I'm trying to work on a few of the problems with the Firebird and could use some advise, And knowledgeable information on the problems ...


1: The right front caliper seems to be hanging causing the car to pull to the right (Didn't do it on the test drive) ... And today I moved the car to the shade to work on it, It didn't have any brakes (Thinking blown wheel cylinder but it still has fluid in the res.)

2: There is a loud thump in the *** end along with the feeling of being bumped in the rear by another car ... I am thinking that maybe the control arm bushings are worn out and or, The torgue arms mount ... I'll jack the car up and check that when I'm done with the brakes ... (I'm going to replace the universal joints while I'm at it) ...

3: The heater core is busted so I'm going to reroute the heater hose temporarily ... Does anyone know if there is an online manual where I can see what has to be done to replace the heater core? ...

4: The weather stripping doesn't seal like it should mostly because the car has been sitting for years ... The rubber looks good as far as no tears or rips, So I think it just needs some conditioning ... Does anyone know of a good weather stripping conditioner or would baby oil do just as good? ...

5: The windows won't roll down ... I can rock the switch and the drivers window will roll down about a 1/4" but you have to keep ****ing with the switch to get it to roll back up ... So I'm going to pull the console and door panels apart and check them to make sure the switches and motors are getting power (And if they are the proper amount of said power) ... So does anyone know where I can find info on taking the door panels off and what voltage everything needs? ...


Also, Would a Haynes manual show/tell me pretty much what I need to do? ...

 

come on guys, help
I do engines, so I don't have your answers, sorry.

 

as for the brakes, i would replace both frame to caliper lines. over time they will swell and cause a caliper to hang or not clamp.

check your torqe arm bushing and make sure the TQ arm is propery bolted down. another thing to check is the pan hard bar. this is the bar that goes from one side to the other. those bushings can go as well. this would be a good time to rplace it with an ADJ bar as thse cars for what ever reason tend to sit to one side over time.

 

1) Brakes seize after sitting for years then being put back into common use. Replace the calipers and hoses up front. Hose and wheel cyls in the back. Brakes arent something you skimp

2) Check the trans mount. If its busted it will allow the tailhousing to bash into the floorpan during acceleration. A severely slipping trans will feel similar, but the trans mount is more common and simple to check

3) No, and its a PITA. You need to loosen the dash from the firewall to get it out. Word to the wise, its easier to pull the entire interior HVAC box with the core, replace it outside of the car and reinstall as one big unit

4) Check out the restoration board, seal reconditioning isnt a miracle worker, you may just have to bite the bullet and replace them

5) Dying motors, also common. Advance auto has lifetime warranty replacements which will last another 2-10 years. You just wont have to pay for them again

Haynes manuals are pretty lacking, but do give some insight on whats in store for you. Most of these things arent very difficult given you have some mechanical experience. Expect all this to tie up a whole weekend and possibly longer if you run into unexpected snags

I would however, leave the window motor replacement to a glass shop. The regulators in the doors are like a giant pair of scissors. Improper handling can severe fingers. Do a search, one person posted a thread about exactly that on this forum. To me, its not worth the cost of an hour's labor for someone else to do it

 

Also for the cluncking, check the universals in the drive shaft, but i'm leaning towards the trans mount too.

 

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY overkill. i can replace a heatercore in 45min to an hr.

remove the hush panel and the other slim panel thats under the dash pouch and then you will see a square. there are 6 or so 7mm screws. the toughest "sorta"is the top screw. reach your arm around, its not hard and guide the extension to the screw and take it out. 4 more screws to remove the heatercore.

when going back in the hot/cold door will slightly hang on the heater core frame, just lightly pry the 2 apart and it'll slip in. a friend can guide the core lines to their holes when he sees one come into view. a lil slide with a small extension and it falls in.

most of my time is spent getting the hoses off the old heatercore as they are usually stuck to the core lines. sounds like alot but once you look at it and go thru each step its no issue.

 

Thanks for the info ya'll ... I'm going to tear into the car this week and get as much fixed as $ will allow ...

 

a new heater core should be no more than $20ish .