I just removed my old gauge cluster that had dummy lights. I have two sets of new gauge clusters with actual gauges, one has and electric speedometer and one has a mechanical speedometer. My car has a mechanical speedometer but the mechanical replacement I have is in need of the plactic cover over the gauges.

I installed the one with the electric speedo tonight and just didn't hook up the sppedometer just to try it out. It appeared that the fuel, voltage, and oil pressure gauges worked but the tach an coolant temperature gauges stayed in one spot while the car ran and reved a little for about 15 mins. Fuel read full, oil pressure read over 60 and voltage read about 13 amps.

Does this mean that the other cluster won't work either and why wouldn't these gauges work? I thought for sure the tach would have at least worked.

 

The gauge senders are different from idiot light switches. If your car didn't have a tach originally, it won't have the wire from the distributor to the gauge cluster.

 

Here’s how to test the fuel gage.

Remove the sender wire going to the gage.

Tape the removed sender wire so it can’t short.

Connect a 47Ω resistor to the gage where you removed the sender wire.

Connect the other of the resistor to ground.

Turn the key to RUN.

If the gage is good it will read about ½ way.

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Happy Racing!

 

The fuel guage works, It just reads way past full when it's full and above empty when empty for some reason.

Because I did have the idiot lights before would the rule about the wiring for the tach be the same for the coolant temp and oil pressure?

 

I read that I'd have to change out the oil pressure and water temp sending units I think. Anybody know how to do that or have a reference number to the parts?

 

Yes you will.

The new oil sender is Borg Warner S768.

The new water sender is Borg Warner WT357.

You’ll probably need an oil pressure sender socket to remove the ☼light-only☼ type of sender.

The location of the water temperature sensor varies depending on type of engine however it’s on the left.

The oil sensor sender is also located in the lower left side of the engine.

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Happy Racing!

 

I went to advance auto and they show those numbers as being incompatible with my car. The correct part numbers they showed had to be ordered for Borg Warner. They show the water temp sending unit as either being a pigtail connection for the dummy lights or a spade connection for the gauge connection. They told me these were not interchangable.

I went to Napa and they had the oil sending unit that I bought but no engine temp and they didn't show a pigtail connection. So now I'm confused on that.

 

I hooked up the oil unit from NAPA and its working great. Thanks for the help! I found my water temp sender and theres no wire connected to it though.

 

There should be a terminal on it for connecting to a crimp-on connector.

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Happy Racing!

 

It looks as if the wire was just cut off. It was a messy engine swap from the looks of it.

I used a mirror to see it so at least thats how it looke to me. Would that be why my idiot light almost always was showing the temp light?

I was thinking of going with an aftermarket gauge unless it's simple to bring a new wire to the gauge cluster.

 

Quote:

It looks as if the wire was just cut off. ………. Would that be why my idiot light almost always was showing the temp light?

Yes if the cut off wire was touching ground.
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I was thinking of going with an aftermarket gauge unless it's simple to bring a new wire to the gauge cluster.

You will have to replace the present temperature sender with a new one compatible with the new gage.

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Happy Racing!

 

Got a new coolant temp gauge to install. I couldn't find anything that might fit in the existing spot like I hoped though.

So what do I do about this tach problem? Do I have to run a wire from the gauge to the coil or just run an aftermarket tach? I dunno how i'd run an aftermarket gauge if I don't ahve the wire to splice into though.

 

Probably have to run a new wire.

 

five7, am I running to the cpu or do I have to remove the piece behind where the gauge cluster goes and wire into one of the plugs there?

 

The tach signal goes straight from the coil to the tach.

The ECM gets its RPM signal a different way.