Bad problem, need help please.
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
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Bad problem, need help please.
I have a 90 Camaro RS. A few months ago it started having a problem where the engine would stall if I took a left turn, the sharper the turn the more likely it will happen.
*It does not happen every single time just in these conditions:
Sharp "Left turns (only left), going slow, using the brakes at all during the turn, more likely to happen if going downhill then taking a left.
*What happens when it stalls is this:
The car will slowly come to a halt, engine light comes on, steering wheel locks, and the gas pedal does nothing, but the electric system stays on.
90% of the time if I turn the car off and start it again then itll start with no problem like it never happened. There was one time where it stalled and when I attempted to turn it on several times the engine would not turn.
_
My mechanic has not been able to find out why yet. Ive had these replaced while searching for the answer:
AIC Valve, Map sensor, Ignition coil, Alternator.
None have fixed it, the most recent time I took it the Map sensor and Ignition coil were replaced and the mechanic thought it was the fix.
_
Does anyone have any clues as to what it could be?
*It does not happen every single time just in these conditions:
Sharp "Left turns (only left), going slow, using the brakes at all during the turn, more likely to happen if going downhill then taking a left.
*What happens when it stalls is this:
The car will slowly come to a halt, engine light comes on, steering wheel locks, and the gas pedal does nothing, but the electric system stays on.
90% of the time if I turn the car off and start it again then itll start with no problem like it never happened. There was one time where it stalled and when I attempted to turn it on several times the engine would not turn.
_
My mechanic has not been able to find out why yet. Ive had these replaced while searching for the answer:
AIC Valve, Map sensor, Ignition coil, Alternator.
None have fixed it, the most recent time I took it the Map sensor and Ignition coil were replaced and the mechanic thought it was the fix.
_
Does anyone have any clues as to what it could be?
Thread Starter
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Actually the gas level dosnt seem to matter.
It happened twice today and the gas meter reads half full.
EDIT: If you meant does the gas level change durring the turn: Depending on which direction I turn and how sharp the gas meter will change drastically, like from being close to full to dropping close to empty.
It happened twice today and the gas meter reads half full.
EDIT: If you meant does the gas level change durring the turn: Depending on which direction I turn and how sharp the gas meter will change drastically, like from being close to full to dropping close to empty.
Last edited by LastKnownOne; Dec 27, 2010 at 06:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Possibly, Idk if its been checked.
From my replies it sounds like its a pump or gasline problem?
My mechanic said he did the fuel pump pressure test and it was alright, Im not sure if that makes a difference.
From my replies it sounds like its a pump or gasline problem?
My mechanic said he did the fuel pump pressure test and it was alright, Im not sure if that makes a difference.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
...
*What happens when it stalls is this:
The car will slowly come to a halt, engine light comes on, steering wheel locks, and the gas pedal does nothing, but the electric system stays on.
...
AIC Valve, Map sensor, Ignition coil, Alternator.
None have fixed it, the most recent time I took it the Map sensor and Ignition coil were replaced and the mechanic thought it was the fix.
_
Does anyone have any clues as to what it could be?
*What happens when it stalls is this:
The car will slowly come to a halt, engine light comes on, steering wheel locks, and the gas pedal does nothing, but the electric system stays on.
...
AIC Valve, Map sensor, Ignition coil, Alternator.
None have fixed it, the most recent time I took it the Map sensor and Ignition coil were replaced and the mechanic thought it was the fix.
_
Does anyone have any clues as to what it could be?
May also be an intermittent electrical connection.
The steering wheel will not lock up until you turn the key to
the off position and attempt to turn the wheel in either direction.
What I mean is, it shouldn't lock up when the engine stalls.
The IAC motor and MAP sensor didn't need to be replaced for this problem.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
It may be a fuel pressure/volume problem, connect a fuel pressure gauge an monitor will driving.
May also be an intermittent electrical connection.
The steering wheel will not lock up until you turn the key to
the off position and attempt to turn the wheel in either direction.
What I mean is, it shouldn't lock up when the engine stalls.
The IAC motor and MAP sensor didn't need to be replaced for this problem.
May also be an intermittent electrical connection.
The steering wheel will not lock up until you turn the key to
the off position and attempt to turn the wheel in either direction.
What I mean is, it shouldn't lock up when the engine stalls.
The IAC motor and MAP sensor didn't need to be replaced for this problem.
I called and told the mechanic that it was still stalling on me.
He asked if I could drive one of his mechanics around (with a scanner hooked up) and try and get it to stall (because he has never got it to die).
I understand what you mean about the steering wheel, but it really does lock up, this has happened several times.
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Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I've never been in your car when this happens, that I know of; but I'll tell you right now, the steering wheel IS NOT "locking" when this happens. If that were possible, there would be literally HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS of cars being recalled for it, RIGHT THIS INSTANT. Since that's not happening, you can bet that it's not "locking up".
The REAL problem is, your engine is ceasing to run, because its fuel supply is suddenly interrupted. All of those other things you describe are secondary to this ONE problem. Fix the ONE problem, and ALL those other SYMPTOMS will magically disappear. Just like, if you catch a cold, you don't try to cure the sneezing, coughing, runny nose, fever, and so forth, independent of the cold; you CURE THE COLD, and all the rest of that stuff goes away on its own. Same here.
