What kind of oil do you third gen owners run in your engines? Additives also.

 

Dino Oil, goin on 10 years and 230,000 miles and like the engizer bunny, still going strong.

 

Castrol dino oil....Always have run Castrol & never have had an engine failure either.

 

Roller lifters: AMSOIL 10W-30 or 0W-30 full synthetic

Flat tappet lifter: AMSOIL 5W-30 Series 3000 diesel full synthetic

 

I GOT MY 91 GTA IN DEC OF 09, AND WENT STRAIT TO MOBIL 1. I HAVE BEEN USING IT FOR YEARS IN ALL VEHS, AND I SWEAR BY IT. MAKE YOUR RIDE LAST.

 

I thought about using synthetic in both of my 305's, but I am concerned about the seals leaking. Don't know if that's a myth or not. My 86 is still original w/98000 on the odometer. I get a bow tie salute, but that's all. It runs great. Will synthetic burn off like dino does?

 

Synthetic Oil in both of my third gens. Love it! You should try it. Never had any seals leak or any of the other myth's.

 

What about the little bit of oil that I burn off when I start up? You know, the bow tie salute.. Does synthetic burn off, or does it foul the plugs?

 

I don't have the Chevy salute and if I did I would replace the seals so that I didn't. I have never had foul plugs with synthetic oil. I like the increase in hp (not a lot but every bit helps) and the fact that I can (if I choose to) go longer between oil changes.

 

Its no myth, and there is only one way to find out, do the switch.
But does it happen that often, no.

Same with nitrogen in your tries, small molcues can leak out easier if you have worn parts.

 

If the leaky seal thing happens, will it keep leaking if I switch back to dino?

 

Mobil 1 15-50.

 

Yes....a leak is a leak and they need to be repaired.

 

I had been running Valvoline VR1 20w50 and recently switched to Valvoline Max Life 20w50 Full Synthetic Blend.
I switched because they have 5 Quarts of Max Life for $20 with Pure One Filter at Advance.

 

Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It has a high amount of zinc in it.

 

Does the valvoline racing oil have detergents in it?

 

Regarding leaking seals using Mobil 1, can't say. I've never had any problems, though. Don't know about dino, but the Mobil 1 is still in there long after the "3,000 mile" oil change recomendations. Good luck. RAH

 

Been running Mobil 1 fully synthetic in my GTA since I bought it 2 years ago. Only had 74K on it when I first put it in, now it has 84K on it and no leaks at all.

 

I have been using Castrol High Mileage 10w40. Great for cars with over 75,000 miles. I do not have any MODS on my 305 (H) code Camaro. It is a stock Z. This is the oil I like and it works for me, I am sure there is plenty of great motor oils out there, so I do not want this post to start running wild about what oil to use.

 

Well, I catch a lot of flack from my gear head friends for this but I add a bottle of STP to my oil, (Castrol GTX 10:30) cause it has zddp, and it's only 2.50 a bottle. From what I read, the zddp is good for not only flat tappet engines, but for all barring surfaces.

 

ZDDP is good for bearing surfaces, especially good for flat tappets. However, aside from flat tappet cams, which are of questionable durability to begin with, nothing prevents wear like a quality synthetic oil. Mobil 1 15-50 for my high test 355. One quick note though. Never use synthetic or even multi vis for break in. Use 30 or 40 weight for break in then switch to synthetic after 1000mi.

 

while this is true most people prefer the boo-boo-sticker method, if you see a leak and switch back it will take a while for the sludge to boild back up to plug that leaky seal, synthetics clean out the sludge and are finer so they can seep through the smallest spot, but as 86NiteRider said, FIX it lol dont just put a band aid on it thats how things get out of hand and you see an epic failure

 

I like the roller lifter thing myself, but the 86 still has a lot of life left in it, so I want to do what is best for it.

 

Which STP additive are you using?

 

The blue bottle stuff. I heard the red bottle has more zddp, but I can't find it anywhere.

 

What is zddp exactly?

 

Castrol GTX High Milage in my car, 80XXX KM's on the engine since the last rebuild...

