setting valve lash
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: mo
Car: 04 gtp, 96 f150, 88 camaro
Engine: 3.8sc, 5.0, 385ci
Transmission: auto, 5speed, 700r4
setting valve lash
There is a great wealth of knowledge and info to be found by the members of this board, and i thank them all for sharing it.
Being mainly a lurker on the forum, I thought that maybe I should contribute a little info. I have read a LOT of posts where improper lash settings(solid cams) or preload setting(hyd cams) cause trouble on start up.
Here is the easiest way to set the valves during a rebuild or a cam swap that i have found.
A good rule of thumb for solid cams is to set the lash 002-.003 looser than specs when cold. Then readjust to mfg specs when engine is at operating temp.
For hyd cams about .030 is a good preload amount (I have heard anywhere from 1/4 to 1 full turn after zero lash for this seting.) I have found a 1/2 turn works well for me. Although this topic is debated more than the airplane on a converter belt.
Bring the engine to top dead center(TDC) for cylinder #1 on compression stroke. Both of the timming marks should be at the 12:00 position or, the timming mark at zero degrees, and the lifters for #1 should both be at the bottom of thier travel in the lifter bores.
Now the engine is in the #1 firing position.
Adjust the intake valves on cyl #s 1,2,5,and 7
Adjust the exhaust valves on cyl #s 1,3,4,and 8
Then rotate the engine 360 degrees so the timing marks are at 12:00 again, or the timming mark is back at zero degrees.
now the engine is in the #6 firing position.
Adjust the Intake valves on cyl #s 3,4,6, and 8
Adjust the exhaust valves on cyl #s 2,5,6, and 7.
This procedure only works on small blocks with a conventional firing order of 18436572.
I have this to be a quick and easy way to set the lash on my motors. And I hope it helps someone out.
If anyone has found an easier way please feel to share.
Being mainly a lurker on the forum, I thought that maybe I should contribute a little info. I have read a LOT of posts where improper lash settings(solid cams) or preload setting(hyd cams) cause trouble on start up.
Here is the easiest way to set the valves during a rebuild or a cam swap that i have found.
A good rule of thumb for solid cams is to set the lash 002-.003 looser than specs when cold. Then readjust to mfg specs when engine is at operating temp.
For hyd cams about .030 is a good preload amount (I have heard anywhere from 1/4 to 1 full turn after zero lash for this seting.) I have found a 1/2 turn works well for me. Although this topic is debated more than the airplane on a converter belt.
Bring the engine to top dead center(TDC) for cylinder #1 on compression stroke. Both of the timming marks should be at the 12:00 position or, the timming mark at zero degrees, and the lifters for #1 should both be at the bottom of thier travel in the lifter bores.
Now the engine is in the #1 firing position.
Adjust the intake valves on cyl #s 1,2,5,and 7
Adjust the exhaust valves on cyl #s 1,3,4,and 8
Then rotate the engine 360 degrees so the timing marks are at 12:00 again, or the timming mark is back at zero degrees.
now the engine is in the #6 firing position.
Adjust the Intake valves on cyl #s 3,4,6, and 8
Adjust the exhaust valves on cyl #s 2,5,6, and 7.
This procedure only works on small blocks with a conventional firing order of 18436572.
I have this to be a quick and easy way to set the lash on my motors. And I hope it helps someone out.
If anyone has found an easier way please feel to share.
Member

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Bergen, Norway
Car: '87 Camaro SC
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: setting valve lash
Copy pasted from one of skirklands1980's posts. Never tried it myself, but it seems really quick and easy:
1) Loosen all of the rocker arms.
2) Bring the engine to the TDC mark (doesn't matter if it's on #1 or #6 firing position).
3) Take the slack out of all of the rockers (just take out the slack, nothing more at this point).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 1/2 turn.
5) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 12 of them loose, but check them all).
6) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction (back to TDC).
7) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 8 of them loose, but check them all).
8) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction.
9) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (getting the picture yet? There should be 4 loose, but check them all).
10) Give each rocker one additional full turn down.
11) You're done.
Note: This only works with hydraulic lifters.
Pulling the #1 spark plug and watching for compression as the crank approaches TDC is the "best" way to determine #1 firing position. You can be fooled looking at the rockers.
1) Loosen all of the rocker arms.
2) Bring the engine to the TDC mark (doesn't matter if it's on #1 or #6 firing position).
3) Take the slack out of all of the rockers (just take out the slack, nothing more at this point).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 1/2 turn.
5) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 12 of them loose, but check them all).
6) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction (back to TDC).
7) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 8 of them loose, but check them all).
8) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction.
9) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (getting the picture yet? There should be 4 loose, but check them all).
10) Give each rocker one additional full turn down.
11) You're done.
Note: This only works with hydraulic lifters.
Pulling the #1 spark plug and watching for compression as the crank approaches TDC is the "best" way to determine #1 firing position. You can be fooled looking at the rockers.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Copy pasted from one of skirklands1980's posts. Never tried it myself, but it seems really quick and easy:
1) Loosen all of the rocker arms.
2) Bring the engine to the TDC mark (doesn't matter if it's on #1 or #6 firing position).
3) Take the slack out of all of the rockers (just take out the slack, nothing more at this point).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 1/2 turn.
5) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 12 of them loose, but check them all).
6) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction (back to TDC).
7) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 8 of them loose, but check them all).
8) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction.
9) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (getting the picture yet? There should be 4 loose, but check them all).
10) Give each rocker one additional full turn down.
11) You're done.
Note: This only works with hydraulic lifters.
1) Loosen all of the rocker arms.
2) Bring the engine to the TDC mark (doesn't matter if it's on #1 or #6 firing position).
3) Take the slack out of all of the rockers (just take out the slack, nothing more at this point).
4) Rotate the crankshaft 1/2 turn.
5) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 12 of them loose, but check them all).
6) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction (back to TDC).
7) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (should be 8 of them loose, but check them all).
8) Rotate the crankshaft another 1/2 turn in the same direction.
9) Take the slack out of any loose rockers (getting the picture yet? There should be 4 loose, but check them all).
10) Give each rocker one additional full turn down.
11) You're done.
Note: This only works with hydraulic lifters.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ambainb
Camaros for Sale
11
Apr 25, 2016 09:21 PM
1988iroc350tpi
Tech / General Engine
8
Aug 14, 2015 07:52 PM






