Hi guys. I need some help here. I bought a set of used roller rockers. I dont know what brand they are but they are 1.6 ratio. So I removed 2 OEM rockers and bolted down 2 Roller Rockers. Just out of curiosity, I tried to put the valve cover on and it wouldnt go down. I inspected the clearances and sure enough, the rockers body is wider than the OEM. The tubes that support the valve covers bolts are too big. Has anyone ever ran into this problem? If so what did you do to make the valve cover install properly
Clearanceissue-valvecover.jpg?t=1294283709


Clearanceissue-valvecover6.jpg?t=1294284028
Clearanceissue-valvecover4.jpg?t=1294284028

Clearanceissue-valvecover2.jpg?t=1294284280
Any advice anyone?

 

You can grind the rocker enough for clearance or buy aftermarket valve covers which may allow enough room for clearance or sell those rockers any buy some Comp Cams Pro Magnum (old name) rockers.

Don't expect to fit inexpensive, large body aluminum rockers under stock valve covers.

 

What about grinding down the flanges on the tube for the bolts? Also the skirt for the PCV valve seems a bit large. If I were to smash together or cut out the sides, will that affect anything?

 

If not you can get these.

http://www.ansenusa.com/shopexd.asp?id=421

 

That would be a waste of money gp90gta. My valve covers are centerbolt. My heads are centerbolt only. Plus I wouldnt like to make people think that I have a 383 stroker when all i got is a 350.

 

Scroll down I'm talking about the spacers.

 

ill check it out when I get home. I'm on the blackberry (cell phone) right now.

 

You can modify them however you see fit. Just make sure you have an extra set of valve covers just in case. You could always cut the bolt guides out completely however the bolts may still contact the rockers. Give it a go and let us know if it works out.

 

Tomorrow Im gonna pull off the driverside cover and grind down the sides of the bolt guides. Then Ill do the test and let you guys know how it turns out.

 

AHHh. "I see" said the blind man. Well that is a good idea, but then agian I would have to buy a set of outer bolt covers. I basically got these rockers for free after buying a High flow edelbrock base with superram runners. As a added gift, my buddy said Merry Christmas and handed over a grocery bag. I opened it up and WOW, a set of aluminum rockers along with a now extincted EGR Sensor for only $250. So turned around and sold the superram runners here in the ad board for $150. WHAT A BARGAIN. I pretty much got a High Flow Base and roller rockers for $100!!!!!! What a steal!!!! So now that Im out of money, I wanna spend as little as possible. But like I said, Im gonna grind down the bolt guide edges and see how it works out. Thanks for the advice though

 

Ok guys. i grinded down the bolt guides so that it can slide down but I then encountered a new issue, the PCV baffles on the inside of the cover. Do I really need this baffle or can I just cut it out? I bent the skits inward but the body is still too wide.
IMG00270-20110106-1343.jpg?t=1294365151
You can see where I shaved the bolt guides down.
IMG00269-20110106-1343.jpg?t=1294365151

 

But now I got another problem. As I adjusted the valve lash with the engine on, the bolt and locking nut where still protruding very high. So I think I still need tall covers. But here is the catch, when the I turn 3/4 after 0 lash (after the ticking is gone), I can literally loosen the bolt with my fingers. Am I adjusting the rockers wrong?

 

So these are the ones that you refered me to right ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1302-1 )?


What kind of valve covers do you have? Tall or the stock shorties?

 

May end up sucking too much oil into the intake.
Would need a catch can on PCV line if you did

And you were going to bin them
"I should toss these runners. I dont need em. To me they are trash."

Lucky someone told you they were worth $$$

 

Catch can? I think Im just gonna sell them. It seems to complicated to add more unneccesary items and mods that I dont need.

As for the Superram runners, yup. I was gonna dump them becuase I did a search for a price and I found nothing. So since there was no market, I thought that there was no value in them until a member told me otherwise.

 

Yes. Although they may cost a little more, they're far superior to aluminum rockers.

Any tall aftermarket valve cover may also solve your clearance issues.

 

just save up and get a used set of tall valve covers the roller rockers are good for atleast 5-10 hp depending on ratio i belive. u should be able to pic up a used set of nice covers for around 50-60 bucks.. get some rubber gaskets for like 20 and ur all set..

 

I've never seen a IROC with tall valvecovers. I tried looking for one that looks OEM with the PVC fitting, and the passengerside plumbing that goes from the cover to trottlebody. No luck. Do you have tall valve covers guys? If so, can I see a picture of them?