What's going on is, you're losing power assist, because the engine has stopped running. The wheel suddenly becomes MUCH harder to turn, without the assist. It still WORKS, you just have to WORK HARDER to use it.
But, forget about that, it's merely a symptom of the greater problem, and not any kind of an issue on its own.
Your problem is in the gas tank.
Find a place that you can reliably make the car do it, every time you go there. For me, with one car I used to have that did EXACTLY THE SAME THING, there was one particular freeway ramp I could go on, that would make it flake, EVERY TIME. In that particular car, if the tank had less than about 6 gallons in it, it would do it if I went over about 60 mph on the ramp; if it had less than about 4 gallons, it would do it above about 35 mph; if it had less than 3 gallons, I needed to find another way to get where I was going period, or get some gas period.
Find such a place. FILL THE TANK FULL. Not, put some gas in it; not, put in $10 worth; not, put in a half tank; FILL IT UP. Then go back to your known good place and try to make it do it.
It won't. Guaranteed.
The reason is, there's a hole in your fuel system between the fuel pump and the fuel pickup; and when the gas sloshes over to the right side, it uncovers the hole, and the pump sucks air instead of fuel. Engines cannot run on air alone.
See my signature for helpful philosophical advice on troubleshooting.
The solution is, drop the gas tank, and find what's broken, rusted, corroded, loose, or whatever. It might not even need any parts at all, just some labor.
This is indicative of a further problem. Not to be a jerk or some kind of automotive snob, but it sounds to me like this "mechanic" is using you to pay for his kids' braces or his hunting habit or something. You need to quit using a "mechanic" and learn how to work on your car yourself; or, sell that car and get a new one with a warranty. Don't try to drive a 20-odd-year-old car and expect it to work perfect and like brand new while paying a "mechanic". Your "mechanic" has now wasted it sounds like about $750 of YOUR money lining his pockets at the expense of your ignorance and credulity, because he knows that (a) he actually has to break down and do work to fix it, specifically, drop the gas tank; and (b) if he actually FIXES IT, the cash spigot leading from your paycheck to his wallet will get turned off. He doesn't want either of those things to happen.
This "mechanic" needs to quit stealing your money and get off his lazy or dishonest butt and FIND THE PROBLEM before billing you for another dime. He owes you that after wasting SO MUCH of your money on his own laziness.
{edit} After you follow my instructions and discover that being FULL of gas makes it behave, wait until you HAVE USED ALL THE GAS before you "take it to the 'mechanic'", for 2 reasons: (1) it's AHELLUVALOT easier to drop an empty gas tank than a full one, and (2) the "mechanic" will find some kind of excuse as to why he has to remove the gas from the tank but can't give it back to you, thereby stealing yet another extra "hidden" $50 or whatever from you for this work he should ALREADY have done A LONG TIME AGO.
The REAL problem is, your engine is ceasing to run, because its fuel supply is suddenly interrupted. All of those other things you describe are secondary to this ONE problem. Fix the ONE problem, and ALL those other SYMPTOMS will magically disappear. Just like, if you catch a cold, you don't try to cure the sneezing, coughing, runny nose, fever, and so forth, independent of the cold; you CURE THE COLD, and all the rest of that stuff goes away on its own. Same here.
What's going on is, you're losing power assist, because the engine has stopped running. The wheel suddenly becomes MUCH harder to turn, without the assist. It still WORKS, you just have to WORK HARDER to use it.
But, forget about that, it's merely a symptom of the greater problem, and not any kind of an issue on its own.
Your problem is in the gas tank.
Find a place that you can reliably make the car do it, every time you go there. For me, with one car I used to have that did EXACTLY THE SAME THING, there was one particular freeway ramp I could go on, that would make it flake, EVERY TIME. In that particular car, if the tank had less than about 6 gallons in it, it would do it if I went over about 60 mph on the ramp; if it had less than about 4 gallons, it would do it above about 35 mph; if it had less than 3 gallons, I needed to find another way to get where I was going period, or get some gas period.
Find such a place. FILL THE TANK FULL. Not, put some gas in it; not, put in $10 worth; not, put in a half tank; FILL IT UP. Then go back to your known good place and try to make it do it.
It won't. Guaranteed.
The reason is, there's a hole in your fuel system between the fuel pump and the fuel pickup; and when the gas sloshes over to the right side, it uncovers the hole, and the pump sucks air instead of fuel. Engines cannot run on air alone.
See my signature for helpful philosophical advice on troubleshooting.
The solution is, drop the gas tank, and find what's broken, rusted, corroded, loose, or whatever. It might not even need any parts at all, just some labor.
My mechanic has not been able to find out why yet. Ive had these replaced
I called and told the mechanic
This "mechanic" needs to quit stealing your money and get off his lazy or dishonest butt and FIND THE PROBLEM before billing you for another dime. He owes you that after wasting SO MUCH of your money on his own laziness.
