rs owner

I just bought a 89 rs t-top auto HO305v8 and ddon't know anything about the car the previous owner said that tranny would not get 3rd and over d.

He said that the motor would start but needed a battery I got it home and stuck a battery in and tried to start but nothing. the starter turns and the motor turns but will not crank and there's a switch on dash that seems to work the fuel pump when I flip it you can hear the pump kick and prime

I don't want my wife to think that I just wasted $600 on the body so please

88gta_hiflyer

iTrader: (1)

700r4 transmissions are a dime a dozen. You can probably get one cheaper. I'd try to stick with one from a 3rd gen too. That way you avoid unexpected problems such as sensors in different locations etc. Unfortunately it sounds like someone has hacked up your wiring. That can be quite a task to straighten out. However, the first thing I would do is see if you have spark, and check your fuel pressure. By HO 305 I assume you are refering to the throttle body injected 305. You might want to try posting on the tbi forum. Those guys might be able to help you out more.

jv9999

iTrader: (1)

I hate to be mean, but you might have stuck a battery in it *before* you bought it. I think you bought a parts car. I hope you're a fast learner.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Sounds like you bought a basket case... Did you get a title with it? Does the title VIN match the cars VIN? If you don't have a valid, clear title, I'd stop right there.

Assuming you hear the fuel pump prime, I'd start by pulling at least one plug and look for obvious problems. Then check spark. While you're at it, check that the injectors are pulsing.

BTW whoever told you it's a HO 305 either lied, or was simply ignorant, unless that engine came out of another car, the only V8 available in that year in the RS is a throttle body fuel injected low output 305.

rs owner

ok I really didn't care about the 305 and your right it is lo305 I'm trying to line up a 350 w/ carb anyway I was just trying to get a miles out of the car to take my time looking for the bigboy. I will try what you told me out the gate and if I can't get it to fire then oh well and I did check for spark it had it on the first spark plug wire on drivers side. and will double check the firing order and I did not see gas spray in the carb when turning over the engine are the two injectors bad? how to check? in day time I did this at night. what about anti theft? or should I just stop until I can get tranny and engine. A guy knows where I can get a 327 and tranny running. I will ask him to let me drive to check out maybe $600 for the combo all carb. oh and title is good. thank you so much.

TZFBird

First of all, the 3-4 clutch pack is out. Probably from someone screwing with TV cable, or it streched a bit. If you've never messed with a trans before and are feeling brave you can buy the most basic rebuild kit with clutches and a manual for maybe $75. If you are carefull you should be able to open it up and just replace those depending on how much the debris spread and put it back together and be done with it after changing fluid and filter. I got lucky when this happened to me and the burnt clutch material stayed in the clutch pack and the fluid stayed clean for the most part.

1. Check fuel... pull filter housing cover and watch spray pattern while someone is cranking engine over(after you flip your fuel pump switch). If it's a nice constant cone proceed to step 2. If not try to figure out why. Obviously the pump was replaced or it had some sort of problem, so start tracing back to the pump to make sure you have fuel flow. Might just need a filter.

2. Check spark. I pull a plug wire off and attempt to hold the boot to a bolt. Carefull where you hold the wire because you'll find out real fast if you have spark when it lights you up. If nothing, I'd take the ignition module out of the distributor in for testing. If you have spark, you might want to check timing while you're at it.

3. Air. One thing I've run into is that the IAC(~1" diameter metal cylinder with a 4-wire plug on the end) on the passenger side of the throttle body will get clogged up with carbon/gunk and will not open. Try removing that and cleaning it up with some WD-40 or electrical parts cleaner. This adjusts the air that is required to start the engine. Along with this you shoud check the IAC. Get yourself a volt meter and do a search for checking IAC calibration.

That should at least get you started. Just think of the fire pyramid. Fuel, air, ignition. All three are required for an engine to at least fire up. Once you get that far and can run at least 3-5 seconds. Then you'd want to move on to sensors that take over after that.

rs owner

oh my gooodness thank you soooooooooooooooooo much and I will jump on that asap we are supposed to have some really bad weather this weekend and I may not be able to do but as soon as the weathere breaks it's on!!!!!!!!!!!!! anything else and everyone else you are welcome to advise and thank you

88gta_hiflyer

iTrader: (1)

You should definately change the fuel filter. You can get one for around $10 and it takes 15 minutes at most. That way you can at least rule that out and possibly save yourself some headaches.

rs owner

All of this is a will do can't wait to get home and start trying what I've learned and I will post what i find out. If this 305 is some good then I'll have a little driving time this spring I plan to build a 350v8 beast. from what I see I can get a stock assembly from advance auto for $1000 and have heads and all except intake and bolt on's and I can use all of that off the 305 but first thing first. I will let you know and thanx to everybody

Drew

iTrader: (58)

I wouldn't throw any part at the car without having a really good impression the part is bad. That's a really good way to make yourself broke and still have a car that doesn't run. If you just assume that a part is bad, you'll likely miss the actual problem. You need to diagnose the problem. The beauty is that it doesn't cost anything to diagnose the problem. There's no sense in throwing good money after bad.

Not that it's entirely relevant, but you asked... Just about everything attached to a LO3 is going to be a huge restriction on any kind of performance engine. The intake system, and exhaust, is a significant part of why that engine is rated at 170hp and the TPI 305 is rated over 200hp. If you want performance, you'll probably want to upgrade just about every part of that drivetrain from air cleaner lid to tail pipes.

rs owner

o.k. here's what I did yesterday before it got dark. I tapped on the fuel tank while the wife turned the key and yes it has a fuel pump switch flipped the switch and the pump kicked flipped it back and nothing the tank sounded empty so I got 3gal. of 93 octane. and then for the first time I seen what injector pulsing was. took out the IAC and had carbon on pentil found a website www.wonderhowto.com showing how to test the IAC with ohmmeter don't know if done correctly but i tried. next is whether or not it has proper fuel pressure and firing order and then timing. IDK alot about the VATS I do have the key for the car but that still could b the prob right?

