Hey guys, I've been chasing an electric gremlin for a couple days and it's kicking my ***. I've noticed that I'm getting some arching coming from my Blaster coil. It seems to run along the sides of it in between the red plastic of the coil and the metal itself. What could be causing this? I've also noticed from looking at my spark plugs that there is some arching coming from between the boot and the plugs themselves. I've been searching and I haven't been able to find a solution to this problem. Can anybody give me an idea?

 

It sounds like you have excessive resistance in the plugs and wires causing the electricity to try and find ground another way.

 

i just had the same problem with my truck. Mine was the plug wires I found mine the easy way I started it up at night with the hood open , and look for the lightning storm.

it seems like i cant get more than a year out of accel wires before they start arcing.

 

I`d start by swapping the stock coil back on and seeing what happens.Ive had trouble with 2 of the blaster coils.1 just died at a light.The other one was arcing out of the tower where the plug wire plugs in the top.It somehow cracked.
Only other time I hed something arcing out of my now stock coil was a plug wire had a burnt spot from being too close to a header primary and it was arcing.I swapped the wire and all was good.
I`d check all the wires really close and swap in another coil for starters.

 

Are you also running a MSD ignition box?
If you are your putting out more voltage than the vehicle can use and it is looking for another place to discharge and ground.
If your not running a MSD ignition box then I have to ask why your running a blaster coil.
These types of aftermarket coils are very short duration units meant to be used in conjunction with these boxes. Either way, these coils, boxes etc are meant for vehicles requiring such, mostly race cars and non HEI equipped cars.
Ive heard of this problem happening all the time using these with very low resistant wires and or weak systems.
As someone else suggested, go back to the stock unit and if you really want a better spark look at coils like a Moroso one that is designed for longer spark duration at a 30-34K voltage output. You do not need anymore fire power than that for the street.

 

If the wires are arcing, replace them. That's job one (including the coil wire).

Remember to put a little smear of dielectric grease inside each boot before you put it on (at the plugs, cap and the coil connections). Lots of people forget to do this, to their detriment. It provides additional insulation PLUS it keep out water, oil and other contaminants from sneaking under the plug boot and providing an additional ground path for the spark. Won't matter right away but when some miles roll under the tires it can make a significant difference.

Obviously, any plug wires or boots that are near a heat source lke the headers or exhaust manifolds should be routed to keep them from touching. Never ever have physical contact or they will be destroyed in only a few miles of driving. If it's a real tight squeeze, some heat shielding or insulation is called for.

If the coil is still arcing after you do this, it's toast and should be replaced.

 

Yes I am running a MSD 6A box, I didn't just buy this coil, I've had it for about 6 years now. I took it off and had it checked and everything checked out ok. I just bought a brand new set of wires yesterday (31299 universal cut to fit) but I think I might hold off until I get a spare coil to test everything out. How do I check the resistance in the wires? I know that there can be so much per foot. I'd to check out the ones I have now to see if that could be the issue. I hate to be a "parts changer" I want to find the problem and solve it.

 

Luckily I have ceramic coated headers, I know that that doesn't help a great deal I know that my wires are good. I have my wires run so that they don't even touch EACH OTHER. I mean I use the "zip tie" wire loom kit,lol. The only place they come in cotact with one another is up by the cap but even then it's mostly boot contact. No I haven't used die eletric grease on the boots ot connectors as I have heard conflicting stories on the fact. I'll check them out for any arching in the boots.

 

A cheap multi tester, then you can check resistance.
Set it to ohms, red wire on one end, black on the other.

Over 25+ years of trying to run MSD systems I gave up.
Some last weeks, some years, but none have lasted me like a stock HEI or better setup.
To me its not cost effective.
3 sparks@ 40,000 volts under 3000 rpm's needs a place to go since only 18,000 or so will be used.
Since I have been running stock type systems parts. Nothing low in resistance and coils that have a longer duration capabilities on a single fire. This is not for everyone, but I have never raced and needed something thats capable of 5000+ rpms for more than a second or two.

 

Well I did some checking and here are my results.....

I checked the ohm readings on each of my wires and did some calculations. The first are the original wires the second set is the new.

Wire 1. 24.75 inches 82.0 ohms 39.6 Ohms Per Foot
Wire 2. 27.00 inches 90.2 ohms 40.0 OPF
Wire 3. 27.25 inches 106.7 ohms 47.42 OPF
Wire 4. 22.50 inches 73.6 ohms 39.25 OPF
Wire 5. 22.25 inches 78.7 ohms 42.45 OPF
Wire 6. 21.00 inches 71.5 ohms 40.85 OPF
Wire 7. 20.00 inches 70.2 ohms 42.29 OPF
Wire 8. 19.50 inches 62.6 ohms 38.52 OPF
Coil wire 5.50 inches 16.9 ohms ?

All these are based on the MSD instructions saying that the Super Conductor 8.5 wire has between 40-50 ohms per foot.

NEW WIRES

Wire 1. 24.75 88.00 42.71 OPF
Wire 2. 27.00 95.10 42.27 OPF
Wire 3. 27.75 97.20 42.07 OPF
Wire 4. 22.50 80.40 42.88 OPF
Wire 5. 22.25 77.20 41.64 OPF
Wire 6. 20.75 72.80 42.08 OPF
Wire 7. 20.00 69.20 41.43 OPF
Wire 8. 20.00 70.20 42.03 OPF
Coil Wire 5.50 19.10 ?

I applied die electric grease on the sleeves of the boots on both ends of each wire.

I tested my picked up coil and it measures out at 815 ohms which is in acceptable range, the ignition module tested out good and the coil was tested good but is still arching along the sides. After putting on the new wires the car seems to be running slightly worse. I can attest that to needing a new coil. What do you guys think?

 

Have you looked at the plugs?

 

Do what Red said and look at the plugs.
Another thing, these stupid metal frame wrapped coils should be insulated from the block etc. Once I took one and put rubber washers on it that went into the holes, no more arcing because there was no ground connected to the frame of it.

 

so take the metal frame off and put on rubber washers? I'll have to try that

 

I opened the holes up that are used to mount it to the intake and put fender grommets on them. That way its isolated and I bet if you look there is like a 1/32 hole in the coil as it stands, why they do this???