 

I have tall valve covers on my BBC but mainly because of the stud girdles across the tops of the rockers.

Check out Skip White on Ebay. He has fantastic prices on nice fabricated aluminum valve covers.

This is what you want except this set has no provisions for a PCV system.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-F...Q5fAccessories

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12497985/
Clear my CC Pro Magnums fine
Pass side cover has two holes like stock cover

 

I was looking at those earlier. Those are the ones that I referred to as no holes for the PVC valve.

 

Now those are nice!!!1 But then for that $250 price, Ide rather pay for the proper rockers and still keep my OEM valve covers. Still thanks for the help.

 

They have holes; 2 in one cover and 1 in the other
You just install what you want; PCV valve , breathers ,filler cap , blanking plug, etc
Your choice

 

There is a thread on here somewhere, I dont have it saved anymore, that showed where somebody modified his valve covers to work. I started to do the same thing but I just bought some scorpions that fit under the covers.

Search around on here and you should be able to find it. He was able to keep the bolt tubes in, just cut out half of the support. Then he crimped the baffle some.

Having said that, Id buy a set of valve covers unless you just want the stock look.

 

Your going to need tall valve covers..... to clear the rocker arms.

 

Well I would LOVE to keep the stock look. But it is what it is and for now Im just gonna sit on these roller rockers and see what happens down the road. My options are clear, either buy a pair of tall covers, or buy a new set of narrow roller rockers such as the Scorpions or Comp Magnums. Ohh well. Thanks for the help guys.

 

One quick question guys. When I had adjusted the 0 lash with the engine off and the lifter at the base of lobe slope, I gave the rocker bolt 3/4 turn. But out of curiosity, I twisted the bolt counter clockwise with my fingers and it came off with ease. I also adjusted the roller rocker with the engine on and listened till the tick was gone. Once the tick is gone, I turned 3/4 turn. I then turned off the engine and tried to loosen up the rocker bolt with my fingers and sure enough, it unscrewed. Is this normal for roller rocker bolts after adjusting the lash? Or am I adjusting the lash incorrectly?

 

Did you tighten the locking grub screw in the center of polylock?

 

No I didnt. I ask because Ive seen other pictures of the bolt all the way down while mine stick out so much. You see, with my OEM stamped rockers, as soon as the bolt contacts the rocker, the rocker plunges down so much that the valve spring compresses a lot before I find 0 lash while in the roller rocker case, when I begin to bolt it down, it only pushes down the spring slightly until 0 lash. Does it make sense what Im saying? If you need me to, I can shoot some video and post it up tomorrow. In other words, the OEM rocker moves down about 3/4 inch when 0 lash is found, while the roller rocker moves down about 1/4 - 1/2 inch when 0 lash is found. I bet I got a lot of people confused.

 

Then you have done nothing to lock the polylock in place after adjustment.

Have you got the fulcrum ( pivot ) of the rocker the correct way around?.
If pivot upside down poly lock will sit high

Confused the hell out of me

 

Ill put up a video to show what I meant.

 

Not always.

 

So which way should the pivot be?

Sorry for confusing you vettoz. Damb camera broke. Gonna try to get my sisters camera to take video of the height of the rockers pushing down on the spring

 

vetteoz, I did a drawing of the 0 lash that I was trying to explain. The OEM stamped rocker, at 0 lash compresses the valve spring more than the Roller Rocker. Does it make sense now? So my question is, am I adjusting the 0 lash incorrectly according to the difference in spring compression of the 2 rocker arms?
rockereditline.jpg?t=1294603421

 

By the way, I found out the type of roller rocker I have. they are Summit Racing Brand ( SUM-G6906 ).

 

Flat side up.
I would also verify pushrod length.

The "inclination" of the new rocker arm can wary from stock, once everything is set for correct valvetrain geometry.
Wery helpful http://www.compcams.com/Pages/417/va...-geometry.aspx

 

Doing something wrong
Spring should not compress
When adjusting ,once the rocker touches the top of valve stem it should then push the pushrod down into the lifter
( setting lash ).
Spring should not move unless you have bottomed the lifter out by over tightening
( no more travel left in lifter plunger )

 

OK. So then with the roller rockers, I was adjusting them correctly. My method of setting lash with oem stamped is by ear with engine on. I would listen for the tapping. Once tapping is gone after turning the bolt, I would then go 3/4 turn. As for the roller rockers, now I know that it takes very little to adjust with the engine on. Its all clear to me now. Thanks guy. Thanks vetteoz .