Hi Guys,

Yep, it's true. Today, as we speak, my mechanic is installing the fourth Alternator on my '83 Camaro in the past 9 months.

At the end of March last year (2010) I started the car one morning and it wouldn't stop racing and on the way to my mechanic the engine got extremely hot and something was smoking by the time I got i t there, about 8 miles from home. I thought the car was a goner. He kept the car for diagnostics and called me later in the day to say the problem was the Alternator. I let out a sigh of relief, went and picked up the car and all was good until about 5 months later when the reading on the dash showed the charging amps was in the red zone (below 8 amps) so I took it back and he replaced that Alternator with another and again, all was well. About a month later, having the habit by this time of constantly monitoring the amp/battery gauge on the dash, I saw once again the Alternator was not charging. Back I went and, staying true to his 12-month warranty, my guy replaced the Alternator once again, except this time he decided to change to a different Alternator manufacturer.

This morning, on a cold, frigid day, I got in the car and, though the car started ok (the battery must have retained a full charge from the last time I drove it about a week ago), I could see the needle once again in the red zone below 8 amps. After driving a couple of miles and making a stop and attempting to start the car, the battery just barely turned over the engine and I drove it right away to the mechanic. After scratching his head he determined that, as strange as it might be, I needed yet another Alternator replacement.

At this time I await his call to come pick up the car.

Having said all this, what could possibly be the cause of all these Alternators failing in such a relatively short space of time when an Alternator should last, I presume, for many years? My mechanic checked everything he could on each visit: metered the battery, belts, etc. and, after metering the Alternator, simply stated that the Alternator was not charging and needed to be replaced

Any input appreciated that might give a clue as to what else he could look at that might be the cause of these premature Alternator failures. Thankfully these visits are, like I said, covered by his warranty but, I've gotten to where I dread getting in the car to start it for fear of yet another failed Alternator and the inconvenience, not just for myself but for my loyal and patient mechanic as well, that goes with it.

Thanks much!

Gene

 

since your car is a v belt motor is the belt coming lose? they usually hafta be tightened some times. thats odd tho that it keeps happening

 

Actually, while he was looking around diagnosing the mechanical and electrical aspects within the parameters of the Alternator, he did point to the belt with a comment, "the belt looks sort of loose" but that's about as far as he went with that thought, while I was there anyway. I expect, since he's the one to point this out, he would thoroughly look at the belt to determine if this was the culprit, or not. I should know whenever he notifies me that the job is done, either tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks for your reply and suggestion!

Gene

 

Just to throw an idea out there, is it the correct alternator for your car? I went through 3 of them on a different vehicle and it turns out the parts store gave me the wrong one the first go around. Then the times after, they just kept giving me the same wrong model as a replacement. Looked the same, bolted up the same, worked for a short while then nothing. Finally took it to the local electrical wiz and he said it was the wrong one.

 

Point well taken.

Just as we rely on our doctors for an accurate diagnosis of our medical condition with their recommendations of proper medications and treatments, most of us, I'm sure, have the same confidence in those we've learned to trust to keep our cherished "vintage' Camaros in good running order. I can only hope that throughout this history of recent Alternator changes my mechanic had supplied the correct information to his supplier and has obtained the correct part for my car.

That being said, my plan was to pass along to him a link to this thread, after a few responses had been posted, for information, such as in your reply, that might give him a clue as to a direction he might take that might help resolve this issue once and for all.

Yesterday I told my mechanic that it was ok for him to keep the car until today instead of trying to rush it out the same day since I had rolled into his shop without prior warning or an appointment. So, it's now the "next day" and I await his call letting me know when I can pick up the car. Until then, any more suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks all!

Gene

 

I went through that my my '93 Beretta GTZ. The alternator was just a pile of junk to begin with - I went through *9* of them in 3 years. The manufacturer apparently made the same alternator for like 10 cars and it wasn't up to the task of spinning as fast as my Quad4 was spinning. Bought a better one and never had another issue.

My advice - Buy a better alternator. You might try http://www.dbelectrical.com/

I've bought a few starters and alternators from them and have yet to have an issue with anything - They only sell brand new alternators, but usually at the same price you'd pay for some reman over-the-counter junk.

....oh yeah - And start changing you're own alternators - They're SUPER SUPER EASY - especially on a RWD car! The most basic of hand tools is usually all you need; especially on a V-belt setup.

 

I don't think you've yet said exactly what was failing on these alternators.
I think that would be a key point in determining how to troubleshoot the problem.

Common failures for alternators are diode burn-out, regulator failure, or bearing failure.

An intermittent short or a loose connection could possibly be causing failure of the electronics inside the alternator.
Sometimes feedback from other electric motors, such as a bad radiator fan motor can damage an alternator.

Most factory configurations have the main power output wire from the alternator going down to the main battery post on the starter. I would start investigating down there. Also make sure you have a good quality ground strap/connection between the engine, body, and negative post on the battery. High-strand welding cables make the best battery cables.
It is also a possibility that you have a bad battery with an intermittent internal short.
You might want to keep a close eye on things using a digital volt-meter.

 

Quick question:

Considering the specs on my 1983 Camaro:
Sport Coupe, Lg4, 5-Liter V8, 305 cid, 5-Speed Tranny, V Belt Motor, AC.

Should the Alternator be an 85 Amp or 78 Amp?

I checked around at a couple of local Auto Parts stores in my area and two of them specifically said the 85 Amp.

My mechanic says he's sure and is sticking with the 78 Amp which had been installed previously and he has ordered and will install tomorrow (Friday) morning.

Note:
The 8th character from the left in my VIN is "H".

Just wondering if this could be the reason for the early Alternator failures...or not.

Your answer and why please?

Thanks!

Gene

 

A power output rating that close is not going to make any difference.
The first symptom of having too low an output rating is low and dead batteries.

If you think your system is creating such a power draw as to exceed the capability of your alternator, then you should start looking for the draw, starting with checking your battery's health with a load tester. Shake the battery around and watch if the voltage changes significantly.

Keep in mind that the only two things drawing from your alternator that are not fused are your starter and your battery. Everything else should have a fuse or a fusable link.

 

Thanks for yours and everyone else's reply 305sbc.

Although I've been reassured that the battery (about 1 1/2 years old purchased from a AAA road service call) is in good health, and as I stated previously, I'll be passing this thread along to my mechanic to offer him the tips and suggestions you all have offered in the hopes a solution will be found that will finally put an end to this revolving door of too frequent Alternator replacements. Otherwise, my fear is each time I get in the car from this day forward will be: "is this yet another day the battery amp gauge reads in the red again and the car might not start?"

Thanks again guys and please, continue posting your tips and suggestions to this thread before I forward it to my mechanic later today after I pick up the car.

The latest question: Should the Alternator be an 85 Amp or 78 Amp?

Gene

 

I would advise you to go to a local parts store and have them do a load test on your battery. They will be able to (in most cases) give you a little print out with specific detail on the battery's health.

Honestly, it doesn't matter. That slight difference in output shouldn't make ANY difference. A side note, most modern alternators output anywhere from 105-140amps to power all the modern goodies. That includes, fuel injection, audio equipment, power accessories, modern lighting, etc. Are you running any aftermarket devices that are using the car's power (ie, CD player, aftermarket lighting, neons, etc)? I still think you need to get a better alternator.

Give the folks at DB Electrical a call and see what they advise - They're quite knowledgeable.