So I posted a thread before about my car not starting. Turns out it needed a new ignition coil, the old one was shot.
So I replaced that but only changed the 1 main wire going from the coil to where all 8 meet.
I didn't get around to changing the rest of the wires/plugs, and now my car wont start again after about a week of having it fixed.
It cranks but just wont start. Could it just be the wires/plugs that need replacing? ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

sounds exactly what mi is doing right NOW!!!! read Got fuel pressure....but wont start. that is my thread, you may have better luck than me.

 

what about that one wire you talked about

explain

 

i think the wires you are talking about are the ones on the back side of the ign mod? in my camaro, i dont know about f-birds, they are yellow and green. you cant tell which prong they are pluged into with it mounted. unmount it carefully, lift it up and look with a flashlight and see which is where. and maybe put that info in a sheet of paper in case you forget. you could always take a continuity tester, which is what i'm about to go out and do, and see which is hot.

 

Oh sorry I was talking about the spark plug wires. I just replaced the short one that goes from the coil to where all the spark plug wires meet.
When buying the car I was told it would eventually need a new fuel filter. Could this be the problem? Could it be that the car isnt getting any fuel?

 

just about the same problem im having. i just have no fuel or spark. a mechanic at my work told me to check the pickup coil ( white and green wires coming from ign module) but i asked my teacher at my school, he told me to check my crank sensor. i have replaced ign module, ign coil, pulgs, plug wires cap and rotor before. i got advance to get me anew mod and coil. still no spark or fuel.


is htis any help, cause i need to get the camaro out of the garage and hopefully into someone elses.

 

Well, looks like i need a new fuel pump. The tow truck driver actually knew about the car and got under as i cranked it and checked the fuel pump, and it didnt even attempt to kick on. So the rear/exhaust needs to be dropped in order to get to it?

 

Quick question for anyone who had to change their fuel pumps.
How long would such a job take? Also what do you think a shop would charge me to do the job for parts & labor??
I may have someone to do it for me but im just curious about what kind of work is needed to be done. Thanks

 

ur tank will have to be drained of fuel and dropped. it might take you 4 or so hours if you have never done it maybe....yes a shop will charge you for parts if you didnt bring parts to them, and they WILL charge labor most def.

 

So which pump should I go with? The cheapo acdelco one from pep boys. Or upgrade and order a Walbro 255? Id really love to keep this car as long as I can, plus its my daily driver, so would the aftermarket one be better?

 

check the relay first

 

BEFORE assuming the fuel pump is bad, dropping the tank to replace, and still having the issue...

1) As mentioned replace the fuel pump relay - this is $8 and 5 minutes as opposed to $75 and 1 day
2) Check the fuse located behind the battery and tucked in the fenderwell - it's located inside a weatherpack connector all by itself
3) Replace the fuel filter - it needs replaced anyway
4) Check for spark
5) Have someone lay their ear on the hump in the trunk and listen for the fuel pump again while you turn the key on
6) Replace the Oil Pressure Sending Unit ($30) - it also has control over the pump. In theory, if the relay works, then the pump should work regardless of the OPSU, but in the interest of not dropping the tank, it's worth a shot.

Replacing the fuel pump is a day's work - requires jacking the rear of the car at least 23 inches off the ground (most jacks only go to 20 inches) and getting jack stands at that height under the body in front of the LCA's, lowering the rear axle as far as it will go without breaking or stretching the brake line on the driver side (ie removing rear shock bolts, sway bar end links, LCA's, panhard bar, and the other bar above panhard bar), then the exhaust has to be dropped out (disconnect at the cat and wiggle it out over the dropped rear axle), then alot of cussing trying to wiggle that big bulky tank out. It's definitely NO FUN!

So ... exhaust all other possibilities BEFORE jumping to the conclusion that the pump needs replaced. Granted, the fuel pumps on these cars are usually overdue for changing - but too many folks jump to the fuel pump first when in fact it wasn't gone yet - and in this weather (Brrrrr) - try ANYTHING ELSE first!

 

im sure ill get heII for this one but if it is the pump i know an easier way to swap out a pump if its not a TPI, go into rear hatch area and remove carpet. on the flat top of the hatch in the center you can cut a whole and access the pump there, i did this to my old formula and made it into an access panel with nice edges and screws and a hinged plate. it will be recovered with the carpet anyway, i used high pressure flex fuel lines spliced into hard lines. if its a TPI engine you cannot do this because the pressure is too high for the lines.

oh and btw, dont use a cut off tool to cut above the pump! safety 1st

 

If TPI you can still cut the access hole to replace the pmp, just can't use the flex lines.

 

aren't those hard lines to the pump?? IIRC there isnt enough room to pull the pump out with the lines attached which is why i cut them...

 

Well my mechanic checked out the car. turns out there was no connection getting to the fuel pump, he just messed around with the wires or something and got it running. thank god the fuel pump didnt go on me, that woulda been one hell of a job.
Now my wallet is somewhat full and I can finally start doing some stuff to the car.
First up, niteshades on the taillights (: