Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
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From: Winchester, VA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS/1989 Vert RS
Engine: 355/350
Transmission: T-5/T-5
Axle/Gears: BW9bolt3.45posi/3.23 Posi
Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
I have a 638 block and I need to adjust the valves. I want to do the method when its running cause it sounds easier. I'm just worried about oil getting everywhere. Is there a way to avoid it?
If not how much oil will I loose about?
I need some wire looms to make sure my new MSD wires don't hit my exhaust manifolds. Can someone post some pictures of their wirelooms with centerbolt valve covers and a model number of some sort?
If not how much oil will I loose about?
I need some wire looms to make sure my new MSD wires don't hit my exhaust manifolds. Can someone post some pictures of their wirelooms with centerbolt valve covers and a model number of some sort?
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: savannah, ga
Car: 91 chevy camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4 built with corvette servo
Axle/Gears: posi 3:73
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
i wouldnt adjust the vavles while running. why? because its just and estimate, ive been doing this along time and i use to adjust them while running, and when i leaarned the proper way i also learned the car like it better being right on instead of CLOSE...... check back i will post a reply with a easy and correct way to adjust them chevy vavles.
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: savannah, ga
Car: 91 chevy camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4 built with corvette servo
Axle/Gears: posi 3:73
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
There are a several methods for a valve adjustment on a chevy small block engine. Everyone seems to have a valve adjustment method they are most comfortable with and some of them will work well, but some are an inaccurate valve adjustment method.
You are going to learn how to do the valve adjustment, or more appropriately, adjust the lash or clearance between the rocker arms and the head of the valve stems using a method that will work for all 4 stroke internal combustion engines. The only difference between engine makes and models would be the details such as the number of turns after you have reached a zero lash, or in the case of solid lifters, the lash setting.
First consider that there is a relationship between the high position on each cam lobe for each cylinder respective of which stroke the cylinder happens to be in. We are going to adjust each valve at a time relative to the position of its peer valve ( or cam lobe ), either the intake or exhaust. This method insures the cam lobe for the valve you are adjusting is directly opposite the valve lifter and there is no measure of lift acting on the valve train components .
To do the valve adjustment you will need to crank the engine over in the same direction it would turn if it were running. If the engine is not in the vehicle you can turn the flywheel, or if it is in the vehicle you can use a remote starter button.
You will do the intake valve adjustment as the exhaust valve is just opening and you do the exhaust valve adjustment as the intake valve is almost closed. You might need to say that quite a few times to memorize it.
2.Identify the number one cylinder. See the page on Firing Order on the menu to the right if you are not sure which cylinder is number one.
3.Turn the engine over until you see the number one cylinder exhaust valve rocker arm JUST START to move from the closed position to open. You may need to turn the motor over a couple of times to reach this point, but do not turn any further.
4.Locate the intake valve.
5.Loosen the rocker arm adjustment nut until you feel some obvious lash or clearance in the adjustment.
6.Using the thumb and index finger of one hand, grasp the intake push rod below the rocker arm, and rotate it back and forth (clock-wise and counter clock-wise successively to be sure there is no remaining pressure on the push rod from the rocker arm as you loosen the rocker arm adjusting nut.
7.Using the other hand, while continuously performing step 6, with a 5/8 socket and ratchet, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut slowly until you feel a resistance of motion on the push rod.
This will be the zero lash adjustment point. For hydraulic lifters, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut 3/4 of a turn. For solid lifters, back off the rocker arm adjustment nut until your feeler gauge just fits under the contact point between the valve stem and the rocker arm. Fine tune the adjustment by checking it with a feeler gauge just slightly thicker than the preferred clearance to be sure the clearance is not greater than it should be. If the larger feeler gauge will fit, it needs to be re-adjusted. A lash tolerance of 1-2 thousandths of an inch in the valve adjustment for solid lifters would be acceptable since it may be difficult for someone who is in-experienced to be more precise than that.
8.Turn the engine over until the intake valve opens and then is almost closed.
On the exhaust valve, repeat steps 5 through 8 for the exhaust valve adjustment.
