i know whats wrong the silver one u got is for multiport ingection and you have throttle body injection(tbi)

this is the part number u need EGR124D from oreilly
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...aro&vi=1035784

 

im tpi sorry not shure why i had that as my engine, i put the old one back on and it seem to help a little but the problem is still there

 

hmmmm. i wonder what the readings on the scanner show, when u say it helps a little what do u mean.... on mine for some reason when i put a msd distributor it takes longer to surge but when i put a reman that i just bought it goes back to the same

 

with the silver (wrong) egr it would surge till about 220 on my temp gauge.
with the brown egr it stops surging at about 110 and alot more power.
its at least drivable now but heated up at idle it will still stumble down every now and then so the prob is not fixed but getting better cant wait to get the aldl cable and see what it says

 

just noticed a min ago the heat shield r/h head is about to fall off. i think the knock sensor is right under that right? could this be giving false knock counts that would cause my erratic idling?

 

i really doubted, i have headers my knock sensor is clear of everything and the wire is new so don't think thats it also it would throw a code so ur ses light would come on

 

any improvements??

 

na... last 3 times i drove it when it heats up i loose oil pressure while idling...great!!! i'm about to sell this pos

 

hahahahahaha... a friend of mine is gonna come tomorrow we're gonna test every single sensor and wire out of the ECM to see if find something... did u hooked ur scanner to it after all???

 

no i got to fix the oil pressure first before i feel comfortable running it just cant decide if i want to rebuild engine, buy rebuilt engine, ls1 swap, or go the cheap way and just replace main, rod bearings and oil pump. hate to just replace the bearings and oil pump but im broke lol

 

hey man i got mine fixed.....DUDE YOU GOTTA CHECK THE TIMING but dont do it with the timing light do it by hand while the car is acting up, mine was like 20 degrees advanced.

 

no quite sure what u mean. did u put the engine top dead center by number 1 cylinder and then see what the balancer was saying or is there some other way i don't know about?

 

yes but dont go by ur balancer marks...
loosen the dist,start the car, let it warm up until starts surging, retard the dist lil by little and see if the surging goes away, thats what we did yesterday.

when i "set the timing" on mine i put it tdc, disconnected the est cable then proceeded to retard it as manufacture specs which was 6 degrees, my timing light and marks where saying that it was at 6 btdc but what i read on the shop manual is that after the car warms up the computer sets the timing by itself after it gets all the info from all the sensors, so for some reason my initial timing was correct but when the car reached normal temp the computer wasnt adjusting the timing.... also the knock sensor could have something to do with it, the manual says taht a faulty sensor can throw ur timing off 20 degrees and cause surging on the engine.... give it a try u got nothing to loose