{edit} After you follow my instructions and discover that being FULL of gas makes it behave, wait until you HAVE USED ALL THE GAS before you "take it to the 'mechanic'", for 2 reasons: (1) it's AHELLUVALOT easier to drop an empty gas tank than a full one, and (2) the "mechanic" will find some kind of excuse as to why he has to remove the gas from the tank but can't give it back to you, thereby stealing yet another extra "hidden" $50 or whatever from you for this work he should ALREADY have done A LONG TIME AGO.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Dec 28, 2010 at 09:09 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I've never been in your car when this happens, that I know of; but I'll tell you right now, the steering wheel IS NOT "locking" when this happens. If that were possible, there would be literally HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS of cars being recalled for it, RIGHT THIS INSTANT. Since that's not happening, you can bet that it's not "locking up".
The REAL problem is, your engine is ceasing to run, because its fuel supply is suddenly interrupted. All of those other things you describe are secondary to this ONE problem. Fix the ONE problem, and ALL those other SYMPTOMS will magically disappear. Just like, if you catch a cold, you don't try to cure the sneezing, coughing, runny nose, fever, and so forth, independent of the cold; you CURE THE COLD, and all the rest of that stuff goes away on its own. Same here.
What's going on is, you're losing power assist, because the engine has stopped running. The wheel suddenly becomes MUCH harder to turn, without the assist. It still WORKS, you just have to WORK HARDER to use it.
But, forget about that, it's merely a symptom of the greater problem, and not any kind of an issue on its own.
Your problem is in the gas tank.
Find a place that you can reliably make the car do it, every time you go there. For me, with one car I used to have that did EXACTLY THE SAME THING, there was one particular freeway ramp I could go on, that would make it flake, EVERY TIME. In that particular car, if the tank had less than about 6 gallons in it, it would do it if I went over about 60 mph on the ramp; if it had less than about 4 gallons, it would do it above about 35 mph; if it had less than 3 gallons, I needed to find another way to get where I was going period, or get some gas period.
Find such a place. FILL THE TANK FULL. Not, put some gas in it; not, put in $10 worth; not, put in a half tank; FILL IT UP. Then go back to your known good place and try to make it do it.
It won't. Guaranteed.
The reason is, there's a hole in your fuel system between the fuel pump and the fuel pickup; and when the gas sloshes over to the right side, it uncovers the hole, and the pump sucks air instead of fuel. Engines cannot run on air alone.
See my signature for helpful philosophical advice on troubleshooting.
The solution is, drop the gas tank, and find what's broken, rusted, corroded, loose, or whatever. It might not even need any parts at all, just some labor.
This is indicative of a further problem. Not to be a jerk or some kind of automotive snob, but it sounds to me like this "mechanic" is using you to pay for his kids' braces or his hunting habit or something. You need to quit using a "mechanic" and learn how to work on your car yourself; or, sell that car and get a new one with a warranty. Don't try to drive a 20-odd-year-old car and expect it to work perfect and like brand new while paying a "mechanic". Your "mechanic" has now wasted it sounds like about $750 of YOUR money lining his pockets at the expense of your ignorance and credulity, because he knows that (a) he actually has to break down and do work to fix it, specifically, drop the gas tank; and (b) if he actually FIXES IT, the cash spigot leading from your paycheck to his wallet will get turned off. He doesn't want either of those things to happen.
This "mechanic" needs to quit stealing your money and get off his lazy or dishonest butt and FIND THE PROBLEM before billing you for another dime. He owes you that after wasting SO MUCH of your money on his own laziness.
{edit} After you follow my instructions and discover that being FULL of gas makes it behave, wait until you HAVE USED ALL THE GAS before you "take it to the 'mechanic'", for 2 reasons: (1) it's AHELLUVALOT easier to drop an empty gas tank than a full one, and (2) the "mechanic" will find some kind of excuse as to why he has to remove the gas from the tank but can't give it back to you, thereby stealing yet another extra "hidden" $50 or whatever from you for this work he should ALREADY have done A LONG TIME AGO.
The REAL problem is, your engine is ceasing to run, because its fuel supply is suddenly interrupted. All of those other things you describe are secondary to this ONE problem. Fix the ONE problem, and ALL those other SYMPTOMS will magically disappear. Just like, if you catch a cold, you don't try to cure the sneezing, coughing, runny nose, fever, and so forth, independent of the cold; you CURE THE COLD, and all the rest of that stuff goes away on its own. Same here.
What's going on is, you're losing power assist, because the engine has stopped running. The wheel suddenly becomes MUCH harder to turn, without the assist. It still WORKS, you just have to WORK HARDER to use it.
But, forget about that, it's merely a symptom of the greater problem, and not any kind of an issue on its own.
Your problem is in the gas tank.
Find a place that you can reliably make the car do it, every time you go there. For me, with one car I used to have that did EXACTLY THE SAME THING, there was one particular freeway ramp I could go on, that would make it flake, EVERY TIME. In that particular car, if the tank had less than about 6 gallons in it, it would do it if I went over about 60 mph on the ramp; if it had less than about 4 gallons, it would do it above about 35 mph; if it had less than 3 gallons, I needed to find another way to get where I was going period, or get some gas period.
Find such a place. FILL THE TANK FULL. Not, put some gas in it; not, put in $10 worth; not, put in a half tank; FILL IT UP. Then go back to your known good place and try to make it do it.
It won't. Guaranteed.