Repeat this procedure for each cylinder. Be sure to do each cylinder sequentially, either following the firing order, following the cylinders numerically, or in the case of a V8 doing one side of the engine at a time. I prefer to do one side of the engine at a time
#1 on chevy is on the head that sticks forward more, make is easy its on the driver side closet to front of motor on chevy 350
You are going to learn how to do the valve adjustment, or more appropriately, adjust the lash or clearance between the rocker arms and the head of the valve stems using a method that will work for all 4 stroke internal combustion engines. The only difference between engine makes and models would be the details such as the number of turns after you have reached a zero lash, or in the case of solid lifters, the lash setting.
First consider that there is a relationship between the high position on each cam lobe for each cylinder respective of which stroke the cylinder happens to be in. We are going to adjust each valve at a time relative to the position of its peer valve ( or cam lobe ), either the intake or exhaust. This method insures the cam lobe for the valve you are adjusting is directly opposite the valve lifter and there is no measure of lift acting on the valve train components .
To do the valve adjustment you will need to crank the engine over in the same direction it would turn if it were running. If the engine is not in the vehicle you can turn the flywheel, or if it is in the vehicle you can use a remote starter button.
You will do the intake valve adjustment as the exhaust valve is just opening and you do the exhaust valve adjustment as the intake valve is almost closed. You might need to say that quite a few times to memorize it.
Here are step by step instructions:
1.Remove the valve cover.2.Identify the number one cylinder. See the page on Firing Order on the menu to the right if you are not sure which cylinder is number one.
3.Turn the engine over until you see the number one cylinder exhaust valve rocker arm JUST START to move from the closed position to open. You may need to turn the motor over a couple of times to reach this point, but do not turn any further.
4.Locate the intake valve.
5.Loosen the rocker arm adjustment nut until you feel some obvious lash or clearance in the adjustment.
6.Using the thumb and index finger of one hand, grasp the intake push rod below the rocker arm, and rotate it back and forth (clock-wise and counter clock-wise successively to be sure there is no remaining pressure on the push rod from the rocker arm as you loosen the rocker arm adjusting nut.
7.Using the other hand, while continuously performing step 6, with a 5/8 socket and ratchet, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut slowly until you feel a resistance of motion on the push rod.
This will be the zero lash adjustment point. For hydraulic lifters, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut 3/4 of a turn. For solid lifters, back off the rocker arm adjustment nut until your feeler gauge just fits under the contact point between the valve stem and the rocker arm. Fine tune the adjustment by checking it with a feeler gauge just slightly thicker than the preferred clearance to be sure the clearance is not greater than it should be. If the larger feeler gauge will fit, it needs to be re-adjusted. A lash tolerance of 1-2 thousandths of an inch in the valve adjustment for solid lifters would be acceptable since it may be difficult for someone who is in-experienced to be more precise than that.
8.Turn the engine over until the intake valve opens and then is almost closed.
On the exhaust valve, repeat steps 5 through 8 for the exhaust valve adjustment.
Repeat this procedure for each cylinder. Be sure to do each cylinder sequentially, either following the firing order, following the cylinders numerically, or in the case of a V8 doing one side of the engine at a time. I prefer to do one side of the engine at a time
#1 on chevy is on the head that sticks forward more, make is easy its on the driver side closet to front of motor on chevy 350
Last edited by game1939; Mar 20, 2010 at 08:24 PM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
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From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,014
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From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
On a solid cam you'll be adjusting valve lash which is basically the CLEARANCE between the tip of the rocker arm and the valve stem when the lifter is on the BASE CIRCLE of the camshaft lobe.
On a hydraulic cam you'll be adjusting LIFTER PRELOAD which is basically how much the lifter plunger is depressed when the lifter is on the BASE CIRCLE of the camshaft lobe. So in the interest of more precise language, youi won't be adjusting the valves.
The most commonly recommended and accurate method is what's referred to as the Intake Closing/Exhaust Opening (IC/EO) method, which was described in a previous post.
I use that method exclusively but I've used a few different ways to turn the engine. Hand held bump starter, using the ignition key to bump the engine and manually turning the engine with a ratchet/socket.
If you're a "first-timer", don't get discouraged when you get confused when trying to set the preload; happens all the time. Just follow the directions specifically but when you run into problems, let us know and we'll walk you through it.
Jake
On a hydraulic cam you'll be adjusting LIFTER PRELOAD which is basically how much the lifter plunger is depressed when the lifter is on the BASE CIRCLE of the camshaft lobe. So in the interest of more precise language, youi won't be adjusting the valves.
The most commonly recommended and accurate method is what's referred to as the Intake Closing/Exhaust Opening (IC/EO) method, which was described in a previous post.
I use that method exclusively but I've used a few different ways to turn the engine. Hand held bump starter, using the ignition key to bump the engine and manually turning the engine with a ratchet/socket.
If you're a "first-timer", don't get discouraged when you get confused when trying to set the preload; happens all the time. Just follow the directions specifically but when you run into problems, let us know and we'll walk you through it.
Jake
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
There are a several methods for a valve adjustment on a chevy small block engine. Everyone seems to have a valve adjustment method they are most comfortable with and some of them will work well, but some are an inaccurate valve adjustment method.
You are going to learn how to do the valve adjustment, or more appropriately, adjust the lash or clearance between the rocker arms and the head of the valve stems using a method that will work for all 4 stroke internal combustion engines. The only difference between engine makes and models would be the details such as the number of turns after you have reached a zero lash, or in the case of solid lifters, the lash setting.
First consider that there is a relationship between the high position on each cam lobe for each cylinder respective of which stroke the cylinder happens to be in. We are going to adjust each valve at a time relative to the position of its peer valve ( or cam lobe ), either the intake or exhaust. This method insures the cam lobe for the valve you are adjusting is directly opposite the valve lifter and there is no measure of lift acting on the valve train components .
To do the valve adjustment you will need to crank the engine over in the same direction it would turn if it were running. If the engine is not in the vehicle you can turn the flywheel, or if it is in the vehicle you can use a remote starter button.
You will do the intake valve adjustment as the exhaust valve is just opening and you do the exhaust valve adjustment as the intake valve is almost closed. You might need to say that quite a few times to memorize it.
2.Identify the number one cylinder. See the page on Firing Order on the menu to the right if you are not sure which cylinder is number one.
3.Turn the engine over until you see the number one cylinder exhaust valve rocker arm JUST START to move from the closed position to open. You may need to turn the motor over a couple of times to reach this point, but do not turn any further.
4.Locate the intake valve.
5.Loosen the rocker arm adjustment nut until you feel some obvious lash or clearance in the adjustment.
6.Using the thumb and index finger of one hand, grasp the intake push rod below the rocker arm, and rotate it back and forth (clock-wise and counter clock-wise successively to be sure there is no remaining pressure on the push rod from the rocker arm as you loosen the rocker arm adjusting nut.
7.Using the other hand, while continuously performing step 6, with a 5/8 socket and ratchet, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut slowly until you feel a resistance of motion on the push rod.
This will be the zero lash adjustment point. For hydraulic lifters, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut 3/4 of a turn. For solid lifters, back off the rocker arm adjustment nut until your feeler gauge just fits under the contact point between the valve stem and the rocker arm. Fine tune the adjustment by checking it with a feeler gauge just slightly thicker than the preferred clearance to be sure the clearance is not greater than it should be. If the larger feeler gauge will fit, it needs to be re-adjusted. A lash tolerance of 1-2 thousandths of an inch in the valve adjustment for solid lifters would be acceptable since it may be difficult for someone who is in-experienced to be more precise than that.
8.Turn the engine over until the intake valve opens and then is almost closed.
On the exhaust valve, repeat steps 5 through 8 for the exhaust valve adjustment.
Repeat this procedure for each cylinder. Be sure to do each cylinder sequentially, either following the firing order, following the cylinders numerically, or in the case of a V8 doing one side of the engine at a time. I prefer to do one side of the engine at a time
#1 on chevy is on the head that sticks forward more, make is easy its on the driver side closet to front of motor on chevy 350
You are going to learn how to do the valve adjustment, or more appropriately, adjust the lash or clearance between the rocker arms and the head of the valve stems using a method that will work for all 4 stroke internal combustion engines. The only difference between engine makes and models would be the details such as the number of turns after you have reached a zero lash, or in the case of solid lifters, the lash setting.
