Last night I decided to tackle the motor mounts in my '84 T/A. After swearing and sweating for three hours under the car, I had the driver's sound mount out and absolutely zero patience to continue.

I searched around the board today and found suggestions ranging from deal with it to cut the K member and weld it back up. Someone (dunno who) mentioned bending a cheapo 15mm wrench and using it, and that's exactly what I did.

I started out with a trip to Harbor Freight to buy these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piec...set-47067.html

Then, with a vice and a sledge hammer I modified the 15mm wrench. It worked AWESOME. Like I said, it took three hours to disassemble the driver's side, but tonight with the bent up wrench I got the driver's side reassembled and the passenger side totally done and back on the ground in about 1.5 hours.

The extra long handle was critical, it made the whole operation a snap. Highly recommended!

 

I got just the one wrench from Auto Zone and it only has one bend in it. Easy $5.99 solution. Proof that great minds think alike...

 

The bottom bolt can be easily accessed through the lower swing arm mount opening using a 15 mm Socket (held in one hand), while the mount's lower bolt head can be loosened with the other hand by reaching above with a 15mm wrench. Pretty easy. The two upper bolts are the real PITA. There is a fix, however. The nuts on those two bolts can both be accessed through the coil springs, using a 15mm Socket connected to two 3/8" drive extensions hooked together to give enough reach to position the Socket on the nuts by hand. Then attach a head-flexible 3/8" socket drive to the female extension within the coil springs to hold the nuts (with one hand), while reaching around with the other hand to loosen the top two mount bolds, preferably with a ratcheting closed end 15mm wrench. I did this successfully today on the passenger side (engine had already been removed, however). Mount came loose surprisingly easy after much advance angst, cursing, unsuccessful manual/on-line searches, and near despair. Tomorrow I'll be trying to use the same approach on the driver side. Load only knows how I'll reinstall the new mounts, but I like the idea advocated by others of installing the bolts upside down, making access to the nuts easier within the engine compartment. Shame on you GM, that could have been easily engineered by simply taping threads into the frame......planned obsolecense if you ask me.