The reason is, there's a hole in your fuel system between the fuel pump and the fuel pickup; and when the gas sloshes over to the right side, it uncovers the hole, and the pump sucks air instead of fuel. Engines cannot run on air alone.
See my signature for helpful philosophical advice on troubleshooting.
The solution is, drop the gas tank, and find what's broken, rusted, corroded, loose, or whatever. It might not even need any parts at all, just some labor.
This is indicative of a further problem. Not to be a jerk or some kind of automotive snob, but it sounds to me like this "mechanic" is using you to pay for his kids' braces or his hunting habit or something. You need to quit using a "mechanic" and learn how to work on your car yourself; or, sell that car and get a new one with a warranty. Don't try to drive a 20-odd-year-old car and expect it to work perfect and like brand new while paying a "mechanic". Your "mechanic" has now wasted it sounds like about $750 of YOUR money lining his pockets at the expense of your ignorance and credulity, because he knows that (a) he actually has to break down and do work to fix it, specifically, drop the gas tank; and (b) if he actually FIXES IT, the cash spigot leading from your paycheck to his wallet will get turned off. He doesn't want either of those things to happen.
This "mechanic" needs to quit stealing your money and get off his lazy or dishonest butt and FIND THE PROBLEM before billing you for another dime. He owes you that after wasting SO MUCH of your money on his own laziness.
{edit} After you follow my instructions and discover that being FULL of gas makes it behave, wait until you HAVE USED ALL THE GAS before you "take it to the 'mechanic'", for 2 reasons: (1) it's AHELLUVALOT easier to drop an empty gas tank than a full one, and (2) the "mechanic" will find some kind of excuse as to why he has to remove the gas from the tank but can't give it back to you, thereby stealing yet another extra "hidden" $50 or whatever from you for this work he should ALREADY have done A LONG TIME AGO.
If you search up "Car stalls when turning" alot of results come up and it happens for alot of reasons and happens to many cars. I dont think Ive found a result yet that was actually the gas tank.
And my mechanic has done alot free for me, the dude is like 25.
He has great personal reviews on his stores website.
I think you have trust issues honestly.
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Car: 1990 IROC-Z 1LE
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Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I don't go to my mechanic and say "my car isn't running right, i think its the (Whatever)". He will replace the (whatever) because you said it was bad. You are on the hook to pay because you diagnosed the problem, not him.
If i know whats wrong 100% sure then I tell him to replace it, if i am not 100% sure i say "my car isn't running right, get me an estimate on what it will take to fix it". Once you get the quote keep a copy. This way if your car isn't fixed you aren't on the hook for a part you didn't need. You can then decide to keep the part, or make him change it back out and try again at his/her expense.
Make him pay for guesses, not you.
If i know whats wrong 100% sure then I tell him to replace it, if i am not 100% sure i say "my car isn't running right, get me an estimate on what it will take to fix it". Once you get the quote keep a copy. This way if your car isn't fixed you aren't on the hook for a part you didn't need. You can then decide to keep the part, or make him change it back out and try again at his/her expense.
Make him pay for guesses, not you.
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
When the pump relay is working your pressure will be fine. But if it has intermitten issues it was also cut off when it feels like it. I had similar problems last year had a fuel pump relay that worked when it wanted to at my inconvenience & frustration. Relay cost $20.00 and is easily accessible on the firewall, drivers side, under the hood. hope this helps! Oh ya, replacing the relay is alot cheaper and easier way to trouble shoot than replacing the fuel pump which is a lot of cash and a lot more work! That would suck to replace the pump when that may not be the issue. Good luck!
Last edited by bitchin_buick; Dec 28, 2010 at 02:21 PM.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I think you have trust issues honestly.
Bingo!!!!
I trust no one, nowhere, at ANY TIME, about ANY THING, that I cannot verify INDEPENDENTLY of that person, when money is involved.
In my many decades of life, the behavior of humans has forced me to that conclusion.
I'm guessing that since you think being 25 is a sign maturity or something, you're even younger than that. Basically just starting out in life. Ah, the idealism of youth!!! Too bad real life gets in the way of that as you go along and accumulate experience, and then by the time you grow up (age 50 or so is about the start of that) you become deeply jaded by the REALITY of what you have seen for all those years, and realize that it was just wishful thinking. You'll see, if you make it that far.
Meanwhile, consider the message contained in my signature, carefully and thoroughly. You'll see there aren't many other explanations that fit all the facts. You'll also see, by using the thought process contained in that quote, that this "mechanic"'s behavior demostrates a lack of trustworthiness, as a professional. (if it's just a friend helping you out, that's one thing; if it's a supposedly pro garage or shop, that's ENTIRELY a different matter) If it swims like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it's .... what? You can't ignore the evidence in front of your face.
Fill your tank. Prove me wrong. I dare you.
Come back and let us know how it worked out, and then, what you find when you drop the tank. 
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Try it with the tank full like everyone says. See if the behavior changes.
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
All though very winded in your full post. Very good point.....
Last edited by bitchin_buick; Dec 28, 2010 at 06:42 PM.
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
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Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Ok new symptoms, kinda.
I drove around the mech this morning, didnt die once.
I drove it around alittle. I noticed as long as the gas is pressed down its good.
I turned into my court, let off the gas peddle and turned the steering wheel left almost to the stopping point, the engine died. Everything was the same, wheel hard to turn, electric system still on, just the engine died.
