This has been a on going thing. I bought this car had no motor no tranny. I got a 350 block out of a old 74 pick up. I completely rebuilt it. There isnt a old part on the motor at all. I cleaned every little nook and cranny while assemblying the block. I went through and did every little detail there is. I made this a stroke motor too. I got it all together about 6 months ago and havent been able to really drive it because it overheats. New thermostat iradiator water pump stock dual elelctirc fans 2 1/2 exhaust timing is right the plastic air dam is there i did a head gasket check. Coolant seems to be flowing alright. The wierd thing is though when you drive it it overheats. it gets up to 210 then i shut it off but if you let it sit and idle the temp will come back down. i have been over everything i could think of if anyone could help plzz any suggestions at all.
thanks jeremy

 

oh yea i got a 670 holley on it too i have changed jets around as well nothing seems to work.

 

210 doesnt seem that bad, does the fan kick on, what temp thermostat do you have in it. When is the fan programmed to come on, i have an 89 Z24 that will run 210 all day, scared me a couple times till i found out the fan doesnt kick on till 225-235, which will then pull it back down to about 200

 

Get yourself an adjustable fan controller - I got a Flex-a-lite controller 4 years ago and I love it! Has provisions for dual fans, manual switches, A/C, and comes with good directions and everything you need.

 

You should worry if the temp reaches 240, especially if your hoses are dry rotted around the ends. It would be wise to use braided hoses. It'll maintain the integrity of the coolant hoses.

 

210?? you are worrying too much. but yeah like someone else said, make sure the fan kicks on

 

well i might be worrying a little but i have over 8000 invested in the motor alone so its hard not to. and i am running a 180 thermostat and fans kick on when it reaches 180. i had a 4 core metal radiator with brass tanks and i just bought a all aluminum radiator to see if that will help any...just waiting on it to get here...thanks for the replies any other suggestions would help.

 

What is your static compression, what octane fuel do you use, and how much timing are you throwing at her?

 

I forgot to mention that your timing should be set at 6* with the EST disconnected.

 

I f i were you I would just buy a manual switch fan. Thats what I did and it works great because when you see it get high you just put on the switch and it goes right down

 

Doing just that can cause you a blown gasket, warped heads, cracked heads, cracked block, or completely destroying your block. What if the guy is distracted somehow or has something on his mind that is bothering the heck out of him? The last thing that would be on my mind is constantly monitoring the temp gauge. A better option would be installing a relay. Use the existing ignition on wire that runs up to the battery, splice it and forget about the wire that the ECM uses to engage the relay. Now just wire up a 30 amp relay that will trip when the ignition is turned on. The fan will draw its current dirrectly from the battery. Hold on, let me make a drawing.

 

Here is what I did with my mod on the radiator fan relay

 

ok guys thanks for all the responses but i have finally figured it out. i had a 4 core steel radiator with brass tanks that i upgraded to a 4 core all aluminum radiator smaller water pump pully and high output water pump and it fixed it. thanks for the input!

 

what are the names and part #'s?