First consider that there is a relationship between the high position on each cam lobe for each cylinder respective of which stroke the cylinder happens to be in. We are going to adjust each valve at a time relative to the position of its peer valve ( or cam lobe ), either the intake or exhaust. This method insures the cam lobe for the valve you are adjusting is directly opposite the valve lifter and there is no measure of lift acting on the valve train components .
To do the valve adjustment you will need to crank the engine over in the same direction it would turn if it were running. If the engine is not in the vehicle you can turn the flywheel, or if it is in the vehicle you can use a remote starter button.
You will do the intake valve adjustment as the exhaust valve is just opening and you do the exhaust valve adjustment as the intake valve is almost closed. You might need to say that quite a few times to memorize it.
Here are step by step instructions:
1.Remove the valve cover.2.Identify the number one cylinder. See the page on Firing Order on the menu to the right if you are not sure which cylinder is number one.
3.Turn the engine over until you see the number one cylinder exhaust valve rocker arm JUST START to move from the closed position to open. You may need to turn the motor over a couple of times to reach this point, but do not turn any further.
4.Locate the intake valve.
5.Loosen the rocker arm adjustment nut until you feel some obvious lash or clearance in the adjustment.
6.Using the thumb and index finger of one hand, grasp the intake push rod below the rocker arm, and rotate it back and forth (clock-wise and counter clock-wise successively to be sure there is no remaining pressure on the push rod from the rocker arm as you loosen the rocker arm adjusting nut.
7.Using the other hand, while continuously performing step 6, with a 5/8 socket and ratchet, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut slowly until you feel a resistance of motion on the push rod.
This will be the zero lash adjustment point. For hydraulic lifters, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut 3/4 of a turn. For solid lifters, back off the rocker arm adjustment nut until your feeler gauge just fits under the contact point between the valve stem and the rocker arm. Fine tune the adjustment by checking it with a feeler gauge just slightly thicker than the preferred clearance to be sure the clearance is not greater than it should be. If the larger feeler gauge will fit, it needs to be re-adjusted. A lash tolerance of 1-2 thousandths of an inch in the valve adjustment for solid lifters would be acceptable since it may be difficult for someone who is in-experienced to be more precise than that.
8.Turn the engine over until the intake valve opens and then is almost closed.
On the exhaust valve, repeat steps 5 through 8 for the exhaust valve adjustment.
Repeat this procedure for each cylinder. Be sure to do each cylinder sequentially, either following the firing order, following the cylinders numerically, or in the case of a V8 doing one side of the engine at a time. I prefer to do one side of the engine at a time
#1 on chevy is on the head that sticks forward more, make is easy its on the driver side closet to front of motor on chevy 350
Seems that what some folks think is resistance, or more precisely SLIGHT resistance, means different things to different people. Some posts I've read showed the person making the adjustment tightening the nut/poly-lock until the pushrod couldn't be twisted at all! Using up and down eliminates that area of confusion.
I hope he takes your advice and uses the method you posted.
Jake
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 295
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From: Burnaby, B.C.
Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
I modified a stock 70's wire loom mount from a flange-mounted setup
Center Picture in my post #26
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...ader-help.html
You'll see it on the 2nd from front bolt where I used 1 Moroso loom
The clamps you should be able to find
http://www.taylorvertex.com/hp/index...WireSeparators
They were a bit tough to fit my 8.5mm wires
I used 2 full sets to stop the wires from touching anything
Center Picture in my post #26
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...ader-help.html
You'll see it on the 2nd from front bolt where I used 1 Moroso loom
The clamps you should be able to find
http://www.taylorvertex.com/hp/index...WireSeparators
They were a bit tough to fit my 8.5mm wires
I used 2 full sets to stop the wires from touching anything
Last edited by Gregzz4; Mar 21, 2010 at 03:03 PM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Burnaby, B.C.
Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: Need to adjust valves and need pictures of sparkplug wire looms
Please look at my pics I linked to and see if you like how it looks
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: beats me
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