Except this time I turned the car off, turned the auxiliary on and there was no noise at all. If Im correct: normally when you turn the car to auxiliary the pump turns on and makes a humming noise. I turned the key several times and listened, no noise at all. Also the car keeps turning but wont start, luckily it stalled infront of my house.
So with this new info is it looking like the pump needs to be replaced?
EDIT: I left alone for about 10 minutes, then came back out to check it. I turned auxiliary on again, all lights work, inside and out, AC and heat worked. The pump still didn't turn on but I tried anyway and the car actually started but the rpm was very low (the car was struggling a little to stay on, like the rpm needle kept dipping but the car would rev up to stay on and it continuously did that (also the voltage meter was fluctuating during this too)) but I pressed the gas, went about 10 feet then put it in park and the gauges were fine. I turned it off then turned auxiliary on a few times a listened for the hum of the pump and that was working again (after the car was able to start.)
Does this sound like the electro pump is bad?
I drove around the mech this morning, didnt die once.
I drove it around alittle. I noticed as long as the gas is pressed down its good.
I turned into my court, let off the gas peddle and turned the steering wheel left almost to the stopping point, the engine died. Everything was the same, wheel hard to turn, electric system still on, just the engine died.
Except this time I turned the car off, turned the auxiliary on and there was no noise at all. If Im correct: normally when you turn the car to auxiliary the pump turns on and makes a humming noise. I turned the key several times and listened, no noise at all. Also the car keeps turning but wont start, luckily it stalled infront of my house.
So with this new info is it looking like the pump needs to be replaced?
EDIT: I left alone for about 10 minutes, then came back out to check it. I turned auxiliary on again, all lights work, inside and out, AC and heat worked. The pump still didn't turn on but I tried anyway and the car actually started but the rpm was very low (the car was struggling a little to stay on, like the rpm needle kept dipping but the car would rev up to stay on and it continuously did that (also the voltage meter was fluctuating during this too)) but I pressed the gas, went about 10 feet then put it in park and the gauges were fine. I turned it off then turned auxiliary on a few times a listened for the hum of the pump and that was working again (after the car was able to start.)
Does this sound like the electro pump is bad?
Last edited by LastKnownOne; Dec 29, 2010 at 09:59 PM.
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
The fuel pump is primed by the ECM, The ECM is not powered in the accessory position.
Depending on the key on cycling time (time between on, off, on) you won't always hear the pump prime.
Depending on the key on cycling time (time between on, off, on) you won't always hear the pump prime.
Last edited by rgarcia63; Dec 29, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
No... There are 4 positions to the ignition switch: Off, Accessory, On, and Start. The fuel pump will prime in "On", not Accessory.
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
EDIT: Ok, The position where you turn the key clockwise, right before the position that makes it turn on. The position that makes all the guages turn on but does not start the car, that position.
Stereo was at 0 volume and even turned completely off.
@Rgarcia Im Aware hat you cant turn it on and off rapidly for it to make the noise but I gave it plenty of time and it didnt do it once. After the car started I could turn it off and give it 5 seconds or so and everytime I turned it to the on position the pump would make the noise.
Stereo was at 0 volume and even turned completely off.
@Rgarcia Im Aware hat you cant turn it on and off rapidly for it to make the noise but I gave it plenty of time and it didnt do it once. After the car started I could turn it off and give it 5 seconds or so and everytime I turned it to the on position the pump would make the noise.
Last edited by LastKnownOne; Dec 29, 2010 at 10:38 PM.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
The stereo.
If the fuel pump primes, you're in On, not Accessory.
If the fuel pump primes, you're in On, not Accessory.
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 482
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Car: 1990 IROC-Z 1LE
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G92 3.23
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Check pressure at the following points:
Car off, key turned to off
Car off, key turned to on (instantaneously)
Car off, key turned to on (after 2 minutes)
Car on, key turned to on (idle)
Car on, key turned to on (driving around (if possible))
Car off, key turned to on (after you have driven it around)
These gauges aren't too expensive, and are really nice to have around. If you can't afford one ask around to borrow one. Guessing can get you lucky, but diagnostics are more reliable. Good luck to you.
Car off, key turned to off
Car off, key turned to on (instantaneously)
Car off, key turned to on (after 2 minutes)
Car on, key turned to on (idle)
Car on, key turned to on (driving around (if possible))
Car off, key turned to on (after you have driven it around)
These gauges aren't too expensive, and are really nice to have around. If you can't afford one ask around to borrow one. Guessing can get you lucky, but diagnostics are more reliable. Good luck to you.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Thanks Krik.
The position where you turn the key clockwise, right before the position that makes it turns the engine on. The position that makes all the guages turn on but does not start the car, that position.
Stereo was at 0 volume and even turned completely off.
@Rgarcia Im Aware that you cant turn it on and off rapidly for it to make the noise but I gave it plenty of time and it didnt do it once. After the car started I could turn it off and give it 5 seconds or so and everytime I turned it to the on position the pump would make the noise.
The position where you turn the key clockwise, right before the position that makes it turns the engine on. The position that makes all the guages turn on but does not start the car, that position.
Stereo was at 0 volume and even turned completely off.
