i am at work and kind of hurrying well i type,

 

well the car will see limited street action maybe a romp around the neighborhood to scare the kids,i kind of figured i would need a nice hydraulic roller cam any ways, i would like to be putting out 600 650 on motor and maybe a small shot

 

Track 1's are serious heads... a 12:1 383 with them should be capable of low 10's or better depending on weight. Buddy of mine had a 12.5:1 383 with home ported Track 1's and a custom solid roller that was somewhere in the 270's @ 050 on 107LSA with .600+ lift. It went 9.90's on motor in a 3100lb car off a footbrake...

The cam you're thinking of using sucks as does the recommendations from everyone else (not trying to come off as insulting, just sayin'). I'd highly recommend you call up a company such as Cam Motion and get a custom ground cam. If you're serious you'll go with a solid roller. a high compression 383 with such a head would lose tons of power with a baby cam in the 240's.

 

Going with a hyd. roller may be possible for you, but a solid roller will put out more power for abotu the same cost- the only downside is on valvesprings- you'll need some good ones.

240's is too low for a track car, but 270's is too high for anything you want to drive to the local grocery store- 250's-260's would be a good range depending on gearing and tire size. For a track you would probably want something around a 107 LSA but for street duty a 109 would flatten your tq a little bit so it would be a bit more driver friendly. If you're looking for durability I wouldn't go over .600" lift, it just wears parts faster for minimal gain in a dual purpose car.

 

12.3 to 1 is high for a street car. Running some good gas huh? I'd also look solid roller with that setup, somewhere in the high 240's, low 250's duration on the intake at .050

 

exactly.....i said at LEAST in the high 240s duration range which means a going a little bigger is ok too. For a lot of guys, the "bigger is better" sydrome will never die

 

im planning on a e85 conversion

 

Call Cam Motion 225-926-6110 ...you'll be in the mid 10's or better if you do.

 

does anyone have any idea how much hp this shortblock should be good to

 

i think i will call cam motion this weekend but in the mean time i was looking at some comp cams what do you guys think of this one http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=309&sb=2

 

Not a bad grind there, atleast just by looking at it. Could be abit more on the lift but it aint bad.


All forged internals with good rod bolts, that setup should easily hold over 650-700 hp at 7K rpm or more. crank/rods have been good to over 1000hp before with good rod bolts like ARP L19's. So you should be ok, as I assume your looking for a near 7K shift point if not a touch more?

 

exactly right in that range of 6800 to 7200,i would like to if possible use a small 125-250hp shot.

 

Not a bad cam, I'g definitely narrow the LSA though, at least go down to a 110. Don't forget to use good lifters, pressure few oiling so you don't lose one.