Right now, the intake mani and valve covers are off. Motor is dirty as all get-out, deposits everywhere, but I've got that under control. Are there any parts I should look into replacing while I'm in the motor? (The motor is still in the car, so keep that in mind. I can pull it if I've got to, but I wasn't planning on it.)

 

Get a flash light and look into the water jackets. If you see rust or hard deposits, you may need to pull engine and pressure wash it to remove rust/junk. How many miles are on the engine? It's wise that if you got over 100,000 miles, then you might aswell do a full overhaul.

 

I disagree with all of what was just posted. I do SBCs for a living. I suggest you do the timing set and the valve seals. Also check the lifters and cam lobes, one at a time. Best to do it with some oil or lobe on hand.
If the engine is over 150,000 miles, then consider a full rebuild, and most definitely do new springs.

 

. I stand corrected. Good info Atilla the Fun.

 

Me disagreeing doesn't invalidate your beliefs. Doing it your way might be a few dollars more a few dollars sooner, and might pay off in some instances. This is a coke / pepsi type of thing.
In the early 70s, when everyone ran 4.10 gears, Holley carbs and no overdrives, 100,000 miles was pushing it. But by '82, the 2.73 gears were more than common, with or without overdrives, and most of these cars ran much leaner fuel curves for the first 50,000+ miles. That's why the life expectancy goes up by half.

 

. Knowledge is wonderful. I learned something. Atilla the Fun. How long have youve been into rebuilding engines?

 

Compression tests never hurt anyone. Leak down would be even better if you have access to a kit.

 

154,XXX miles showing on the body, but I don't know how many are on the motor. The car came with the 2.8L V6, and had a motor swap done later in life. The motor ran strong, with minimal vibration and no knocking, pinging, or other noises. Starts right up and keeps on going.