@Rgarcia Im Aware that you cant turn it on and off rapidly for it to make the noise but I gave it plenty of time and it didnt do it once. After the car started I could turn it off and give it 5 seconds or so and everytime I turned it to the on position the pump would make the noise.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
If the pump isn't priming, put a test light between pin G in the ALDL and ground and try to make it prime or try to start the car again. What does the light do?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Well after I let it set for about 10 or 15 minutes I got it to start, it started weak like I said but after I pressed the gas it was good. The left turns are apparently causing the pump to die. Does this sound right?
My bad if I didnt get your point. I dont even have a test light, Im not prepared for any major car problem, thats why it goes to the shop if its broke, its just this time like I said earlier they cant get it to die therefore theyre not sure what to do.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
A test light costs all of about $3, and is infinitely useful for diagnosing electrical problems. Get one as soon as you can, keep it in the car until you can get it to die again.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Thanks Krik.
The position where you turn the key clockwise, right before the position that makes it turns the engine on. The position that makes all the guages turn on but does not start the car, that position.
Stereo was at 0 volume and even turned completely off.
@Rgarcia Im Aware that you cant turn it on and off rapidly for it to make the noise but I gave it plenty of time and it didnt do it once. After the car started I could turn it off and give it 5 seconds or so and everytime I turned it to the on position the pump would make the noise.
The position where you turn the key clockwise, right before the position that makes it turns the engine on. The position that makes all the guages turn on but does not start the car, that position.
Stereo was at 0 volume and even turned completely off.
@Rgarcia Im Aware that you cant turn it on and off rapidly for it to make the noise but I gave it plenty of time and it didnt do it once. After the car started I could turn it off and give it 5 seconds or so and everytime I turned it to the on position the pump would make the noise.
A Key cycle is basically what Krik's instructions for pressure testing key sequence in line 2 & 3:
"Car off, key turned to on (instantaneously)
Car off, key turned to on (after 2 minutes)"
My car will not "always prime (hum)" when key cycling after 5 seconds which is why I didn't specific a time between a cycle.
I suggested monitoring fuel pressure, you said you would tell your Mech, but you didn't post a reply to that so I suppose you forgot, or he didn't feel it was worth his time.
Now Krik has also suggested it.
Diagnosis is a process of elimination, possible loss of pressure needs to be eliminated.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Yes; clockwise is On/Start, counterclockwise is Accessories.
A Key cycle is basically what Krik's instructions for pressure testing key sequence in line 2 & 3:
"Car off, key turned to on (instantaneously)
Car off, key turned to on (after 2 minutes)"
My car will not "always prime (hum)" when key cycling after 5 seconds which is why I didn't specific a time between a cycle.
I suggested monitoring fuel pressure, you said you would tell your Mech, but you didn't post a reply to that so I suppose you forgot, or he didn't feel it was worth his time.
Now Krik has also suggested it.
Diagnosis is a process of elimination, possible loss of pressure needs to be eliminated.
A Key cycle is basically what Krik's instructions for pressure testing key sequence in line 2 & 3:
"Car off, key turned to on (instantaneously)
Car off, key turned to on (after 2 minutes)"
My car will not "always prime (hum)" when key cycling after 5 seconds which is why I didn't specific a time between a cycle.
I suggested monitoring fuel pressure, you said you would tell your Mech, but you didn't post a reply to that so I suppose you forgot, or he didn't feel it was worth his time.
Now Krik has also suggested it.
Diagnosis is a process of elimination, possible loss of pressure needs to be eliminated.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Question:
Does your power steering pump have a high pressure switch?
Last edited by rgarcia63; Dec 30, 2010 at 01:15 AM. Reason: Question
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 9
From: Kitchener, ON
Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Checking fuel pressure while this is happening is a good start.
But I suspect an electrical problem. Check the battery mount and connections. A wobbly battery or connection will show up during a g force maneuver and then correct itself when the car comes to a standstill. Push some wires around while the car is running and see what happens.
Other loose power or ground wires in the fuel or ignition system could also cause this.
But I suspect an electrical problem. Check the battery mount and connections. A wobbly battery or connection will show up during a g force maneuver and then correct itself when the car comes to a standstill. Push some wires around while the car is running and see what happens.
Other loose power or ground wires in the fuel or ignition system could also cause this.
Member
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 482
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From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Car: 1990 IROC-Z 1LE
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G92 3.23
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I am not making fun of you, or trying to belittle you here. We here are trying to help you. A basic set of diagnostic set of tools will save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars as well as getting your car back on the road quicker. Ultimately its your money and if you wish to keep giving it away to mechanics it is your right. If you won't (or maybe just can't) do some basic troubleshooting you may consider trying a second mechanic. Sometimes basic problems can be overlooked.
That said, if you want guesses as to what could be your problem without clues i would look at replacing your muffler bearings, and it wouldn't hurt to refill your horn (I suggest "Beep!" brand, but whatever is on sale should work).
That said, if you want guesses as to what could be your problem without clues i would look at replacing your muffler bearings, and it wouldn't hurt to refill your horn (I suggest "Beep!" brand, but whatever is on sale should work).