Told the wife that diagnosis doesn't cost anything so I can at least look for the prob. Why do these have a fuel pump switch is that part of antitheft? And I feel adventurous I believe in my heart that if I had a manual that I can do that tranny Drew are there any books on a complete rebuild (stepbystep) just in case it's worse than we think? What's the worse that can happen? it already doesn't work. All I can do is break it again. and thanx for the specs on the 305. definitely the ac,ps,alt, are about all that I can use off the motor (don't have to have ac got ttop). in about may I want a 350 will I have to use any of the computer stuff with a carb?

rs owner

O.k. here's what I know I looked under the kick panel and it looks like someone tried to bypass the vats and did not know what they were doing I'm taking the car to teh shop of my dad's friend so that he can diagnose quicker i will let you know what he finds

88gta_hiflyer

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you can find some wiring diagrams for your specific year and model on this board. That will save you or whoever is assessing the damage a lot of frustration. When I bought my car I quickly found out that the previous owner was also a self taught electrical engineer. Trust me, your gonna want the diagrams.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

I'd cut to the chase and buy a HELM/GM service manual for your year Camaro off Ebay. If you bargain hunt a little you can probably find one under $50. That will give you more accurate information on any relevant topic then you'll ever find on this forum.

mister_hudson

iTrader: (3)

Good advice! I picked up one off of Amazon for $30 used - all that really matters is that all the pages are there!

mr305

iTrader: (1)

I dont think its the VATS system. From my personal experience with VATS (which unfortunately was all bad ha ha) when my VATS system was not working it would cut the fuel and the spark both at the same time. So if you have both fuel and spark its gonna be something else. Goodluck hope you get it fixed soon!

rs owner

hey thanx man I putting it my dad's friends shop he will figure it out and tell me if I can use the 305 or if i need to go ahead and get the 350. by the way I tried to post to the classifieds section of this forum and can't. does anyone know if there are any black,dark grey, or dark charcoal seats available for sale near 28334 NC (need pics and price) I don't know if I can use power or if there is a way to convert mine are man.

88gta_hiflyer

iTrader: (1)

PM sent

rs owner

well this is what I found this weekend for $600 this is for a future motor maybe even in another car. this will be a my first build I thiink it is good for a first timer what do ya'll think. here it is:

Fresh 40 over 350 block 2 bolt main with arp main studs
Bored and honed with torque plate, decked
Brass freeze plugs with clevite cam bearings
Cast crank turned 10/10 with clevite main bearings
Rebuilt rods with arp wavelock bolts and clevite bearings
Speed Pro Hyperutectic flat top pistons with speed pro moly rings
Assembled with all clearances checked

rs owner

just an update by the end of the week my dad's friend said that he would have the low down on the RS. I know that some people don't like to mix models but I picked some orig. Iroc rims and 80% tread low pro michelins for $380 he wanted 600 is this a good deal. be brutally honest? did I get ripped?

rs owner

o.k. I took some time off and this is what I found out the not starting IDK what caused it. My dad's friend took the car put in no.1 spark plug and a new rotor button that I broke off and pumped the gas 10 times and turned the key. I feel stupid but the thing runs like a beast. It's like I heard " RELEASE THE KRACKEN" and the car not shifting or moving the shifter cable was broke someone tied a piece of rope to it so they could shift it. the neutral safety switch was disconnected and the transmission was low in fluid. There is no muffler just strait pipe and its rusted so he is putting flowmasters on it. hey!!!!!!! maybe I'm wrong but not bad for $600 and me and my dad can fix the tranny leak. ohhh it is a 305
fix drivers seat, paint job, $38 fender, rear quarter panel, right corner of spoiler, and weatherstripping around doors and a dash pad and I'm tickled and to think that i was 2days from putting on CList for $400

rs owner

I have a ? how would I check out a transmission to make sure that it is rebuilt like the seller says it is? mine will shift into 1&2 but not 3rd ( 700r4) 89rs 140000+miles

Goany

ask to take a look at the torque converter that came off of it and make sure the fluid aint dark at all then pull the pan off and check for shavings/chunks of metal and see if everything looks clean. i work at a tranny shop and cleaned over 200 tranny's and let me tell you if it was rebuilt right it will be clean if not the people rebuilding it didnt really care and i'd walk away

rs owner

here's what i was told that a 700r4 will only bolt to a thirdgen or something like that adn that it doesn't matter if the housing is got the flat plate looking top or the pointed top. the pointed to (btween the two top bolts) will only hook up to chevy engines while the flat plate will hook to any GM is this tru? bcause I have a 700 that a guy is selling that is rebuilt and ready for a v8 it was for his truck but the truck got wrecked bfor he could install. $200 and is ready to b stuck in as soon as I say go. PPPPPPPPlleeeaaaseeee help me the one he has is the square top btween the bolt holes.

rs owner

thanx DREW it was the v6 tranny they originally told me it was for a v8 but thanx to you I did not make that mistake. I iknow where I can get one with a warrantee and not have to worry about that. NOW SEE THAT IS WHY I LIKE THIRDGEN.ORG. by the way after replacing the: plugs, 2.5qt tranny fluid, antifreeze, and temp control sensor, rotor button,and shifter cable the thing runs like a top just won't get high gear. I going to do a used tranny until I can get a total rebuild. thank you!!!!!!!!!!