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why not look for a double roller chain?

 

Because this is a stock engine, so I don't see the point in paying double to get a double roller chain. And I don't want to worry about having to grind the block as some have had to do. If I have it in the shop, this chain needs to go on with no mods. The single roller on the car now has lasted 170k miles so far. I really doubt I'll get another 170k miles on this engine before having to replace it.

So, I'm deciding on the GMPP I have posted above, or the $30 Cloyes at Autozone. I'm interested in the GMPP since it is supposed to be better and comes with new bolts. But I just want to make sure it will work fine in my 89 305, and not need any mods. As once I buy it, I can't return it to the dealer.

 

Yes, it will work with no problems that chain was made for a roller cam engine the like OEM one in your car.

 

I used that GMPP wenn I swapt the cam, it is a upgrade from the stock chain.
The GMPP 12371043 chain looks identical to the one on the LT1 and LT4 engines, except the LT4 chain is made of steel.
If you whant to go crazy with the chain you can use this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-3157/

Soacking in engine oil before install is the right way.

 

Thanks. I guess I'll get that chain then if they have to pull the timing chain cover off.

I may go ahead and have the oil pan gasket replaced at the same time. That way I can have them make sure the pickup screen is clean. As I had a problem of having low oil pressure years ago. I replace the oil pressure sensor above the oil filter. And that helped, but sometimes the needle will read 30, then drop down to 10, then later go back up to 30.

 

Thanks. I'll probably just stick with that $55 GMPP chain. It is a stock engine with 170k miles, so I don't need to spend a ton of money on a timing chain.

 

Good choice!

 

Yeah might was well drop the pan and change the gasket. Since you question the pumps oil pressure even though it seems fine to me just have it replaced. High volume pumps arent expensive and will help with the oil pressure. Just dont get sucked in by the people that think you will pump all your oil into the heads crowd. Sure its a band aid fix but this engine wont be around forever anyway might was well do what you can when you are there.

 

What about the Melling M-55? It is a stock style oil pump and is $20. I don't need anything fancy, and I don't plan on dumping a ton of extra money in this oil leak fix but $20 doesn't sound like too much extra. It is just a stock engine driving around town. No racing, no performance.

One thing is I've heard of people putting in a new oil pump that fails.

 

Always a chance any new piece will fail but its not very likely an oil pump will its a simple piece not much to it. The new 04+ Melling pumps M55 and M55hv were changed internally to help with hot idle oil pressure but I never noticed any real difference in a standard 55 pump and switched back to using HV. Its your engine so its your call about a 10 dollar difference in the standard pump and the M55HV pump, the HV pump you will see more consistant oil pressure readings. IMO this is one area where the extra 10 will benefit your engine life on a stock engine. Its not a performance upgrade I use these pumps on stock rebuilds all the time and am very happy with the results. Again your engine and wallet so its your call.

 

Because a double-row ANSI 35 chain (RC35-2) can transmit 38% less power at the same RPM than a single row RC50 chain. That means the double row chain will stretch and wear faster, is more prone to breaking from shock loading, such as the impulsive loads presented by a camshaft, and is more prone to skipping teeth under high loads.

The good things about double row chain is that it's cheaper and can operate at 11,000 RPM on a small diameter sprocket instead of 8,000 RPM.

 

Well I may look into the M55HV. Is there anything different about it when you install it compared to an M55?

I saw on the M55HV it said:

"must use intermediate shaft with steel guide,"

What is that?

And I'm guessing the 55-S1 Melling screen will work fine for what ever pump I go with?

 

That means the pump requires the steel shaft coupling guide sleeve instead of the plastic guide that the stock pump used. The plastic sleeve can allow the shafts to wander off center under the higher loads created by the higher volume pump. If the plastic coupling distorts and breaks (no likely with steel) you would have no oil flow and would be shopping for a crank.

 

Ok. So it sounds like that HV Melling pump would be an extra $20 then if I have to also buy a $10 steel shaft to go along with it. Its a good thing I check into this stuff as people tend to leave out extra information you need to know when they recommend something. I would have been pissed if I went with the HV pump and didn't put that steel shaft in cause I didn't know about it. Then when it broke and tore the engine up, I would have been better off just going with the regular pump.

The only way I'm gonna do all of this is if the local tech school does it all. As it is labor free. As I'd already be spending $200 just in materials. Not interested in spending an extra $400 or whatever the labor would be to do all of this just to fix a front oil leak.

 

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The chain needs to be soacked in engine oil, on the gears and crank snout you can put some oil with the finger.

One piece oil pan gasket is better and does not require the timing cover lower seal included in that pic.

 

I'm guessing you don't have to pull the pan off to replace the oil pan gasket? Just drop it down some?

I don't know if I'm gonna do the oil pump replacement as it looks like it is alot of work to remove the pan. I don't know if the tech school could do all of that.

 

On my engine the oil pan was never dropped, the lower curved seal for the Chain cover was used... hmmm....

 

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IMO, it really doesn't matter what gasket you go with because you still will need to use some silicone, so using both will give you a nice tight seal...

 

The expensive one is rubber and steel. The cheaper one is cork and rubber.

I bet the rubber and steel would probably be the better choice. Plus I would then get a Timken timing cover seal. I'm not sure how good that seal is in that cheap $10 gasket set.

 

Is there enough room to drop the oil pan some to replace the gasket without having to lift the engine or take alot of stuff apart?

I believe I read that for you to take the oil pan off to say replace the pump, you have to lift the engine and remove things. But I'm unsure if you have to do all of that just to replace the gasket?