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Fox Lake, Illinois
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 lt. slip
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Geez......replace the fuel pump already. A jack, jack stands, can of penetrating oil, a new fuel pump, and some hand tools is all one needs to do this job the correct way. It's not as hard as it looks!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I am just going to replace the pump and such.
The battery is completely fine, the cables are on tight, like I said, every single electric accessory works except the pump after it happens: Ac, Lights, Radio, dome light, gauges. If it is a electric problem then itll be run acrossed when the pump is replaced, hopefully.
The battery is completely fine, the cables are on tight, like I said, every single electric accessory works except the pump after it happens: Ac, Lights, Radio, dome light, gauges. If it is a electric problem then itll be run acrossed when the pump is replaced, hopefully.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Has your Mech given you an estimate to replace (labor) the pump?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I really suggest checking the fuel pump relay. It just plugs in like a big fuse - No tools necessary! You don't even have to crawl under the car. Like I mentioned in an earlier post I had similar problems and IT WAS ONLY THE RELAY! $20.00 Vs. 490.00 >>> I'm NOT saying for certain it's the relay as it was for me, but It's a $20.00 gamble that could save you $490.00.................. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I really suggest checking the fuel pump relay. It just plugs in like a big fuse - No tools necessary! You don't even have to crawl under the car. Like I mentioned in an earlier post I had similar problems and IT WAS ONLY THE RELAY! $20.00 Vs. 490.00 >>> I'm NOT saying for certain it's the relay as it was for me, but It's a $20.00 gamble that could save you $490.00.................. Good luck!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 615
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Sounds like you're intent on diagnosis by replacement. Let us know what you find, and how much money it costs in the end.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
A re-manufactured pump would cost about $50+sock filter.
What's the coupon he so graciously gave you worth?
In my area I can get a Bosch fuel pump kit for about $93+tax. If you got it for the same price, and given that some here say they've done it in 2 hours so, a shop could do it in half the time.
estimate minus parts=labor=$400/hr, man I'm in the wrong business.
Just for kicks tell your Mech you'll supply the fuel pump kit and see he's reaction. I would bet his price for the pump & parts will be half, or more of the estimate.
Please, please ask him I really would like to hear the drama he's going to spout.
For a couple of 6 packs and some BBQ I know I can get help from a couple of buddies and do a better job and to hell with how long it takes.
What's the coupon he so graciously gave you worth?
In my area I can get a Bosch fuel pump kit for about $93+tax. If you got it for the same price, and given that some here say they've done it in 2 hours so, a shop could do it in half the time.
estimate minus parts=labor=$400/hr, man I'm in the wrong business.
Just for kicks tell your Mech you'll supply the fuel pump kit and see he's reaction. I would bet his price for the pump & parts will be half, or more of the estimate.
Please, please ask him I really would like to hear the drama he's going to spout.
For a couple of 6 packs and some BBQ I know I can get help from a couple of buddies and do a better job and to hell with how long it takes.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: procharged stock 350 tpi
Transmission: stock 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: stock 3.27
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
2 Things I would do before spending another cent :
1) check all wiring that I could possibly get at myself --looking for loose or shorting wires under the hood, or under the car, or under the dash.
2) fill up gas tank as suggested earlier watch for any leaks anywhere
Good Luck
1) check all wiring that I could possibly get at myself --looking for loose or shorting wires under the hood, or under the car, or under the dash.
2) fill up gas tank as suggested earlier watch for any leaks anywhere
Good Luck
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
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Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I dont think it would have mattered if I get the parts or not, I would just get charged labor.
I know most of you are very car savvy and have all the equipment to fix just about any problem but I dont nor do I know anyone that does, so because of that my only choice is a car shop.
Also all the basic possible problems have been checked, I know its the pump its just I dont know exactly whats causing it to die. But I will update after a few days.
I know most of you are very car savvy and have all the equipment to fix just about any problem but I dont nor do I know anyone that does, so because of that my only choice is a car shop.
Also all the basic possible problems have been checked, I know its the pump its just I dont know exactly whats causing it to die. But I will update after a few days.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 2
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
I dont think it would have mattered if I get the parts or not, I would just get charged labor.
I know most of you are very car savvy and have all the equipment to fix just about any problem but I dont nor do I know anyone that does, so because of that my only choice is a car shop.
Also all the basic possible problems have been checked, I know its the pump its just I dont know exactly whats causing it to die. But I will update after a few days.
I know most of you are very car savvy and have all the equipment to fix just about any problem but I dont nor do I know anyone that does, so because of that my only choice is a car shop.
Also all the basic possible problems have been checked, I know its the pump its just I dont know exactly whats causing it to die. But I will update after a few days.
You have a 21 year old vehicle so expect that unless you plan a restoration, it's going to continue to need attention. It's nothing more than undoing some nuts and bolts, taking a part off, replacing a part and putting back nuts and bolts. When you look at it in that fashion it's not as intimidating.
Oh, there are some of us who rectify what should have been done at the factory and re-engineer the vehicle so it has an access hatch to the fuel pump. Some of us who own 3rd and 4th gens don't drop the tank.
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 6
From: Wyoming
Car: 1995 Formula
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: Built 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, Eaton posi, 3.73's
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
People generally suck, but there are some nice folks out there still. I've met many of the nicer people on here, too.
Bingo!!!!