 

I'm running coventional 10-30. Change it every 3k miles. Thought about using full synthetic but its too pricey! I think as long as I stay on top of the oil changes its should be fine.

 

Castrol high mileage 10W-30. Kept it the same oil as the previous owner to keep it pretty regular till new motor swap. Then pensoil is going in it.

 

Castrol 10w40 and a blue bottle of STP. I inherited the usage of STP from my dad, he said he's used it since he was a kid and swears by it. I actually used the STP as lube when I installed my cam/lifters/rockers when I first started it up the engine didn't make any sounds at all and is still going strong. I change the oil every 1500miles, I beat on the car and like the oil clean. And for less then 20$ at walmart I get a ACDelco filter, 5quart jug of Castrol and a thingy of STP. Can't beat it.

 

I was reading about the walmart supertech stuff, and it is apparently the same as pensoil.

 

well, I use Dino Pensoil streight weight 40w (flat tappet cam and on the juice) and change the oil only when I can't read the writing on the dip stick. I had the blue salute on start up and even when idling for a period of time. I changed the valve stem oil seals and installed the intake type seal on both the intake and exhaust. Done away with the unbrella type seals on the exhaust.

Auggie

 

I've been using mobil 1 oil since when I first got my car at 23k KM and after years of beating on the thing I took apart my engine for a head swap at 70k and was pleasantly surprised how tight and clean everything was.

 

Mobil 1.. Runs alot better, seems to 'smell' better as well? (less of a burning oil smell when racing)

 

How many miles do you have on the engines you use mobile 1?
My concern is leaky seals, and on my 86 I have a bow tie salute when I start it. I don't know if synthetic will burn off as well as dino.

 

There is no reason to keep going with the previous owners choice if you prefer pennzoil.

 

Your engines worn valve seals will cause startup oil burn no matter what oil you run. The best thing to do would be just replace them. They are inexpensive and fairly easy to install.

 

I believe I need to use an air compressor and a fitting to screw into the spark plug hole to keep the valves from falling in. Then replace the seals and the springs. But, would synthetic oil burn off like dino oil does w/ bad seal? or would it foul the plugs??

 

Synthetic oil will do exactly what conventional oil does in that situation.
You dont need compressed air. With the piston down feel in a bunch of clean 1/4" rope through the plug hole. Then rotate the engine forward by hand till it stops. The rope will keep the valves from dropping.
Why do you need to replace the springs?

 

Well, it is a stock 86 LG4, and unless the springs have been replace before, they may be getting soft. Also I thought of replacing the cam w/HO cam, and then a stronger spring may be necessary. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate ZDDP is the acronym for this. The oil manufacturers have been reducing the amount of this anti wear additive since 1988, cause it clogs converters when it burns. The federal gov. mandated that cats need to last 150,000 miles. So it's better to replace your engine, than your converter according to the federal govt.

 

New springs cant hurt. If you change the cam use something better than the ho 305 cam.
ZDDP removal is not as bad as it sounds. Roller cam engines dont need it so only old engines are effected. We can use additives or oils made to overcome the problem.

 

I ran Rotella 15w40 in my 305 and Castrol 10w30 in my 350. My 4th gen gets Carquest oil since I buy it in bulk and its the same as valvoline.

 

I usually run Shell Rotella T in various weights. No particular reason why.

 

Isn't rotella a diesel oil? That's all my dad uses in his powerchoke with some lucas oil stabalizer

 

Same here. I also put it in my 89 Vette.

 

You use Rotella? Any particular reason?

 

Shell Rotella T is used by a lot of people who still run flat tappet cams... Allegedly it contains a higher level of zinc than most motor oils. I know Comp Cams recommends using it in their installation instructions for flat tappet cams

 

ahhh that explains it

 

Only the CI-4+/SL rated oils still have the increased ZDDP (the SL means it can be used in gasoline engines). The CJ-4 oils for 2007-up diesels have had to reduce the ZDDP as well. If it says "ILSAC GF-4", it for sure has the reduced ZDDP and it would be best not to use such an oil in a flat tappet engine.