Vortec Springs/Cam questions
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From: AZ
Car: 1978 Chevrolet impala
Engine: 350ci 300hp/356tq pace crate
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Yukon posi
Vortec Springs/Cam questions
So I'm deciding based on pricing whether or not to cam my L31 before I drop it in.
I have settled on http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-00409/ this cam by Crower. This motor will be sitting in front of the factory T5 so I'm not gunning for any radical numbers. Also, this should set within what is possible for a factory Vortec head.
I need a little information though. If I swap for this cam, am I going to NEED to replace the factory springs? I have no idea how flimsy they are. I was looking at the 918 beehives but they seem to be single springs. Dont I need doubles for a roller application?
Little insight would be much appreciated.
I have settled on http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRO-00409/ this cam by Crower. This motor will be sitting in front of the factory T5 so I'm not gunning for any radical numbers. Also, this should set within what is possible for a factory Vortec head.
I need a little information though. If I swap for this cam, am I going to NEED to replace the factory springs? I have no idea how flimsy they are. I was looking at the 918 beehives but they seem to be single springs. Dont I need doubles for a roller application?
Little insight would be much appreciated.
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From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
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Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
Probably worth replacing due to age alone
Plenty of singles out there that handle way more lift than your cam
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From: Far South Chicagoland
Car: 88 IROC-Z and 86 IROC-Z
Engine: TPI 305 and E85/Nitrous 383
Transmission: 700R4 and T56
Axle/Gears: 3:27 and TBA
Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
The stock vortec springs are extremely weak and should be replaced. If i remember correctly they are 170lbs compressed. The beehive springs are stock on LS series engines and are a great choice for a vortec upgrade. They provide more spring pressure, greater stability at a higher RPM, and more spring travel without coil bind.
The problem your going to run into though is the valve stem oil seal. The retainers might hit the seals with 470 lift. Some vortec heads have plenty of clearance and some dont, they vary quite a bit in castings. The simple fix for this is to switch to umbrella style seals while you have the valve springs off. That should give you enough clearance to run up to 550 if i remember correctly, but PLENTY of room for the cam you want to run.
With that being said have you considered the GM LT4 Hotcam? Its a deal at just over $200 and has some proven hp/tq numbers that look really good with vortec heads.
Hope this helps
The problem your going to run into though is the valve stem oil seal. The retainers might hit the seals with 470 lift. Some vortec heads have plenty of clearance and some dont, they vary quite a bit in castings. The simple fix for this is to switch to umbrella style seals while you have the valve springs off. That should give you enough clearance to run up to 550 if i remember correctly, but PLENTY of room for the cam you want to run.
With that being said have you considered the GM LT4 Hotcam? Its a deal at just over $200 and has some proven hp/tq numbers that look really good with vortec heads.
Hope this helps
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Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
Yes you ABSOULTELY MUST replace the stock springs. They are EVEN FLIMSIER than most stock springs. They are barely adequate to control the valves when used with the weenie stock Vortec cam; they are entirely inadequate for an aggressive modern performance cam. The valves will surely float.
That looks like a decent cam choice to me.
That looks like a decent cam choice to me.
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From: Wild Blue Yonder
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
Yes, change the springs!
Retainer to Guide clearance will be the biggest issue with that lift which may send you looking for a cam with < .460 lift. Your options are machine the guides down, run umbrella seals, use +.050 locks, or buy expensive springs & special retainers which will allow that clearance.
I'm trying to figure which go to with myself as I have a set of Vortecs and a cam on the way with .485 lift on the exhaust just putting me over the edge. I'll probably machine the guides down to be safe and run a stock diameter spring like the comp 981 or the recommended spring for the cam.
Retainer to Guide clearance will be the biggest issue with that lift which may send you looking for a cam with < .460 lift. Your options are machine the guides down, run umbrella seals, use +.050 locks, or buy expensive springs & special retainers which will allow that clearance.
I'm trying to figure which go to with myself as I have a set of Vortecs and a cam on the way with .485 lift on the exhaust just putting me over the edge. I'll probably machine the guides down to be safe and run a stock diameter spring like the comp 981 or the recommended spring for the cam.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,736
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From: Not in Kansas anymore
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 383 SP EFI/ 4150 TB
Transmission: T400
Axle/Gears: QP 9" 3.73
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 332
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From: AZ
Car: 1978 Chevrolet impala
Engine: 350ci 300hp/356tq pace crate
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Yukon posi
Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
That is an amazingly informative post! DOes that mean that I can use those LS6 springs on completely stock vortec heads? no machining neccessary?
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 116
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From: Far South Chicagoland
Car: 88 IROC-Z and 86 IROC-Z
Engine: TPI 305 and E85/Nitrous 383
Transmission: 700R4 and T56
Axle/Gears: 3:27 and TBA
Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
Yes, the LS6 springs fit vortec L31 heads with no machining. You do have to use the correct retainers and locks though.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 443
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From: Wild Blue Yonder
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: Vortec Springs/Cam questions
Wouldn't it be theoretically possible to have more clearance for lift by just using the LS6 springs and comp retainers alone WITHOUT using the umbrella seals? Could I use the stock valve seals with this setup and still have enough for ~.500 lift? Also, which locks would be a good option if you cannot use the stock ones?
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