I trust no one, nowhere, at ANY TIME, about ANY THING, that I cannot verify INDEPENDENTLY of that person, when money is involved.
In my many decades of life, the behavior of humans has forced me to that conclusion.
I'm guessing that since you think being 25 is a sign maturity or something, you're even younger than that. Basically just starting out in life. Ah, the idealism of youth!!! Too bad real life gets in the way of that as you go along and accumulate experience, and then by the time you grow up (age 50 or so is about the start of that) you become deeply jaded by the REALITY of what you have seen for all those years, and realize that it was just wishful thinking. You'll see, if you make it that far.
Meanwhile, consider the message contained in my signature, carefully and thoroughly. You'll see there aren't many other explanations that fit all the facts. You'll also see, by using the thought process contained in that quote, that this "mechanic"'s behavior demostrates a lack of trustworthiness, as a professional. (if it's just a friend helping you out, that's one thing; if it's a supposedly pro garage or shop, that's ENTIRELY a different matter) If it swims like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it's .... what? You can't ignore the evidence in front of your face.
Fill your tank. Prove me wrong. I dare you. Come back and let us know how it worked out, and then, what you find when you drop the tank.
Bingo!!!!
I trust no one, nowhere, at ANY TIME, about ANY THING, that I cannot verify INDEPENDENTLY of that person, when money is involved.
In my many decades of life, the behavior of humans has forced me to that conclusion.
I'm guessing that since you think being 25 is a sign maturity or something, you're even younger than that. Basically just starting out in life. Ah, the idealism of youth!!! Too bad real life gets in the way of that as you go along and accumulate experience, and then by the time you grow up (age 50 or so is about the start of that) you become deeply jaded by the REALITY of what you have seen for all those years, and realize that it was just wishful thinking. You'll see, if you make it that far.
Meanwhile, consider the message contained in my signature, carefully and thoroughly. You'll see there aren't many other explanations that fit all the facts. You'll also see, by using the thought process contained in that quote, that this "mechanic"'s behavior demostrates a lack of trustworthiness, as a professional. (if it's just a friend helping you out, that's one thing; if it's a supposedly pro garage or shop, that's ENTIRELY a different matter) If it swims like a duck, walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it's .... what? You can't ignore the evidence in front of your face.
Fill your tank. Prove me wrong. I dare you.
Come back and let us know how it worked out, and then, what you find when you drop the tank. Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
In the end you gotta do what you gotta do. I remember being young and having to borrow tools and ask for help. I'm pushin' 40 and still ask for help. Seems like you feel your cool with your mechanic, ask if you could sit in and watch/help with the fuel pump install. Start with the basics and learn as you go and later in life you will save a lot of money. There are 2 guys over 40 at my work that can't even do an oil change or simple brake job....
You got a big earful from guys who want to help and I'm sure I speak on behalf of most of us, keep asking questions. Got picks of the beast or what to post up?
You got a big earful from guys who want to help and I'm sure I speak on behalf of most of us, keep asking questions. Got picks of the beast or what to post up? Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 305 8cylinder
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock Gears
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
In the end you gotta do what you gotta do. I remember being young and having to borrow tools and ask for help. I'm pushin' 40 and still ask for help. Seems like you feel your cool with your mechanic, ask if you could sit in and watch/help with the fuel pump install. Start with the basics and learn as you go and later in life you will save a lot of money. There are 2 guys over 40 at my work that can't even do an oil change or simple brake job.... You got a big earful from guys who want to help and I'm sure I speak on behalf of most of us, keep asking questions. Got picks of the beast or what to post up?
You got a big earful from guys who want to help and I'm sure I speak on behalf of most of us, keep asking questions. Got picks of the beast or what to post up?This is my third Camaro. I started with a 4th gen, a nice one, but as I was coming home one night on a Interstate a drunk hit me head on (about a 70/70 head on collision), then I got a third gen then sold it for another 3rd gen (current one) because it was in better condition. My current Camaro also got hit by a car (in my own drive way) due to someone running from the Police. He had no insurance and owned nothing so I got no money out of that, so my Camaro has a good sized dent and few scratches and no one wants to take the fault, lucky me.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, Ohio
Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
If it makes you feel any better my first car was a 79' Cutlass and the drivers side door didn't open. Opened the pass. side door first, not to let my date in first though. To let me in..............
I also thought I was cool and goosed it in the snow once on a corner and my back fender ate a dumpster.
. My friends where impressed!
I also thought I was cool and goosed it in the snow once on a corner and my back fender ate a dumpster.. My friends where impressed! Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Bad problem, need help please.
Shop around, $500+ is pretty much dealer cost.
Supply the parts and ask for $200 total on the labor.
My problem with you doing this is that you haven't been guaranteed it's the pump that's faulty, but then it's your money. The least you can do is ask for your old parts.
And, do post up when it's done.
If I was a betting man, I'd bet he won't let you sit in on the repair.
Supply the parts and ask for $200 total on the labor.
My problem with you doing this is that you haven't been guaranteed it's the pump that's faulty, but then it's your money. The least you can do is ask for your old parts.
And, do post up when it's done.
If I was a betting man, I'd bet he won't let you sit in on the repair.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 482
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Car: 1990 IROC-Z 1LE
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G92 3.23